Compilation pic of some goodies for Roo

[TrueBlue]

The lightweight oil's for winter roving, and there's a tiny leak. Note the Blackstone container

[James614]

Woo! I'm not the only one who uses ToughGaurd oil filters!

[quicklook]

i use wix filters on everything except fords and they get motorcraft filter.

[TrueBlue]

Please note that the oil went in the car and the beer went in me, not the other way around.

[AWD_addict]

How do you like that Valvoline 75W90?
I used that stuff in my trans w/synchro issues and it was terrible. Switched to Redline and it shifts much better.

[TrueBlue]

LOL, it went back the store, along with the air filter. PO had actually kept up on maintenance - it was all fresh and new! Odd to not worry about that.

[entirelyturbo]

Except for the beer, there's not much in there I would consider "goodies."

Only use Mobil 1 if you want to leak/burn oil. And no, the STP won't help.

I use OEM filters because of my discount , but even if I were stuck with aftermarket, Fram would be the last thing I would use, after all the stories I've heard about them.

And the Haynes manual is a little help, but not much. So much of the info in there is so wrong I'm surprised they haven't incurred a lawsuit.

[corsair]

I have to agree about the M1, unless you wanna replace all your seals you should stick with what your car has been run on.

[TrueBlue]

Interesting. I'd be curious to hear why.

Haynes manuals are only guidebooks. You should read the one for 1G DSMs, or the BMW 2002

[entirelyturbo]

First off, I recommend synthetic oil only if you're racing. And I'm not talking about a quick WOT sprint down a public road. I'm talking on a track, running for an hour or more. Only then does conventional oil become hot enough that it begins to break down, thus warranting the use of synthetic oil.

Second, synthetic is slicker and seeps through old seals more easily.

Third, don't change brands of oil. Each brand of oil has its own particular additives that adhere to the various parts of the engine over time. Switching brands means the old additives get washed away, and the new ones must take awhile to reform. That adds to the leakage problem, and, if you keep your car long enough, could lead to slightly accelerated engine wear. Now, don't misunderstand me. When I say switching brands can wear the engine out faster, I mean that if the engine would make it to 1 million miles by running the same oil the whole time, then switching it might make it last 800,000 miles. Since almost nobody puts that many miles on one car, nobody ever really notices a difference in engine performance if they switch oils.

This is straight from Irv Gordon, the man who got 2 million miles out of his Volvo P1800.

I understand if you just bought the car with a lot of miles on it, and don't have a thorough history on what brand of oil was used before. My own recommendation would be that if you have already put Mobil 1 in it, just switch to regular Mobil dino oil and run that for the rest of the time you have the car.

In my opinion, that's the best way to ensure you're treating your engine right without being like OCD about it.

[Legacy777]

There are definitely reasons and advantages to running synthetic oils. Cold start up is one of them. It also depends on how good the oil's base stock & additive package is too. Conventional oil is more or less the same, assuming the same grade base stock. The additive package is where things can change as well.

[TrueBlue]

Well, without getting into an oil debate, I'll just say that the PO ran synthetic in it already, I found a half-empty bottle in the trunk. (I do know about the seals on older cars, one of mine is forty years old and my last car made it to 274K before the body rotted out).

The car will be run mainly in a Buffalo winter, which is why I stick to the lightweight synthetics. Lugging and cold starts take their toll.

I've also heard the stories about Fram filters.

A website entitled "Oil Filters Revealed" [4] has created some controversy about Honeywell's use of paper oil filter media and cardboard internal end caps in Fram oil filters. In this study, multiple oil filters were dissected and compared. The study determined that competitors in the same price range use different materials, such as metal or plastic for endcaps, and blended or synthetic filter media. While the lower cost materials create concerns of perceived quality, no quantified performance or durability comparisons have been made.

To wit, the car with 274,000 ran Fram year-round, from 95°F to -15°F, on 4000 mile M1 oil changes.

Note: Not to debate, as I know YMMV. Thanks for your insight guys.