Hard starting
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Hard starting
My sons 93 non turbo has a hard starting problem. When starting it just cranks, hit the trottle it tries to start but wont. it will finally start but idles really low, hit the throttle it tries to die. He drives it to school and it does the same thing after sitting all day. It has 4 codes 12 , 21, 22 , 32. I'm going to get an O2 sensor and water temp sensor. Do you think either of these is the reason for the hard starting? Thanks!
Coolant temp sensor would be my first recommendation on replacing.
Josh
surrealmirage.com/subaru
1990 Legacy (AWD, 6MT, & EJ22T Swap)
2020 Outback Limted XT
If you need to get a hold of me please email me rather then pm
surrealmirage.com/subaru
1990 Legacy (AWD, 6MT, & EJ22T Swap)
2020 Outback Limted XT
If you need to get a hold of me please email me rather then pm
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Yes it can really play a lot of havoc on starting.
Josh
surrealmirage.com/subaru
1990 Legacy (AWD, 6MT, & EJ22T Swap)
2020 Outback Limted XT
If you need to get a hold of me please email me rather then pm
surrealmirage.com/subaru
1990 Legacy (AWD, 6MT, & EJ22T Swap)
2020 Outback Limted XT
If you need to get a hold of me please email me rather then pm
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Sounds like fuel pump. I had a legacy that would only start if you gave it gas when you started it and then revved it a lot for a minute. Then I parked it for 2 years and it wouldn't start at all after that. I replaced the fuel pump and sending units with junkyard parts and it started right up and didnt' need to push the gas in either.
The pump is really easy to get to although do not try to take the tank off like I did before I found the little removable plate cover under the carpet. I found that access hole after removing the driveline, the crossmember brace thing, the rear diff and the tank. Then I spotted the access holes. So much dirt in my eyes for nothing.
The pump is really easy to get to although do not try to take the tank off like I did before I found the little removable plate cover under the carpet. I found that access hole after removing the driveline, the crossmember brace thing, the rear diff and the tank. Then I spotted the access holes. So much dirt in my eyes for nothing.
98 Metro Hatch Daily Driver :)
91 SS EJ20G Engine/Tranny/Diff Swap Build Thread Here
"Your testes are close to your bottom but you still play with them all the time." Jeremy Clarkson
91 SS EJ20G Engine/Tranny/Diff Swap Build Thread Here
"Your testes are close to your bottom but you still play with them all the time." Jeremy Clarkson
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I've changed fuel and air filter. The fuel economy is not the biggest issue though, it's the hard starting. Has anyone replaced an ECM?
I've had one go bad on a Cutlass I use to own and it wouldn't start at all. I know that they can give false reading if they are faulty. According to the test I've done there should be 3-4 volts at terminal #5 of connector B56 of the ECM. This is checking the signal to the knock sensor. If 3-4 volts is not present your to check terminals for poor contacts or replace ECM. The harness goes in tight and wire seem tight in connector. If anyone needs any of this info I can scan it. It came from ondemand5 which is Mitchel manuals on line. Let me know if you've had ECM problems. Thanks!
I've had one go bad on a Cutlass I use to own and it wouldn't start at all. I know that they can give false reading if they are faulty. According to the test I've done there should be 3-4 volts at terminal #5 of connector B56 of the ECM. This is checking the signal to the knock sensor. If 3-4 volts is not present your to check terminals for poor contacts or replace ECM. The harness goes in tight and wire seem tight in connector. If anyone needs any of this info I can scan it. It came from ondemand5 which is Mitchel manuals on line. Let me know if you've had ECM problems. Thanks!
Even if the knock sensor is a issue I dont see it causing a hard starting issue. If you try premium technically it should work fine. Alot of times the knock sensor cracks. Ill bet if you check your's it will be cracked as well. It just just under the intake manifold, just remove the engine cover.
This is a crappy pic, but maybe a good suggestion it is usually where you see the bolt, he just relocated it( i might try that).
http://img1.photobucket.com/albums/0903 ... r_copy.jpg
This is a crappy pic, but maybe a good suggestion it is usually where you see the bolt, he just relocated it( i might try that).
http://img1.photobucket.com/albums/0903 ... r_copy.jpg
1993 Subaru Legacy L AWD Wagon R.I.P
1994 Subaru Legacy SS R.I.P :(
2004 Nissan Titan LE 4X4
2007 Subaru Legacy GT :)
1994 Subaru Legacy SS R.I.P :(
2004 Nissan Titan LE 4X4
2007 Subaru Legacy GT :)
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Yea I know were it is located. I didn't say it was bad that is one of the codes though. I think something is wrong with the ECM giving a false reading that somthing is wrong with the sensor. I've got more testing to do before I buy anything. I will not buy a new ECM with the prices I've seen. If it is going to be anywere near $500 dollars to fix it it will go bye bye.
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Here is the video link. Picture sucks it was dark. Don't even know if this will help anyone help me. [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OrvZ4on0uYUrl][/url]
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Try this one.First one wont work.[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OrvZ4on0 ... annel_page]][/url]
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Try this one.First one wont work.[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OrvZ4on0 ... annel_page]
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Try this one.First one wont work.[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OrvZ4on0 ... annel_page]