rebiulding my ej22t w/ wisco's.. I have a question
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rebiulding my ej22t w/ wisco's.. I have a question
hello,
So i have taken apart my ej22t block, I am now looking into geting wisco pistons and eagle rods? the wiseco pistons ONLY come in .020 over and .040 over, I am just looking to toss in the wisecos and rods with new acl race bearings. With boreing the engine over for the wiseco's am geting into serious mathmatical engine biulding process? Or should it run just fine???
So i have taken apart my ej22t block, I am now looking into geting wisco pistons and eagle rods? the wiseco pistons ONLY come in .020 over and .040 over, I am just looking to toss in the wisecos and rods with new acl race bearings. With boreing the engine over for the wiseco's am geting into serious mathmatical engine biulding process? Or should it run just fine???
If you go with a .020 or .040 over piston you will need to get a machine shop bore and hone your block. You won't need to do the math if you don't want to.
Most pistons should come with a spec card that lists the reccomended bore size to provide to your machine shop.
The safest way is to provide your pistons to the shop and let them do the measuring.
This is all assuming your block is still standerd sized.
Most pistons should come with a spec card that lists the reccomended bore size to provide to your machine shop.
The safest way is to provide your pistons to the shop and let them do the measuring.
This is all assuming your block is still standerd sized.
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'93 Pure White SS EJ20G slanty intercooled, SIDESWIPED! In stasis.
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PhyrraM wrote:If you go with a .020 or .040 over piston you will need to get a machine shop bore and hone your block. You won't need to do the math if you don't want to.
Most pistons should come with a spec card that lists the reccomended bore size to provide to your machine shop.
The safest way is to provide your pistons to the shop and let them do the measuring.
This is all assuming your block is still standard sized.
yep hes right on. i toke my block and my wiseco pistons (.20) to a shop. told them to bore the block the the spec's of these pistons. plus i had them hot tank the block to get it clean. total cost was around i think $120. but if i remember correctly it was pretty inexpensive.
Andy
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94 L n/a 5spd, Rip
92 ss burgundy, weekend toy - owner since 2006
mods: too much to list, lost track after $16,000
91 ss champagne - Rip
93 L wagon - Sold (in the family)
97 OBW LTD - Sold (in the family)
88 Leon GL Hatchback - DD
ok, that's great to know, i will just give the pistons and the block to the machine shop and tell them to make it fit ...
But as far as supporting mods to make these pistons work.. is there a requirement
Im running a wrx turbo wrx inter cooler manual boost controler, fcd and a full open exhaust system
Will i need to upgrade the fuel injectors to handle the extra displacement???
and how high can i turn the boost up safely with the wiseco's and having it bored out thanks
But as far as supporting mods to make these pistons work.. is there a requirement
Im running a wrx turbo wrx inter cooler manual boost controler, fcd and a full open exhaust system
Will i need to upgrade the fuel injectors to handle the extra displacement???
and how high can i turn the boost up safely with the wiseco's and having it bored out thanks
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No one has mentioned this yet......
The block needs to be COMPLETELY dissassembled, and then you need to re-assemble with new bearings.... Not a bad thing at all, just that it adds time and money.
The block needs to be COMPLETELY dissassembled, and then you need to re-assemble with new bearings.... Not a bad thing at all, just that it adds time and money.
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1990 wagon, EJ25 12.3 @ 116.5 FAST Family wagon getting new motor soon
1992 wagon, wifes daily, high compression
1992 Touring wagon, should I keep it?
What is your goal with this rebuild?
Are you looking to turn up the boost? If you're looking to go pretty much above 10-12 psi, you need more fuel. If you're not boosting above 10-12 psi you should be fine with the stock injectors.
Are you looking to turn up the boost? If you're looking to go pretty much above 10-12 psi, you need more fuel. If you're not boosting above 10-12 psi you should be fine with the stock injectors.
Josh
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1990 Legacy (AWD, 6MT, & EJ22T Swap)
2020 Outback Limted XT
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surrealmirage.com/subaru
1990 Legacy (AWD, 6MT, & EJ22T Swap)
2020 Outback Limted XT
If you need to get a hold of me please email me rather then pm
T-lego. I'm kinda in the same boat as you right now as I just disassembled my block last night and was considering the same thing about the wisecos... I passed on the idea of wisecos because I'm not really ready to completely build this motor yet (for the what it is used for as well as cost). My question just to help out... Does anyone know if the wisecos are taller than the oem pistons? If not, doesn't this cause the compression to be lowered by the added volume of the cylinder by boring? Just asking as op was curious about "mathmatical engine biulding process", as this may or may not be something to factor in.
ya, Im looking to crank the boost up to like 20 psi what ever my wrx turbo and boost controller will push and with an open exhaust system. Im looking to make this my reliable daily driver as well.
so i need more fuel than, well i have a inline aftermarket FPR i plan on bolting in. And m looking at some injectors what sized do you recommend 440cc etc and what fuel rails will they fit in. and will the stock ecu work with them or would i have to get a engine management system?
so i need more fuel than, well i have a inline aftermarket FPR i plan on bolting in. And m looking at some injectors what sized do you recommend 440cc etc and what fuel rails will they fit in. and will the stock ecu work with them or would i have to get a engine management system?
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I'm about to order some Wisecos for my EJ22T build too. As far as I can tell from Wiseco's info, they're basically "stock replacement" in configuration, meaning the compression ratio shouldn't change...besides, of course, the very slight bump in compression from increasing the displacement.
As far as being able to run more boost...that's more a function of ignition timing, fuel management, valve timing, and compression ratio. Forged pistons do NADA to prevent detonation, but rather are far less likely to break if detonation does occur, and can also handle high RPM's better.
As far as being able to run more boost...that's more a function of ignition timing, fuel management, valve timing, and compression ratio. Forged pistons do NADA to prevent detonation, but rather are far less likely to break if detonation does occur, and can also handle high RPM's better.
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-And more!
That's why I asked......to properly run anything beyond stock injectors you need good enginemanagement. Running 20 psi on a WRX turbo is extremely inefficient. Without having the turbo maps in front of me, I can't say for sure, but I would imagine, somewhere around the 14-16 psi is probably all you can efficiently get from that turbo. The 440's would probably work around the 14 psi range. Anything more, I'd recommend 550's at the minimum.
But as I mentioned, the big issue is engine management, you have got to have a good engine management solution to put all those pieces together.
But as I mentioned, the big issue is engine management, you have got to have a good engine management solution to put all those pieces together.
Josh
surrealmirage.com/subaru
1990 Legacy (AWD, 6MT, & EJ22T Swap)
2020 Outback Limted XT
If you need to get a hold of me please email me rather then pm
surrealmirage.com/subaru
1990 Legacy (AWD, 6MT, & EJ22T Swap)
2020 Outback Limted XT
If you need to get a hold of me please email me rather then pm
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I am into the same thing BUt With 8.5-1 C/R & probaly gonna run 12 psi or better on the boost you might have problems with detonation
Thus depending on grade of fuel you run As I said I am at a holding patern waiting for Wisco to get back to me I also have the machine shop working with JE pistons for they design pistons for turbo bikes for Je if you get awsers Please Let me know
JAy
Thus depending on grade of fuel you run As I said I am at a holding patern waiting for Wisco to get back to me I also have the machine shop working with JE pistons for they design pistons for turbo bikes for Je if you get awsers Please Let me know
JAy
What ever you do, don't have the bores machined to Wiseco's recommendation. It WILL be louder than what you will be happy with and may cause issues with your knock sensor. My last motor was bored only to .028 P-W which was considerably tighter than what I was told to use (and warned against LOL). Piston slap was very minimal only on cold start for about 30 seconds and the motor was nearly stock quiet.
Compared to the previous motor that I followed Wiseco's advice and ended up around 040 P-W - that was obnoxious! Granted the slap went away after about 2 minutes but it was noisier all around and was constantly screwing with the knock sensor.
I ran both motors with 400-500+ HP capable turbos, 9:1 CR, and 20psi boost targets as a minimum.
Compared to the previous motor that I followed Wiseco's advice and ended up around 040 P-W - that was obnoxious! Granted the slap went away after about 2 minutes but it was noisier all around and was constantly screwing with the knock sensor.
I ran both motors with 400-500+ HP capable turbos, 9:1 CR, and 20psi boost targets as a minimum.