The SLODRIVE '92 SS Build (Now with Dyno Sheet!)

GodSquadMandrake · Post by **GodSquadMandrake** » Wed Mar 11, 2009 3:15 pm

I've been trying to think up a solution for my inlet boot too. Nice find! So that floppy dong on the 90' bend is for the IAC? And the big nurple on the other end is for the recirculator valve?

Why didn't you put the inner timing belt cover on the block?

Whats wrong with the plastic gears? I was going to use those as they are a lot lighter.

It's looking good man! You are keeping me highly motivated for my engine. I'm still hunting down a 06-07 WRX intercooler, and a perfect power 6. I got the wideband, fuel pump, and fuel injectors.

dropdfocus · Post by **dropdfocus** » Wed Mar 11, 2009 3:22 pm

Are the JDM valve springs and solid buckets a shared Subaru item on USDM models do I have to switch over shimmed buckets if I want to put new valvetrain components in?

I'm sure the stuff that is currently installed on my EJ20G heads is fine, but new stuff makes me feel better about not having to tear it back apart in the future due to faulty "used" pieces.

SLODRIVE · Post by **SLODRIVE** » Fri Mar 13, 2009 8:11 pm

GodSquadMandrake wrote:I've been trying to think up a solution for my inlet boot too. Nice find! So that floppy dong on the 90' bend is for the IAC? And the big nurple on the other end is for the recirculator valve?

Why didn't you put the inner timing belt cover on the block?

Whats wrong with the plastic gears? I was going to use those as they are a lot lighter.

You are correct about the nipples, see below.

The inner TB cover is in place...it was only removed in that picture so I could get to the oil feed line on the front of the head.

I have nothing against the plastic timing gears...You see, I already HAVE these metal gears. Besides, I assume the metal gears are tougher, and I'm okay with that.

Here's the inlet shoved through the intake...it BARELY fit and was a total PITA, but it's in. The IAC and breather lines on the intake plugged right in.

The other end may take a bit more thinking. We'll see...

Intake bolted into the engine. The inlet was a tight fit here too, as it lays across the coolant pipe for the overflow tank. Still fits though.

Here's what I came up with...the BPV plugged in after sleeving it with a chunk of hose. The PCV looks funky, but it clears the turbo outlet and the throttle linkage.

And...with the turbo mocked up again.

I think it's almost time to pull the Legacy back into the garage...

GodSquadMandrake · Post by **GodSquadMandrake** » Fri Mar 13, 2009 9:47 pm

Wow that is a very clean intake setup. It looks a lot different than mine. I think you're using a lot more of the EJ20H stuff than I will be. What sort of intercooler are you going to use? I plan on just using the 06-07 and they have a nifty flange for the recirculator valve that makes it a lot easier than the plastic EJ22 one.

beatersubi · Post by **beatersubi** » Sat Mar 14, 2009 8:59 am

Nice pics. Keep 'em comin'.

Nice build too, BTW.

dropdfocus · Post by **dropdfocus** » Mon Mar 16, 2009 2:36 pm

Right click, Save As: Right click, Save As: Right click, Save As: Right click, Save As: Right click, Save As: Right click, Save As: (well, you get the point)

Thanks for the pics so far!!!!!

SLODRIVE · Post by **SLODRIVE** » Fri Mar 20, 2009 11:37 pm

Alright, I've had a steady flow of parts come in the mail, so I'm making more progress...

For the intercooler Y-pipe, I used some Ebay thing that claimed it would work on the '06-'07 style...wrong! I should have searched this one out better, but nonetheless I trimmed it and made it work with a molded radiator hose, but I'm not sure how long it'll last. If nothing else, both pipes it clamps to are rigidly mounted, and I'll be running low boost at first. I may try to find the right thing in silicone later, but for now...it fits.

My ghetto BPV adapter clears the IAC nicely...

I also test-fitted the NGK wires...the lengths seem to be OK.
A also got a washable filter from Summit for $22, now there's a complete intake tract!

GodSquadMandrake · Post by **GodSquadMandrake** » Sat Mar 21, 2009 8:13 am

Sweet your engine is almost there!

I wonder if anyone makes a Y-pipe for the 06-07 intercooler? I have yet to see it. The 02-05 Y-pipes can be modded pretty easily though but why spend $100 on something and then have it not fit?

You're going to get more heatsoak from that metal Y-pipe you have as opposed to going with a silicone one. Can you wrap them with heatshielding foil?
Those are some nice clamps, did they come with the kit?

GodSquadMandrake · Post by **GodSquadMandrake** » Sat Mar 21, 2009 8:14 am

Question: What ECU are you going to use?

dropdfocus · Post by **dropdfocus** » Sat Mar 21, 2009 8:52 am

I ran into the very same issue when looking for the aftermarket Y-connector setup for my '06-'07 TMIC. Mine is likely from the exact same place you got yours from on eBay. I managed to get the short connector to just barely work, but if it was 1" longer it would be just fine to make the transition without a problem.

SLODRIVE · Post by **SLODRIVE** » Fri Mar 27, 2009 1:44 am

GodSquadMandrake wrote:I wonder if anyone makes a Y-pipe for the 06-07 intercooler? I have yet to see it. The 02-05 Y-pipes can be modded pretty easily though but why spend $100 on something and then have it not fit?

You're going to get more heatsoak from that metal Y-pipe you have as opposed to going with a silicone one. Can you wrap them with heatshielding foil?
Those are some nice clamps, did they come with the kit?

Samco makes pipes for the '06-07, but they still need to be modded at the turbo end. Not only that, but all the silicone pipes I saw were over $100...the metal Y-pipe I used was about $60 shipped. I may shield it from the exhaust, but I may have other plans for intercooling later on anyways.

God SquadMandrake wrote:Question: What ECU are you going to use?

I haven't decided yet, but it'll be a piggyback...either the PP6, E-Manage Ultimate or the AEM FIC. I'm currently researching the pros/cons of each.

In the meantime...
My next project was the power steering pump. This was my first time rebuilding one, but it was surprisingly easy. The rebuild kit (34419AA030) didn't come with a new bearing or an o-ring for where the reservoir mounts, but the local NAPA had those no problem.

I used the reservoir from the EJ20H on the EJ22T pump. It's a very cool finned aluminum unit...

...and it clears the intake perfectly. W00t!

Another issue that popped up was the coil bracket I had made...once the I/C was on, it was obvious that the coil sat too high and would probably hit the hood.

I dug up some 1/4" rod, fired up the Millermatic again, and...

Nutty, huh? It looks like it'll work better though. What do you think?

PhyrraM · Post by **PhyrraM** » Fri Mar 27, 2009 2:14 am

Very nice so far.

I like the coil mount.

beatersubi · Post by **beatersubi** » Fri Mar 27, 2009 5:07 pm

Nutty? Yeah. Nicely fabbed, though.
All those lines accross the top of the manifold are pretty inconvenient, yeah?

GodSquadMandrake · Post by **GodSquadMandrake** » Fri Mar 27, 2009 9:54 pm

No way! Are you freaking kidding me?! I didn't think it was possible to have the reservoir on top of the pump AND have the under the manifold turbo inlet like that. That's freaking slick and your motor looks OEM+ as hell. Very nice. The EJ22T reservoir is wider and won't clear the inlet will it?

Hey how big is the biggest nipple on that turbo inlet? I'm looking at getting a Mann Provent 200 air/oil separator (catch can) and it's got 1" nipples on it. So I was thinking I could run a piece of 1" silicone tubing from the catch can to the turbo inlet and have some nice vacuum going through my crankcase and catch can. I blocked off the vent on top of the block. All I have is the one that goes from inside the flywheel area to the top of the motor, and one on each head. That should be enough though because a lot of subie motors only have those. EJ22's were ridiculous with it though. You have two on each head plus two on the block. Anyway I know you have your breather hooked up to that little tube on the inlet but I think there is another metal nipple that it supposed to be for your recird valve and that one would be perfect for me since I am using an atmosperic BOV anyway.

I looked into different piggybacks too. I liked what I heard about PP6 the best. It seems to have fully configurability for fuel and ignition, like an actual map you modify not just +1/-1 or whatever an Apexi SAFC does. It also can use wideband input, and you can configure a MAP sensor in addition to or in replacement of the MAF sensor.
There wasn't too much info about E-manage ultimate on Nasioc but the people who used it mostly had WRX's and they were saying it responded TOO SLOWLY and the processor was slower than the stock ECU's. So the stock ECU would respond to events before the emanage would and then the emanage would screw it all up by sendng some false signals to the ECU and pretty soon your motor blows because it put the ECU into some loop that leaned out the fuel or caused it to detonate. I think a lot of that has to do with the 'learning' functions of new ECU's though. Our old Hitachi ECU doesn't learn or adjust that quickly so it shouldn't have the same problems. Most of the WRX guys say just get a reflash but that isn't an option for us. So I don't know I just like the PP6 because it seems to have a lot more support especially from Rallitek and it seems to be a lot easier to plug and play.

advansti · Post by **advansti** » Sun Mar 29, 2009 12:40 am

I would have to say nice built and documentation. I wish that I had the patience to trace my build up the way you have. I seem to battle my self proclaimed ADD.

Doug as far as the EJ22T res., no it doesn't fit. The return nipple sits right where the turbo inlet curves under the manifold. So either you have to source a Phase 1.5 pump with the top return or run a '00 Legacy or GD divorced pump/reservoir. If you go with the later in USDM parts make sure to get the lines also. The fittings line line up perfect at the front sub-frame/up-pipe area. Non turbo lines will need to be bent at the pump to run over the inlet tube like I did. So I'd say it may be worth the extra $$ to get Turbo parts.

The largest port is right around 1 1/16", next largest are 5/8". I'm actually modifying my own oil separator/catch can. Using these links as reference.
http://www.crawfordperformance.com/docs/
Take a look at their routing on the air/oil separator

Now back on topic. Heads up on the throttle cable routing. After having to go the same route as you in flipping the TB, you'll find that you end up 1-1.5" short on the throttle cable. Also the tab for the cable keeper on the bell needs to bent up. I was lucky enough to find another cable stop to get the detent 1" closer to the TB.

I have had no issues with my PP6 thus far. I'm waiting on the next tune though since my change to a TDo5-18g and the EJ20K manifold. Waiting on bigger injectors and a wideband 02...money.

GodSquadMandrake · Post by **GodSquadMandrake** » Sun Mar 29, 2009 12:56 pm

Sweet. I'll have to start trying to source one of those phase 1.5 pumps or probably just the EJ20H reservoir like Slodrive has, I like that setup. Is the EJ20H the same as a phase 1.5 pump?

You should make a thread and post up those pics of your catch can setup and lines once you get it all done.

Thanks for the tips advansti!

GodSquadMandrake · Post by **GodSquadMandrake** » Sun Mar 29, 2009 1:08 pm

Ok I am totally whoring this thread but it's for the good of Subarus worldwide.

This PDF has really nice visuals explaining how to hook up the catch can:
http://www.crawfordperformance.com/docs ... n_1.12.pdf

I think that's the same design breather I am wanting to go with but I don't understand why they have a Y coming off the crankcase breather, maybe just because the Y comes stock?

The only thing that's different is the EJ22 has 3 more breather lines! I plugged the front crankcase breather and the EJ20G heads only have 1 breather on each so it's essentially the same as that guide.

I was thinking instead of using the crossover pipe I wanted to just run some silicone lines from each head breather into a brass Y fitting and have that feed into the catch can. There's nothing wrong with the crossover pipe but I don't have one and this will look cleaner because the lines can be routed somewhere other than the top of the engine.

I guess the only problem would be the Mann Provent 200 only has 1 inlet on it so I would have to join all those lines together, no problem it just means more fittings.

advansti · Post by **advansti** » Sun Mar 29, 2009 3:32 pm

Remember, not all PS pump brackets are created equal. You may have to source one of those to, SLODRIVE has one since he rebuilt his and transfered the res. And yes the EJ20H is Phase 1.5, I believe that started in 96, when they switched to a strait turbo (under) inlet.

Matt

SLODRIVE · Post by **SLODRIVE** » Tue Mar 31, 2009 6:56 am

Just to answer a few things:

-If you look closely next to the purge solenoid, you can see part of the throttle bracket I made, it *should* line up. I haven't taken care of the tab for the cable keeper yet, but will soon.

-I used both the P/S pump and bracket from the EJ22. The EJ20H pump had Sport Steer wiring and a different mounting bolt pattern along with the bracket, so I only used the reservoir from it. The power steering pressure line can hopefully be bent to fit under the inlet and mate with the pump, we'll see.

-EJ20H motors began production in MY94, I'm pretty sure. At least my motor's a '94.

SLODRIVE · Post by **SLODRIVE** » Mon Apr 06, 2009 7:14 am

Busy Legacy weekend. Yesterday, I hooked up the shifter linkage and rear driveshaft, and bled the brakes. We also replaced the ball joints and outer tie rod ends. Today, we went to the salvage yard and scored 2 doors, a LF fender, a RF fender liner, a radiator fan, and the plastic tray that goes in the spare tire well...all for $105. We then pressure-washed the engine compartment and painted the fender and the hood white. Getting close now.

Here's some stuff that's been trickling in over the last week or two...they'll be put to good use.

An Ebay 3" downpipe...

An Innovate LC-1 wide-band O2 sensor kit with a very cool analog gauge...

...And last but certainly not least...an AEM F/IC piggyback computer! Much more to come on this.

GodSquadMandrake · Post by **GodSquadMandrake** » Mon Apr 06, 2009 12:35 pm

I'm interested in hearing more about the AEM F/IC. I decided to ditch the PP6 in favor or E-Manage Ultimate. I read about PP6 having a lot of problems with our OBD1 ECU's and causing bucking problems especially. Also the fuel resolution is bad because it just adjusts the load on the MAF and doesn't drive the injectors directly. Someone explained it but basically If you go from 1.1ms to 1.2ms which is a +1 in PP6 that'll be a change from 200 to 225 CC of fuel which can be too much and make it real hard to make the car run smooth.

E-Manage Ultimate can drive the injectors directly so you have a 16x16 high resolution fuel table for finer adjustments. Also that means the ECU can't cut fuel or rev limit if you don't want it to. So your rev limiter can be whatever you want, and you don't need a FCD.

The MAP/MAF mode works the same on both, but the E-Manage ultimate has an auto-tune feature which will setup a base tune that gets you in the ballpark and it WORKS! Also it supposedly has knock control but I haven't heard much on that.

RS25.com has a lot of info on E-Manage Ulti but I can't get on the forum. It says my username is already registered but my password doesn't work and it says my email isn't in their system....

I'm going to read up on AEM F/IC. I'm interested to see what it can do if you are using it and your setup is so similar to mine.

bmxpunk · Post by **bmxpunk** » Thu Apr 09, 2009 1:09 am

Awesome Job! I did alot of the same with my ej20h manifold. I hope to post pictures this weekend.

I didn't do the adapter plate for the throttle body. I merely cut down the bracket the tps mounts to and cut off the tap on that side. Then I JB welded in the vaccum ports and sanded it smooth

By the way where did you get the MAF silicone hose? I can't find one on ebay.

SLODRIVE · Post by **SLODRIVE** » Thu Apr 09, 2009 4:53 am

bmxpunk wrote:Awesome Job! I did alot of the same with my ej20h manifold. I hope to post pictures this weekend.

I didn't do the adapter plate for the throttle body. I merely cut down the bracket the tps mounts to and cut off the tap on that side. Then I JB welded in the vaccum ports and sanded it smooth

By the way where did you get the MAF silicone hose? I can't find one on ebay.

Thanks. I considered JB Welding the port and such, but I'm paranoid of it not holding up in the long run...plus, my buddy gave me a nice chunk of aluminum...hence the spacer.

The MAF hose came with the silicone turbo inlet hose, I got them on Ebay from China. The seller is "asi_performance". I know I saw the MAF hose listed separately through them, but check ALL of their auctions...their own prices vary widely, as you'll see. I bought a setup listed in AU dollars because it was the cheapest by far, go figure.

I finally reached an important milestone this week. I got the motor on the hook, and changed the rear main seal, as well as swapping the plastic rear cover for the aluminum one off the EJ22T. The flywheel/clutch soon followed, and...

It's in the car!!

Right away I checked to see if the TMIC would fit...there's tons of room towards the firewall, more than I expected. The strut bar even fits, another pleasant surprise...

As a side note...the coil bracket WILL clear the hood...as soon as I remove a bit of the hood support right there!

Stay tuned...

joeWM · Post by **joeWM** » Thu Apr 09, 2009 5:22 am

mmmmm lookin sexy in there.

asc_up · Post by **asc_up** » Thu Apr 09, 2009 5:50 am

Maybe it's just the angle of the picture, but it looks like you might have a clearance issue fitting a BPV/BOV on that intercooler.

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The SLODRIVE '92 SS Build (Now with Dyno Sheet!)