Tire shops. Grrrrr.
This is what I did for the rear.
'93 Winestone SS Auto, '91 Pearl White SS.
'93 Pure White SS EJ20G slanty intercooled, SIDESWIPED! In stasis.
'94 FWD and '95 AWD Laguna Blue SVXs.
2017 Pure Red BRZ Limited w/Performance pack
Sweet write up man! What the hell did the tire shop do?
Matthew aka F[b][color=red]k[/color][/b]yx
1991 Legacy Sport Sedan "Jillian" - [url=http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?t=39548]EJ20G swap[/url]
The one thing I'd like to add...MAKE SURE and re-tighten your lug nuts after a few miles. Just in case the stud wasn't pressed in all the way...don't forget!
http://www.slodriveracing.com
-92 SS 5MT- EJ20H swap, Haltech standalone ECU, TD04, FXT TMIC, 3" exhaust, STi/AGX struts, JDM 5-speed, 4.111 LSD rear, Blitz EBC, etc.
-'93 L Wagon - Pink Roll Cage - "Dirty Leg"
-And more!
Not sure exactly what the tire shop did, but I assume it had something to do with monkeys and impact wrenches. The first time I pulled the wheels after the tire shop installed them I could tell it would be the last time I would be able to do that without more damage. I was in a pinch so I begrudgingly forced the lug nuts back on, knowing they wouldn't come back off in one piece. I just made plans to fix the damage as soon as I could.
'93 Winestone SS Auto, '91 Pearl White SS.
'93 Pure White SS EJ20G slanty intercooled, SIDESWIPED! In stasis.
'94 FWD and '95 AWD Laguna Blue SVXs.
2017 Pure Red BRZ Limited w/Performance pack
When I replaced my lug studs, though, I didn't disassemble the parking brake. If I remember correctly, I just took the wheel and brake rotor off and then removed the tone wheel bolts and there was enough room to wiggle the studs in and out around the loose tone wheel.
"Just reading vrg3's convoluted, information-packed posts made me feel better all over again." -- subyluvr2212
Yeah, I have never disassembled the parking brake to remove/install a wheel stud. I don't have ABS, so I don't have a tone wheel to worry about, but it appears that you can even get around that, as Vikash has said.
However, I do want to give fair warning about hammering wheelstuds out, or taking a hammer anywhere near the hub:
Subaru wheel bearings are crap, and if you look at them the wrong way, they go bad.
Four of the six I've replaced have been due to 1) hammering wheelstuds out or 2) hammering against a stuck-on wheel.
My advice is this:
Grind the broken wheelstud down until it's just a small piece. Reinstall the wheel on the remaining 3-4 lugs, and lower the car to the ground completely. Then, grab a socket extension and align it against the wheelstud remnant in the wheel hole. Then have at it with the hammer.
I've done that before with much more favorable results. It seems that by doing so, you're using the weight of the car as leverage against the wheelstud, not the wheel bearing.
"Der Wahnsinn ist nur eine schmale Brücke/die Ufer sind Vernunft und Trieb"
It is true that hammering out the studs is a good way of brinelling the bearings. I do this type of stuff for a living and have developed over the years (and many damaged bearings) a good feel for how much is OK and how much is too much.
One "medium-sharp" hit should get it moving, if it does not then placing the wheel (and rotor to add more mass) back on will help it to absorb the beating.
For the perfectionist, lug studs are usually made of very soft material and can be drilled out much easier than most bolts.
When I get the chance I will re-edit the pics to add your contributions.
'93 Winestone SS Auto, '91 Pearl White SS.
'93 Pure White SS EJ20G slanty intercooled, SIDESWIPED! In stasis.
'94 FWD and '95 AWD Laguna Blue SVXs.
2017 Pure Red BRZ Limited w/Performance pack