Merging EJ22T harness with 97 2.2NA (obd2)

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Furnace89
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Merging EJ22T harness with 97 2.2NA (obd2)

Post by Furnace89 »

Hi again everyone,
I recently bought a 92 Legacy touring wagon, auto with 4eat 500$. It has 229 xxx km (142 xxx miles). I just finished pulling the motor and and almost have the wiring harness out.


So here's my dilemma, just like every other EJ22T to OBD2 swap... electrical.

I cannot afford standalone and would like to wire up the motor, stock, by merging the two wiring harness'. I realize its difficult, but im determined. And I have wiring diagrams for both cars and wiring harness'.

My biggest question is whether i can both ecu's independently, each for select things. As in the 22t's for engine management:
(ignition, crank +cam +o2 +temp +knock +throttle sensors, oil pressure switch, bypass control valve and cpc solenoid) along with every other wires relating to the engine,
and the 97 ecu for the rest:
(SPEED SENSOR, alternator, starter, AC controls, reverse lights) and whatever else is left.

I realize the auto ecu will require slight modification to 1 or 2 pins.. i forget where i read it but im sure i can find it again to verify.

Well im calling it a night, after i add these picture.... (click for larger image)

Interior is ready to have the entire wiring harness removed:
Image

Empty engine bay:
Image

Engine
Image

Turbo:
Image
Image[/code]
1997 Legacy L Wagon, dd
1993 Toyota 4Runner SR5 4x4 5spd, parked
93forestpearl
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Post by 93forestpearl »

You can swap the speed sensor for any other subaru unit. I'm using a mechanical unit from an auto car on my '05 6mt to drive my mechanical speedo.

I don't see why you need the '97 ECU for the rest. A little more wiring will integrate it. You have the FSM's, right?
→Dan

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Furnace89
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Post by Furnace89 »

Yes, well i have scans of the ecu pinouts for the 92 turbo and an obd2 impreza(1.8 and 2.2, unsure of year). I have an electronic speedo in the 97 as it is now.
Would i have to rig the entire gauge cluster from the 92 in or would the speedo fit and i would just have to hookup the cable and sensor?
1997 Legacy L Wagon, dd
1993 Toyota 4Runner SR5 4x4 5spd, parked
Furnace89
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Post by Furnace89 »

***removed due to errors***
Last edited by Furnace89 on Wed Sep 09, 2009 2:16 pm, edited 1 time in total.
1997 Legacy L Wagon, dd
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Legacy777
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Post by Legacy777 »

Those first three scans are for the 1990-1991 non-turbo legacy only.
Josh

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1990 Legacy (AWD, 6MT, & EJ22T Swap)
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Furnace89
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Post by Furnace89 »

aw darn!
Any idea where i could find the turbo ones?
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Legacy777
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Post by Legacy777 »

Sure, same place you probably found the other ones, my server.

http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/s ... ual_scans/


Here's just the I-O.
http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/s ... CU_I-O.zip

You can get the engine & electrical section from the first link.
Josh

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1990 Legacy (AWD, 6MT, & EJ22T Swap)
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Furnace89
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Post by Furnace89 »

haha probably, thanks a lot man that's gonna make the wiring easy now! (I hope) :mrgreen:

I read on http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/swa ... l.html#ecu that the AT/MT identifier pin needs to be cut, pin 20 on connector B48.
Is it safe to leave that pin wired-in and see if it works?
I didn't know if i should cut it(92 22t 4eat -> 97 5mt)

After that would i have to wire the neutral position switch sensor differently? 22t calls for 8v min and the 97 NA calls for 5v +/-0.5... is this even relevant?

motors going in Thursday if all goes well
1997 Legacy L Wagon, dd
1993 Toyota 4Runner SR5 4x4 5spd, parked
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Post by Legacy777 »

You need to wire it to whichever ECU is being used.

I don't recall seeing the info, but what ECU are you using? The stock EJ22T ECU? If so, yes you need to snip that identifier wire.

As for the neutral switch, those specs don't matter, just wire it up as it should be. Don't forget to snip the wire on the B36 connector.
Josh

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1990 Legacy (AWD, 6MT, & EJ22T Swap)
2020 Outback Limted XT

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Furnace89
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Post by Furnace89 »

Yup, i plan on using the stock EJ22T ecu w/ its wiring harness.
The only things i can think of that i would like to tap into the NA's wiring harness is the fuel pump, tach, temp and fuel level gauges. the connector going to the NA ecu would be unplugged, obviously.

Thanks for mentioning the B36 connector, i wouldn't have known to snip that wire. Wire 18 right?
Should i also wire 11 and 12 together?
1997 Legacy L Wagon, dd
1993 Toyota 4Runner SR5 4x4 5spd, parked
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Post by Legacy777 »

Yes, pin 18.

Yes, you need to wire 11 & 12 together to bypass the starter interlock circuit.

I have since removed my plug & play wiring of the starter interlock relay. It was causing issues with the car starting. I think the old relay is to fault....and I haven't gotten around to getting a new relay.
Josh

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1990 Legacy (AWD, 6MT, & EJ22T Swap)
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Post by Furnace89 »

I didnt have enough time off to do the entire swap. Its at the point where im ready to bolt the engine onto the tranny but it wont slide in easily. Unfortunately i don't have an alignment tool to align the clutch so thats probably the problem.

I noticed the 92 22t exhaust bolted on perfectly on the 97 na... theres even an indent in the firewall so the downpipe can fit. I got the engine to within a half inch of the bell housing but the turbo and downpipe where about 2 inches apart. Anyone had this problem?

I dont know what to do with the 15 lbs of wiring i removed from the car but ill leave it all (mostly) intact until i know what i can remove.


Ill be working on it on my next 2 days off which is looking like next tues. and wed., id be done sooner but the car's a 4 hour drive away.

Boost gauge just came in today too :D

Where i left off:
Image
(click for larger image)
1997 Legacy L Wagon, dd
1993 Toyota 4Runner SR5 4x4 5spd, parked
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Post by Legacy777 »

You can use a wooden dowel as a clutch alignment tool to get it close.
Josh

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1990 Legacy (AWD, 6MT, & EJ22T Swap)
2020 Outback Limted XT

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Furnace89
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Post by Furnace89 »

Legacy777 wrote:You can use a wooden dowel as a clutch alignment tool to get it close.
Yeah ill have to make something to line it up properly. I was using a socket and a drill bit but i guess it wasnt close enough.
Maybe im not doing it properly, i always have trouble getting the motors in these cars to mate properly with the trans.
1997 Legacy L Wagon, dd
1993 Toyota 4Runner SR5 4x4 5spd, parked
Furnace89
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Post by Furnace89 »

ok, so I got everything in and ready to go... mechanically anyways.

I merged the wiring harness from the 92 turbo into the 97. the fuel pump does not start on its own and it turns over but does not fire, even with the fuel pump connected to the battery.

this sucks, getting so close and not being able to figure out how to tie up these loose ends. ill be leaving to go back home later tonight and if really like to travel in my `baru rather than the hyundai so any quick help would be greatly appreciated
1997 Legacy L Wagon, dd
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Post by n2x4 »

Furnace89 wrote:ok, so I got everything in and ready to go... mechanically anyways.

I merged the wiring harness from the 92 turbo into the 97. the fuel pump does not start on its own and it turns over but does not fire, even with the fuel pump connected to the battery.

this sucks, getting so close and not being able to figure out how to tie up these loose ends. ill be leaving to go back home later tonight and if really like to travel in my `baru rather than the hyundai so any quick help would be greatly appreciated
I'm guessing your injectors aren't pulsing as well. You can test this by hooking up a noid light (or any 12v lightbulb) to an injector plug. If it flashes on and off while you crank then you've got injector power. If the light is dead, then you're injectors aren't working.
If both the fuelpump and the injectors won't come on, I'd say it has to do with the Self Shutoff wire (no fuel pump or injector power if this guy isn't happy). Did you wire in a diode?

You're using the Turbo ECU, correct? Have you hooked a laptop up to run the scantool? It's a helpful troubleshooting tool. It can tell you some helpful issue (like if the self shutoff wire is on or off)

Also, not sure if you've seen my swap writeup. Granted it's not for your model year, but it might be helpful!

http://www.rs25.com/forums/f105/t105404 ... l-faq.html
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Furnace89
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Post by Furnace89 »

wow thanks man!
Im still reading through all of your information and looking at you youtube vids... cool stuff!

Do you know which connectors can be safely cut out?
I realize that's asking alot, hah. Ill dissect the harness next week on my days off and give it a shot.

Could you list the sensors on your strut towers from the 22t? I have doubts whether i transferred over everything i needed
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Post by n2x4 »

Furnace89 wrote: Could you list the sensors on your strut towers from the 22t? I have doubts whether i transferred over everything i needed
Glad it's helpful! Unfortunately I can't tell you what plugs need to be cut other than most of them :P

Since your donor car was an auto (as was mine) you'll have 3 plugs on the strut bracket, with only 2 that matter.

On the front side you have the Boost control solenoid and the pressure exchange solenoid. On the back side you have the dropping resistor. The dropping resistor is for the Auto tranny and doesn't wire into the ECU. The needed sensors are easy to wire in as they run directly to the ECU. They're also easy to test- if you connect the D-check connectors (green) the solenoids will click. If you unhook the solenoids and plug a voltmeter into the plugs, you'll see 5v pulse on and off (they're 5v sensors).

Just take your time and read the diagrams - you'll learn a lot about how ECU's work.
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Post by Furnace89 »

There's a good chance im having the same self-shutoff problem you had. How did you fix that?

Also, how did you route your cooling lines? Did you keep the reservoir on the right side up near the intake manifold?
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Post by n2x4 »

Furnace89 wrote:There's a good chance im having the same self-shutoff problem you had. How did you fix that?

Also, how did you route your cooling lines? Did you keep the reservoir on the right side up near the intake manifold?
Coolant lines - I didn't feel like messing with the turbo coolant tank, so I actually removed it. I'll call it a test - so far no problems. Not sure how the turbo's life will be impacted but as long as I let it cool down before I turn the car off, I think I'll be ok.

Self Shutoff wire - I basically hardwired the pin so that the self shutoff was always connected. I never got it to turn off on it's own, so I wired in a switch to cut power to that wire. It's my "kill switch". It doesn't really bother me, I've learned to live with it. We had a pretty good thread on the issue found here:
http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic. ... lf+shutoff
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Post by impreza_GC8 »

I can't really offer any help on this but I can offer some encouragement because my turbo'ed '97 Outback has an EJ22T ECU that has been completely merged seamlessly into the car. You check codes the OBD1 way and the Outback dash cluster works perfectly. So it can be done, I bought mine already done though.
-'97 Outback - EJ25 block/pistons/HLA heads, EJ22T crank/rods/ECU, EJ20G intake manifold/fuel rails/440cc injectors, VF8 @ 11psi. . . . Fuel cut > me
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Post by Furnace89 »

So i could wire the pin directly to the battery w/ a switch and apply power to the pin when i want the car to run?

I know i should be snipping pin 18 and wiring 11 and 12 together on connector B36... i couldnt find where this connector plugged in. What does it do?

Other than that im pretty sure all the pins should match to the ecu pinout for my car.

I can use a good ground on the body to ground the ecu right?
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Post by n2x4 »

Furnace89 wrote:So i could wire the pin directly to the battery w/ a switch and apply power to the pin when i want the car to run?
Something like that. I always had power coming from that pin, so I just used it.
Furnace89 wrote: I know i should be snipping pin 18 and wiring 11 and 12 together on connector B36... i couldnt find where this connector plugged in. What does it do?
Not sure, can you show me on a diagram?
Furnace89 wrote: I can use a good ground on the body to ground the ecu right?
Just use the ECU grounding points that were used from the factory. Grounds are very important - don't rig them!
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Post by Furnace89 »

unfortunately I don't have any diagrams for it. I just finished stripping down the wiring harness as you described and now I've got a few more questions.

there's a yellow wire with a red tracer coming out of the wastegate control, pressure solenoid, 1 going to the injectors, 2 coming from a square plug near the battery(which have continuity between them) and one solid yellow going the ignitor on top of the trans brace... out of a lack of any better idea I wired all of them directly to the battery... and nothing happened. But now the rad fans are on constantly when the ignition is on.
It'll crank all day but still won't fire
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Post by n2x4 »

Yellow or Yellow/Red is the power wire for 90% of the harness. You need to look at the FSM and see where those should be sourcing power from. You can't run all that to the battery. Some sensors are only 5v - you'll really mess things up if you give them more than that.

Did you try a noid or some 12v light on the injector? The injector is fed 12v all day long, but gets grounded out at the ECU to actually fire the injector (the ECU isn't sending power to an injector to make it work, just ground). Just because it has voltage doesn't mean the ECU wants to close the circuit to truly fire the injector.

I still say you need to hook the scan tool up. It will tell you if things are working correctly or not. The fans may be fine - but if you had the scan tool you could see if the fan relay was switched on.

Take a look at the main relay - it should be sending 12v out on two lines. If you're not getting that, you've got a problem.
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