Another 4EAT to 5sp WRX Swap is finished

Flywheel, Clutch, Transmission, Axles, etc...

Moderators: Helpinators, Moderators

Post Reply
Lurch
In Neutral
Posts: 45
Joined: Mon Nov 05, 2007 6:20 am
Location: Centennial, CO

Another 4EAT to 5sp WRX Swap is finished

Post by Lurch »

My son and I did a 9 day grind last month to convert his 93 t-leg from a 4EAT automatic to an 02 WRX 5sp manual transmission. Because of this site with all the previous documented experiences, how-to's, and Q&A postings we were able to put it together, start it up, and drive it down the street on the first try.

Holy crap!!!! This car was fun with the automatic but the 5sp manual makes it scream! The auto really ate up the horsepower.

During the swap, we also did a bunch of preventive maintenance. Front wheel bearings and seals, lower ball joints, new Bosch universal O2 sensor, new OEM temp sensor, new right side front axle that blow out too soon (14 month old autozone shit). We also did the rear oil seal.

I would like to offer a special thank you to these guys for their posts and/or websites: My biggest screwup was not changing the pinion flange on the WRX differential to the old T-leg flange. I did not figure this out until I was attaching the driveshaft. That cost me 4+ hours to remove the diff, switch the flange and reinstall. It was clearly document in other posts but I simple missed it.
The next screwup was not jacking up the front of the motor when removing the auto tranny. That automatic transmission is one fat bitch! I played see-saw for a few hours until I figured it out. Again clearly documented in the haynes manual but missed by me.

Things that I learned but may not have been documented or the documentation is confusing:
  • - You need two new 100mm upper transmission bolts. I used part number 800510060.
    - I used clutch pressure plate bolt part number 800508310
    - I used flywheel bolt part number 800610740
    - The driveshaft for the WRX is too short on the second half so you have to split it and use the front pinion half and then put the t-leg on the back half. I did not figure that on out until I was fitting it in place.
    - I stripped out one of the old auto transmission mount body nuts. I had ordered the WRX bolts for those locations just in case I need them… but I reused the old bolts because the WRX bolts were different. But when I stripped one mount I was able to use this bolt to self-tap the mount and securely tighten the bolt. Part number 901030002
    - The two bolts for the front cross member is part number 901000112 which is interchangeable with 20540FC110.
    - You need to attach the shifter joint spring pin before you install the transmission. I ended up having to bolt it with a locking nut and bolt instead.
    - You need to get the lower exhaust hanger. Part number 44021AA090. I modified the auto one but I do not like it. Last time I was at UpickUPay I got one off an NA 5sp and it fit perfectly.
Pain in the Butt Issues:
  • - Removing the flex plate bolts required removing the throttle body. Then the bolt heads started to strip on two of them. Lost 4 hours on that crap. 6 point small socket a must.
    - Pedals required a lot of work to fit. This has been documented in other posts.
    - Playing see-saw getting the auto transmission out.
I end up ordering all the clutch hose parts from Jegs for $46.
  • - HOSE 14" -3AN STRT X STRT (11555-635003) $9.99
    - 10 MM BANJO BOLT (361-977517) $4.69
    - BANJO 3 TO 10MM (11361-997631) $8.99
    - #3 TO 10MM BRAKE ADAPTER (11799-641431) 11.99
    Plus $10 shipping
Here are some pictures from the conversion. Click on them to get a larger image.
Image
WRX 5sp drive train components.

Image
WRX Flywheel with mild hot spots before machining.

Image
WRX flywheel after machine.

Image
I removed the IC to get to the transmission.

Image
Auto transmission out of the car.

Image
Auto tranny vs 5sp tranny.

Image
The transmission is out.

Image
Flexplate that the torque converter connects to.

Image
Drive train (Differential, axles, and driveshaft) out.

Image
Auto shifter removed.

Image
Under the dash pointing to the TCU. Just left of the steering column.

Image
5sp pedal installed. Not as easy as it looked.

Image
The T-Leg's 3:90 diff on the left and the WRX 3:55 on the right.

Image
More missing drive train and me under the car toward the front.

Image
New Exedy clutch installed.

Image
Hydraulic clutch components.

Image
Hydraulic clutch complete.

I blogged the same information here.
James
93 Legacy Turbo SS Burgundy - Son's Car
Mods: KYB GR2, K&N, TD04/WRX TMIC, Hallman Pro MBC @ 11.5 psi, 02 WRX 5sp Tranny, AU CB 97-00 WRX 3" Turbo back Exhaust / Future Mods: MSD DIS2
02 Toyota Tundra v8 4x4 TRD & 97 Suzuki Bandit 1200s- Mine
Top
skatedees
First Gear
Posts: 78
Joined: Thu Jul 12, 2007 8:37 pm
Location: WI

Post by skatedees »

Congrats!!

Greatest follow up ever........
1991 BJ EJ22
Top
Legacy777
Site Admin
Site Admin
Posts: 27926
Joined: Tue Oct 15, 2002 11:37 am
Location: Houston, Tx
Contact:
Contact Legacy777

Post by Legacy777 »

Excellent comments on the swap!!

Yeah removing the 4EAT is a HUGE pain in the butt!
Josh

surrealmirage.com/subaru
1990 Legacy (AWD, 6MT, & EJ22T Swap)
2020 Outback Limted XT

If you need to get a hold of me please email me rather then pm
Top
dropdfocus
Fourth Gear
Posts: 1937
Joined: Sun Sep 07, 2003 5:57 am
Location: Williamsport, PA
Contact:
Contact dropdfocus

Post by dropdfocus »

Edit: **Nevermind, found the answer I was looking for...**
Jason
'92 LSS "Trixie" - TD04, '06 WRX TMIC, Invidia D/P & TXS U/P, 3" APEX'i CBE, custom intake, TXS MBC & BPV
Perrin LCP, WRX & H6 brakes, S/S lines, Cusco H-brace & RSTB, AGX's, Progress springs, SimplySubie fender braces
Top
SubaruNation
Fifth Gear
Posts: 3526
Joined: Wed Jul 18, 2007 5:07 pm
Location: Whammy!

Post by SubaruNation »

subscribing!
Zach - Legacy Frankenstin
93forestpearl wrote:Keep up the good work. You'll never know what you are capable of unless you push yourself.
Top
Spilner
In Neutral
Posts: 18
Joined: Thu Aug 09, 2007 1:13 am
Location: Western MA

Post by Spilner »

Did you use the wrx pedals?
Top
Lurch
In Neutral
Posts: 45
Joined: Mon Nov 05, 2007 6:20 am
Location: Centennial, CO

Post by Lurch »

I'm not sure if it was from an RS or WRX. I got them for free when I bought an O2 WRX turbo and IC. From all the pictures and mechanical drawings I have seen, they all look the same for 91-94 t-legs and imprezas up through 02/03 WRX. Beyond that year I can not say for sure.
James
93 Legacy Turbo SS Burgundy - Son's Car
Mods: KYB GR2, K&N, TD04/WRX TMIC, Hallman Pro MBC @ 11.5 psi, 02 WRX 5sp Tranny, AU CB 97-00 WRX 3" Turbo back Exhaust / Future Mods: MSD DIS2
02 Toyota Tundra v8 4x4 TRD & 97 Suzuki Bandit 1200s- Mine
Top
dropdfocus
Fourth Gear
Posts: 1937
Joined: Sun Sep 07, 2003 5:57 am
Location: Williamsport, PA
Contact:
Contact dropdfocus

Post by dropdfocus »

The 5MT pedal box is the same on the cars. They only changed when they switch over to TBW (throttle by wire). The only thing that makes the WRX or STi special is the pedal covers.
Jason
'92 LSS "Trixie" - TD04, '06 WRX TMIC, Invidia D/P & TXS U/P, 3" APEX'i CBE, custom intake, TXS MBC & BPV
Perrin LCP, WRX & H6 brakes, S/S lines, Cusco H-brace & RSTB, AGX's, Progress springs, SimplySubie fender braces
Top
trev0006
In Neutral
Posts: 42
Joined: Wed Jan 20, 2010 5:09 am

Re: Another 4EAT to 5sp WRX Swap is finished

Post by trev0006 »

thanks for the links.






Lurch wrote:My son and I did a 9 day grind last month to convert his 93 t-leg from a 4EAT automatic to an 02 WRX 5sp manual transmission. Because of this site with all the previous documented experiences, how-to's, and Q&A postings we were able to put it together, start it up, and drive it down the street on the first try.

Holy crap!!!! This car was fun with the automatic but the 5sp manual makes it scream! The auto really ate up the horsepower.

During the swap, we also did a bunch of preventive maintenance. Front wheel bearings and seals, lower ball joints, new Bosch universal O2 sensor, new OEM temp sensor, new right side front axle that blow out too soon (14 month old autozone shit). We also did the rear oil seal.

I would like to offer a special thank you to these guys for their posts and/or websites: My biggest screwup was not changing the pinion flange on the WRX differential to the old T-leg flange. I did not figure this out until I was attaching the driveshaft. That cost me 4+ hours to remove the diff, switch the flange and reinstall. It was clearly document in other posts but I simple missed it.
The next screwup was not jacking up the front of the motor when removing the auto tranny. That automatic transmission is one fat bitch! I played see-saw for a few hours until I figured it out. Again clearly documented in the haynes manual but missed by me.

Things that I learned but may not have been documented or the documentation is confusing:
  • - You need two new 100mm upper transmission bolts. I used part number 800510060.
    - I used clutch pressure plate bolt part number 800508310
    - I used flywheel bolt part number 800610740
    - The driveshaft for the WRX is too short on the second half so you have to split it and use the front pinion half and then put the t-leg on the back half. I did not figure that on out until I was fitting it in place.
    - I stripped out one of the old auto transmission mount body nuts. I had ordered the WRX bolts for those locations just in case I need them… but I reused the old bolts because the WRX bolts were different. But when I stripped one mount I was able to use this bolt to self-tap the mount and securely tighten the bolt. Part number 901030002
    - The two bolts for the front cross member is part number 901000112 which is interchangeable with 20540FC110.
    - You need to attach the shifter joint spring pin before you install the transmission. I ended up having to bolt it with a locking nut and bolt instead.
    - You need to get the lower exhaust hanger. Part number 44021AA090. I modified the auto one but I do not like it. Last time I was at UpickUPay I got one off an NA 5sp and it fit perfectly.
Pain in the Butt Issues:
  • - Removing the flex plate bolts required removing the throttle body. Then the bolt heads started to strip on two of them. Lost 4 hours on that crap. 6 point small socket a must.
    - Pedals required a lot of work to fit. This has been documented in other posts.
    - Playing see-saw getting the auto transmission out.
I end up ordering all the clutch hose parts from Jegs for $46.
  • - HOSE 14" -3AN STRT X STRT (11555-635003) $9.99
    - 10 MM BANJO BOLT (361-977517) $4.69
    - BANJO 3 TO 10MM (11361-997631) $8.99
    - #3 TO 10MM BRAKE ADAPTER (11799-641431) 11.99
    Plus $10 shipping
Here are some pictures from the conversion. Click on them to get a larger image.
Top
Post Reply

Return to “Drivetrain”