so i just got my tranny and motor put back together and put in the car and i noticed that the clutch fork moves freely. is there something i need to do to get it to connect or did i install it wrong?
second: where the shifter linkage connects to the transmission joint is there a special bolt? cause the hole looks smaller than the bushing hole.
third: how important is the little spring in the linkage
with any luck ill have this thing running soon after being broken for 6 months lol
If you put the throughout bearing on the fork before mating the tranny to engine, then you just push the fork backwards until you hear and feel a spring like connection to the pressure plate. Then the fork will not move freely any more.
I think you are talking about the spring pin. I did not install it before I put it the car and then I could not get it driven in. So I used a bolt with a lock nut.
I run without the centering spring. Centers and feels fine to me.
James
93 Legacy Turbo SS Burgundy - Son's Car
Mods: KYB GR2, K&N, TD04/WRX TMIC, Hallman Pro MBC @ 11.5 psi, 02 WRX 5sp Tranny, AU CB 97-00 WRX 3" Turbo back Exhaust / Future Mods: MSD DIS2
02 Toyota Tundra v8 4x4 TRD & 97 Suzuki Bandit 1200s- Mine
legacylok wrote:so i just got my tranny and motor put back together and put in the car and i noticed that the clutch fork moves freely. is there something i need to do to get it to connect or did i install it wrong?
second: where the shifter linkage connects to the transmission joint is there a special bolt? cause the hole looks smaller than the bushing hole.
third: how important is the little spring in the linkage
with any luck ill have this thing running soon after being broken for 6 months lol
Please clarify whether you are talking about a turbo or non-turbo transmission.
You need the centering spring, or the shifter will be all floppy.
1) As others have mentioned, once the engine is mated up, push the fork back into the throwout bearing ring -- it will snap in and no longer freely move.
2) Yes, it's special. You should've used a 10mm allen key to remove the cover. Then use a 6mm bolt (the one from the coil pack works well), to remove/insert the rod which the fork pivots on. To separate the tranny from the engine, this rod must be removed. During reassembly, before mounting the engine to the tranny, the throwout bearing must be placed onto the tranny snout. Then the rod must be inserted over the bearing and into the fork.
3) Yes, you'll want that return spring on the fork too. I drove w/o one for a bit, but it gets floppy.
Did you clip the throw out bearing into the pressure plate? If so, you would need to separate the engine and trans. The throw out bearing needs to be slid on the transmission snout, and the clutch fork needs to be positioned into it, and then the clutch fork pivot pin installed.
I have to deal with near 100 degree temps with humidity all summer. I've learned to live with it WITH a fan. Without my garage fan.....it would be unbearable.
so legacylok and i are working on his car together... and last night we tried to install that shifter spring and it just did not look right is there any chance someone can take a picture for us?
I haven't tried it yet its been 100 degrees here and I don't feel like roasting my self in a garage haha.
is there any chance someone can take a picture for us?
