I am hoping maybe someone has experienced this issue before. I have a 91 legacy turbo (daily driver) and am putting the engine into my 88 wagon.
So... I bought another ej22t harness and ended up only receiving the under dash portion (Nothing past the super multiple junction). I had a 90 n/a complete harness, so I used the section from the SMJ to the engine with the f47 ecu plug and added the pressure sol wire and wastegate control. Engine connectors (all rectangle/square, no round connector) and wire colors matched my 91 turbo harness on all 3 engine plugs so I did not re-pin anything on f25, 26, or 27.
I plugged this into my legacy and it will start and run but seems to be in limp mode throwing codes for maf, and tps. There is no throttle control, it runs ok with the throttle barely open, but obviously the ecu is not getting data from maf or tps. If I unplug the maf, no change (power is at maf plug, ground as well) If I unplug the tps, engine dies.
Now for the weird part, I can pull codes with the black connectors, but as soon as I plug in the green test connectors, engine dies. I must have the power or grounds screwed up (or out of sequence.... I don't know if that makes any difference. I'm just laying my harness over the fender and hot wiring it to the battery for power with a few extra grounds to the engine and body along with ecu grounds of coarse)
I know for a fact that the ecu is good as well as all sensors (I drive the car daily, code free) so I screwed something up in my harness thinning or hopefully just have a ground issue or something.
Anyone have any thoughts???
Thanks,
Scott
EJ22T swap wiring questions
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subiekid8891
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Wow, that sounds like a fun one. Lets try and tackle each issue separately.
First get a handle on what the ECU currently sees-
My suggestion is to hook up a scan tool to the ECU and see what the sensors are reading, particularly the TPS. There's a sticky thread about the scan tool that reads values onto a laptop that I suggest you look into.
TPS should see just about 5v at closed throttle, and just about 0v at WOT.
MAF issue-
You REALLY need to have a working MAF. Just out of curiosity, is your MAF plastic or aluminum? The turbo ECU won't work with the plastic JECS MAF unless you ground one of the pins, and even then it's still not the right sensor to use.
Pulling codes issue-
The test connectors do nothing except ground out a pin at the ECU. I guess you could check for voltage on either of the green connectors. You can use a different wire to ground out the pin if you want to check on things.
First get a handle on what the ECU currently sees-
My suggestion is to hook up a scan tool to the ECU and see what the sensors are reading, particularly the TPS. There's a sticky thread about the scan tool that reads values onto a laptop that I suggest you look into.
TPS should see just about 5v at closed throttle, and just about 0v at WOT.
MAF issue-
You REALLY need to have a working MAF. Just out of curiosity, is your MAF plastic or aluminum? The turbo ECU won't work with the plastic JECS MAF unless you ground one of the pins, and even then it's still not the right sensor to use.
Pulling codes issue-
The test connectors do nothing except ground out a pin at the ECU. I guess you could check for voltage on either of the green connectors. You can use a different wire to ground out the pin if you want to check on things.
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subiekid8891
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I back probed for power at the green test connectors... nothing (Fluke DVOM). That is the issue that has me confused, it seems to either cut spark or power to the injectors when you touch the green connectors together...... something is not right. I can plug the same ecu I am testing with the thinned harness into the stock harness and all is well, green connectors have no effect on runability.
I have been reading about this mpfi diode and never came across one in my harness, could this be a contributing factor?? I do technically have half turbo and half 90 n/a harness (under dash is turbo, post SMJ is 90 n/a).
I found a printer cable for the scan tool last night that I can hopefully get going at lunch time. I plan to get some sensor values off the stock wiring to compare with my "thinned" harness.
Thanks
Scott
I have been reading about this mpfi diode and never came across one in my harness, could this be a contributing factor?? I do technically have half turbo and half 90 n/a harness (under dash is turbo, post SMJ is 90 n/a).
I found a printer cable for the scan tool last night that I can hopefully get going at lunch time. I plan to get some sensor values off the stock wiring to compare with my "thinned" harness.
Thanks
Scott
Scott,
I replied to your post on the USMB. The cam & crank sensor wiring is different between the non-turbo & turbo cars. I'm not sure what happened when you put the two harnesses together.
I'd strongly recommend performing a continuity test on all the ECU pins to ensure they are going to where they're supposed to. If you do that, you'll probably find your problem.
I replied to your post on the USMB. The cam & crank sensor wiring is different between the non-turbo & turbo cars. I'm not sure what happened when you put the two harnesses together.
I'd strongly recommend performing a continuity test on all the ECU pins to ensure they are going to where they're supposed to. If you do that, you'll probably find your problem.
Josh
surrealmirage.com/subaru
1990 Legacy (AWD, 6MT, & EJ22T Swap)
2020 Outback Limted XT
If you need to get a hold of me please email me rather then pm
surrealmirage.com/subaru
1990 Legacy (AWD, 6MT, & EJ22T Swap)
2020 Outback Limted XT
If you need to get a hold of me please email me rather then pm
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subiekid8891
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The under dash portion of the harness is turbo. The section from the SMJ to the engine including the f47ecu connector is non turbo. I checked the cam and crank and they were in the correct pins (will dbl check to be sure).
A continuity check from one end to the other sounds like a plan to me, that way I can eliminate each sensor one at a time. Thanks Josh!
Does anyone have any good diagrams of the engine connectors F25, f26, and f27? It seems like some grounds are white which is confusing to me.
Anyway, I will update with what I find.
Scott
(This is the same post on the USMB, I just wanted to add it here for future swapper's)
A continuity check from one end to the other sounds like a plan to me, that way I can eliminate each sensor one at a time. Thanks Josh!
Does anyone have any good diagrams of the engine connectors F25, f26, and f27? It seems like some grounds are white which is confusing to me.
Anyway, I will update with what I find.
Scott
(This is the same post on the USMB, I just wanted to add it here for future swapper's)
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subiekid8891
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I think I may have found the issue, some of the ecu wires on the harness I purchased were all ready stripped and soldered on so when I hooked everything up to test the harness, I just put a dab of solder for temporary to make sure all was well with the wiring.... turns out the maf ground came loose.
Hopefully the other codes were caused by this, continuity test passed on every wire except the above.
I didn't hook the harness to the legacy and try to run it, but will tomorrow after work.
Scott
Hopefully the other codes were caused by this, continuity test passed on every wire except the above.
I didn't hook the harness to the legacy and try to run it, but will tomorrow after work.
Scott
Scott,
Did you get the wiring diagrams you needed?
Did you get the wiring diagrams you needed?
Josh
surrealmirage.com/subaru
1990 Legacy (AWD, 6MT, & EJ22T Swap)
2020 Outback Limted XT
If you need to get a hold of me please email me rather then pm
surrealmirage.com/subaru
1990 Legacy (AWD, 6MT, & EJ22T Swap)
2020 Outback Limted XT
If you need to get a hold of me please email me rather then pm
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subiekid8891
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It's alive!!
I was mistaken in my previous post, it was the Maf signal wire that came loose not the ground. Needless to say, it runs normal (much better) now.
I still have 2 codes (but no check eng. light): 31 Throttle sensor and 49 Wrong Maf.
I'm not positive (it's been awhile), but the 31 has been a phantom code since I got the legacy. It functions fine and I have tried a few different TPS's (that all test good) with no resolution. When I bought the 2nd wiring harness with ecu I put the "new" (to me) ecu in and the code has since disappeared. Now that I know the wiring is correct, I will try the other ecu on my "thinned" harness to see if the same thing happens.
The 49 on the other hand doesn't make sense to me... It's the original factory maf running on the stock original ecu. Maybe it just needs to learn?????? Either way as soon as revtronics gets done with the stage 3 chip for my vf39, I will run the jecs anyway. Until then anyone got any ideas?
Thanks to all for your input!
Scott
I was mistaken in my previous post, it was the Maf signal wire that came loose not the ground. Needless to say, it runs normal (much better) now.
I still have 2 codes (but no check eng. light): 31 Throttle sensor and 49 Wrong Maf.
I'm not positive (it's been awhile), but the 31 has been a phantom code since I got the legacy. It functions fine and I have tried a few different TPS's (that all test good) with no resolution. When I bought the 2nd wiring harness with ecu I put the "new" (to me) ecu in and the code has since disappeared. Now that I know the wiring is correct, I will try the other ecu on my "thinned" harness to see if the same thing happens.
The 49 on the other hand doesn't make sense to me... It's the original factory maf running on the stock original ecu. Maybe it just needs to learn?????? Either way as soon as revtronics gets done with the stage 3 chip for my vf39, I will run the jecs anyway. Until then anyone got any ideas?
Thanks to all for your input!
Scott
Scott,
For the MAF code, there is a wire that needs to either be grounded or cut....I don't remember. There were two different MAF sensors for the first gen legacies and that code was setup to make sure you didn't stick on the wrong one.
http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/s ... sting1.jpg
If you look at this diagram for the MAF, pins 1, 4, & 2 are the only pins necessary for the MAF to work properly. Pins 3 & 5 I are for determining if you have the correct MAF sensor. You may need to test and see whether cutting the wire from pin 5 or grounding the wire going to pin 3 makes the code go away.
You can monitor the voltage at the ECU pin, B58, pin 8. If the voltage is currently 5 volts, you need to ground that pin. If the voltage is currently 0v, then you need to make sure that pin is not grounded.
If you have any questions, let me know.
As for the TPS....if the wiring is good and the TPS is good...may be a phantom. Have you tried calibrating the TPS? This is the only adjustment that needs to be made.
http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/s ... sting3.jpg
For the MAF code, there is a wire that needs to either be grounded or cut....I don't remember. There were two different MAF sensors for the first gen legacies and that code was setup to make sure you didn't stick on the wrong one.
http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/s ... sting1.jpg
If you look at this diagram for the MAF, pins 1, 4, & 2 are the only pins necessary for the MAF to work properly. Pins 3 & 5 I are for determining if you have the correct MAF sensor. You may need to test and see whether cutting the wire from pin 5 or grounding the wire going to pin 3 makes the code go away.
You can monitor the voltage at the ECU pin, B58, pin 8. If the voltage is currently 5 volts, you need to ground that pin. If the voltage is currently 0v, then you need to make sure that pin is not grounded.
If you have any questions, let me know.
As for the TPS....if the wiring is good and the TPS is good...may be a phantom. Have you tried calibrating the TPS? This is the only adjustment that needs to be made.
http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/s ... sting3.jpg
Josh
surrealmirage.com/subaru
1990 Legacy (AWD, 6MT, & EJ22T Swap)
2020 Outback Limted XT
If you need to get a hold of me please email me rather then pm
surrealmirage.com/subaru
1990 Legacy (AWD, 6MT, & EJ22T Swap)
2020 Outback Limted XT
If you need to get a hold of me please email me rather then pm
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subiekid8891
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update
Just wanted to throw an update in here. Everything is swapped in to my 88 Gl-10 wagon and running awesome (and code free). I still need to figure out the self shutdown control, but for now pulling the main relay to shut it off is ok... hopefully will tackle that issue this afternoon. What a difference ditching the auto for a 5spd and shaving almost 800 lbs off the weight of the legacy. Fuel economy (with my foot out of it.... lol) is up almost 30% from the legacy as well.
Thanks for the help to all!!!!
Scott
Thanks for the help to all!!!!
Scott
Nice! Glad to hear it all worked out. I've had issues with the self shutoff control as well. Instead of removing the main relay, just wire in a switch on the self shutoff wire. Turn the switch on, and you'll be able to start the car. Turn the switch off and it'll shut off. If you figure out how to fix it the right way - post back and let us know how it goes!
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subiekid8891
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