So, searches aside, I've got an odd problem. Almost a year ago, I replaced the driver's side front half-shaft on my Legacy sedan [2WD]. It ran great for almost 11 months, then after a trip to VA last weekend, it started thunking and screaming (Thanks, ripped boot...) so I knew it was time for another change. Well, this time I screwed up the lock pin holding the inner joint onto the stub shaft... And now I have half a pin and a case-hardened punch stuck in the shaft.
Never had this issue before, and I partly blame my wonderful company's 'quality' axles. Is there anyway to pull the stubshaft out so I can actually get at the good side to hammer this sucker out? Laying on the ground with ~2 feet of swinging room isn't cutting it
Thanks!
'93 BC Legacy L 2WD 5MT NA (Daily Driver) awaiting AWD swap
Sitting pretty on 205/55R16 WRX rims
'88 F150 Long Bed 2WD 5MT (Beater parts grabber)
You could release the stub shaft from the front diff, but you'd need a long-nosed snap ring plier to reach the C-clip through the drain hole... And you'd have to rotate it around several revolutions until the open side of the diff and the open end of the snap ring on the inside of the stub were aligned with the drain hole so you could reach it. It would be a pain in the arse and time consuming - IMHO, it's not worth it....
I would just spin that axle around until you could hammer on the pin from a good angle and get the bugger out. If you have an air hammer, tractor supply carries a roll-pin-punch attachment that fits nicely.
Cheers,
morgan
1992 Legacy BF
1946 Ford 1.5 Ton Truck (The Beast): http://community.webshots.com/user/fishbone79
You could... but it takes some serious force. I've never been able to pull one out. They snap in because the snap-ring can float in position inside the diff, and the end of the stub is tapered. The groove where the snap-ring sits is not tapered, so you need to tug on it hard enough to pop the snap ring out of its slot... Which is really not supposed to happen.
I'll look for a visual, that will make it much easier to explain what I mean.
Cheers,
morgan
1992 Legacy BF
1946 Ford 1.5 Ton Truck (The Beast): http://community.webshots.com/user/fishbone79
Indeed, I couldn't pull the bugger out... prybars and hammers did nothing. So, I did the next best thing-- Busted the dremel and carbide bits out and removed the rest of the pin in about 6 pieces. How it even mushroomed out in the hole that bad I'll never know... All the axles I've changed and never, ever had one this bad... for being less than a year old at that! After a trip to Sears and picking up a new set of pin punches, it was only a matter of time. Only broke one in the process...
So, good news is the new axle's in, took it for a test run last night, and pending a slight brake noise (bent dust shield?) I'd say the operation was a success... just beware using aftermarket roll pins... they're apparently softer than whatever Subaru packages with theirs.
Thanks for all the help though, I was either going to pull the stub shaft or just remove the intake to get at it eventually
'93 BC Legacy L 2WD 5MT NA (Daily Driver) awaiting AWD swap
Sitting pretty on 205/55R16 WRX rims
'88 F150 Long Bed 2WD 5MT (Beater parts grabber)