Hopefully my placement of the O2 bungs will work out. One on top is for the stock narrow band and the one off to the side with the plug is for a wideband O2 sensor when I get one of those.
I have that same cat and also a couple of O2 bungs with plugs that need to be welded into the top of my 3" DP. I wonder if I should have them weld the cat in there while they're at it? Do you think an exhaust shop would do a good job with that though? I don't want stress cracks in my downpipe because of a poor weld job and I think the DP is not only strong but thicker than the cat (I think).
98 Metro Hatch Daily Driver :)
91 SS EJ20G Engine/Tranny/Diff Swap Build Thread Here
"Your testes are close to your bottom but you still play with them all the time." Jeremy Clarkson
The 3" ID (inner Dia) ends of the cat are long enough so that you can overlap the joint slightly when you put the 3" OD(outer dia) ends of the downpipe into the ID Cat so it won't break. I have never dealt with car exhaust shops but I assume they can do most of what Truck(big rig) exhaust shop can do which is where I work.
The cat is 8" long with ruffly 1" long 3" ID ends so I only cut out about 6.5" out of the downpipe so that I have a 3/4" overlap inside the cat so I won't get stress cracks.
Damn, looks really nice. Want to weld mine? lol I still need to do it and soon.
98 Metro Hatch Daily Driver :)
91 SS EJ20G Engine/Tranny/Diff Swap Build Thread Here
"Your testes are close to your bottom but you still play with them all the time." Jeremy Clarkson
I work at a truck exhaust shop. We have hundreds of jigs and samples from the big trucks. Someone will bring a pipe to us and if we don't have a jig for it we weld up a jig to one of the benches and make a new one from the jig welded to the bench. In the case of my parts my wagon is at home with no plates on it and the welder is at work.