WTB: Canister purge solenoid valve

[Mattheww044]

Hey guys, just cleared my codes and the ones that came back were IAVC and the Canister purge solenoid valve. I should just be able to clean my IACV, and if not, I have a spare. So I am just in need of the Canister purge solenoid valve. If anyone has a spare, let me know the price shipped to 99205. Thanks
Matt

[Mattheww044]

bump, anyone?

[ciper]

I strongly suggest using a resistor to replace it. It does nothing for the performance of the car, in fact it may even hurt performance slightly since the fuel trims will always be in adjustment

[sqc151]

could u explain this a little more. my solonoid is shot to and would like to fix the problem.

[Mattheww044]

Yes please explain what you mean by resistor. Any pics or where to get one would be great. Will this make the cel go away too?

[ciper]

The solenoid opens when the car is moving and lets evaporated gasoline fumes into the intake. Its purely a pollution prevention item. The only test the car runs on the valve is to see if its a shorted or open circuit. You can get rid of the check engine light by replacing the valve with a resistor to trick the ECU into thinking everything is fine.

The only major issue is that when you open your gas cap a lot of pressure will be released

[bepa]

[quote="ciper"]The solenoid opens when the car is moving and lets evaporated gasoline fumes into the intake. Its purely a pollution prevention item. The only test the car runs on the valve is to see if its a shorted or open circuit. You can get rid of the check engine light by replacing the valve with a resistor to trick the ECU into thinking everything is fine.

The only major issue is that when you open your gas cap a lot of pressure will be released[/quote]

have a small question. still I am not trying to be an ass either. this same pressure is gas vapor and is going to end up vented to the air we use. we all need to try to reduce these same gas vapors from getting into the air. I like to think I am part of the solution, not, part of the problem.

question back is why not run resistor as well as push button switch for operation before refueling? would this not get the result you are looking for as well as helping with the air we all like.

hope to hear back on this question.

[Mattheww044]

That sounds like somethin I'll look into. Where would I get one?

[ciper]

have a small question. still I am not trying to be an ass either. this same pressure is gas vapor and is going to end up vented to the air we use. we all need to try to reduce these same gas vapors from getting into the air. I like to think I am part of the solution, not, part of the problem.

question back is why not run resistor as well as push button switch for operation before refueling? would this not get the result you are looking for as well as helping with the air we all like.

hope to hear back on this question.

The issue is that the original valves stop working and they aren't cheap. The resistor is just to disable the CEL.
If you don't like the idea of polluting then lets try to find a more common valve that we can use to replace this one.

Having a switch wired in requires a working valve so it kinda goes against the KISS mentality

[sqc151]

wheres the resistor go? im not looking forward to removing my intake manifold to get to this valve. but if i have to remove the intake manifold i might as well replace it with a valve and just relocate it to the top of the manifold instead of under it. and what do u do with the vaccum lines going to the valve.

i havent gone WOT on my car since the first day i got it. i feel theres no need cause when if i do i dont go anywhere and im just flooding the engine with fuel. this is my only CEL light problem and would like to fix it.

does anyone have pictures of the resistor, what kind of resisitor and where it goes??

[H4_Deucer]

I also wonder where to put the resistor? Just jump it from one contact to the other is what I am guessing, but then how do you keep it there?

[Mattheww044]

someone who knows WTF they are doing needs to get on this so all of us "newbies" or not-so "newbies" know what to do with this. I mainly just like the peace of mind of having no CELs

[Mattheww044]

Bump. I would still like one for now til I get the whole resistor thing figures out

[H4_Deucer]

So im thinking that you have to snip wires and wire a resitior in line and then loop the two wires but what ohm resistor would you need?

[Mattheww044]

bump!!!! i really wanna get a working one on my car!!

[Lunatech]

If your old Canister purge solenoid doesn't work any way, just cut the wires off of it and solder a 100 ohm resister to them, wrap it up with some electrical tape and plug it back into the harness. Now what you should do with the vacuum lines, I don't really know what is the best thing. Probably cap them both off, but running into each other would be essentially purging all the time. I don't know witch is better. For performance reasons I would say cap them.

[sqc151]

im assuming when u say cut the wires. the resisitor is a jumper per say. cause once u cut it u cant plug it back it in. does anybody on this forum have pics of there set up. this is such a common problem but no documentation on this subject.

[Lunatech]

OK. Cut the wires close to the solenoid, throw the solenoid away, place the resistor, plug the remaining wires back into the harness.

[sqc151]

am i the only one that doesnt get this?? it must be late... yup, its late.

pics PLEASE!!!

if u cut the wires from the plug that goes to the solinoid, theres nothing to get plugged back in. and if im gonna throw it away, which means i have to remove the intake manifold anyway, ill get another solinoid and relocate it on top of the intake manifold... instead of trying to figure out what everyone is saying... "CUT the wires then PLUG it in" does not make sense in my book. please post pics, cause this is getting no where.

[sga32]

You could just get one from a junk yard. I picked one up for "free" when I was buying another part.

[sqc151]

dont have these cars in the junkyard by me. if i did i would have gotten one already.

[Lunatech]

I made a simple diagram. I hope it is clear.

http://s1000.photobucket.com/albums/af1 ... g&newest=1

BTW you need NOT remove your manifold, just use a 10mm socket and an extension to reach under the manifold to reach it.

[sqc151]

^^^...OMG, thank you so much.

one more thing, does this solve the running rich, bogging, and other problems associated with this valve. or does it just get rid of the CEL? and im guessing just cap off the vaccum lines or leave it connected to the valve? id like to remove the valve completely if possible.

[Lunatech]

My theory is that it just gets rid of the CEL, but not sure what other affect it may have.

[Mattheww044]

id still like to buy one in good condition, i don't really wanna mess with hacking up my car at the moment. does ANYONE have a spare one in working condition?