I think by fixing my EJ22 i messed somthing

sigkrist · Post by **sigkrist** » Thu Oct 23, 2003 1:36 am

Well so you guys get the right info ill start on the begining.
Somtimes while driving it stated to act funny backfiring and hesitade on rpm 1000 to 4000 but ok above, them often after 10 to 15 min all was ok again.
Then 4 weeks ago it happen again and didnot go away, backfiring, hesitate and thick black smoke from exhaust, so i tryed to fix it. started by reading the CEL and got code 22 (Knock sensor) so i borought one but no difrence. so then i check timing , cleaned Airmass censor, got new sparkplugs BOSCH super4 (25$)and new Bosch spark plug wires (60$)
checked all conections in engine room and to the computer,
checked wires and mesure sensors (Trottle,Airbypass,Oxygene,and more) well all i could find. the dealer told me it was the OXE sensor so i got a new one (190$) I got another alternator, and somthing i think is called sparkgenerator (somthing to do with the ingnition) but no difrence
The car war running really rich so i talked to dealer and he said the injector simply couldnot malfunction ok i mesure fuel pressure before filter and after it was 2,5kg that should be ok but the presure fell down almost imettedly after i turn swich of. so i pulled the injectors out and put in new O rings (8$) and woola it runed smooth or so to speak.
well no backfiring and seems ok but i thinked i messed somting up
I adjusted the idleswich and throttle to the spec but when i push the trottle its ok up to 1500 rpm then it seems to choke i have to tik the trottle to get it over 4000 rpm and then it just kicks fine, well i cant get it to act normal on 1500 to 4000 rpm no mather what.
Now im waiting to get neew Knock sensor (77$) and it wont idle if cold.
And i have presure tested evry vacum hose i can find.
i really thinked i have messed somting up (maybe damage the throttle sensor or somthing)
The dealer say its the sparkplugs and threads but i wont agre ( think he say that becouse im not using OEM) becouse the OEM is about 55$ each so we talkink about over 220$ for new OEM sparkthreads.
any got a idea about what i messed up.

sorry about my English

Greeting from Iceland
Sigkrist

--------------------------------
Legasy Ej22 1991
Beige

THAWA · Post by **THAWA** » Thu Oct 23, 2003 1:48 am

Well one thing that stuck out to me was the bosch plugs. They aren't as good as ngk's I don't know how bad they are for the car but read this

Brat4by4 · Post by **Brat4by4** » Thu Oct 23, 2003 2:14 am

Possibly messed up mass air-flow meter when you cleaned it? How did you clean it?

Post by **Legacy777** » Thu Oct 23, 2003 3:28 am

first and formost....how many miles/km you have on there?

Second....I'd probably replace the coolant temp sensor right off the bat before I did anything else. They're relatively cheap and good insurance if you have higher miles/km. Does the car run ok when cold and then crappy when warmed up?

It sounds like you have an a/f ratio issue. Sensors that could cause that are MAF, coolant temp, & O2 sensor. There are other sensors that will have issues into it, but assuming everything else is correct, those are going to be your driving sensors for a/f ratio control.

Also I would recommend you resetting your ECU. Pull the EGI/TCU fuse, Fuse no 14. for 10-15 min while the car is off. This will clear the backup memory.

And yeah....how did you clean your MAF....those things are very fragile.

scottzg · Post by **scottzg** » Thu Oct 23, 2003 6:18 am

can someone else back me up that the easiest way to test sensors is to reset the ecu and disconnect the suspicious sensor, and if the car runs remarkably better then you ought to replace the sensor?

THAWA · Post by **THAWA** » Thu Oct 23, 2003 6:47 am

unless it's a sensor the car needsto run, like the maf

scottzg · Post by **scottzg** » Thu Oct 23, 2003 6:49 am

maf isnt needed to run, the computer sets a default value for it and throws a code when the maf read way wacky or is disconnected.

vrg3 · Post by **vrg3** » Thu Oct 23, 2003 3:03 pm

A "default value" for the MAF sensor won't work.

Of all the sensors on the engine, the MAF is the most critical to fueling. Fuel injection is based primarily on airflow and speed, and a catch-all number won't work.

Post by **Legacy777** » Thu Oct 23, 2003 3:38 pm

your car will run without the MAF. Try it. Pull the connector on the MAF and start the car. It will start, run like poop and not go over 3-4000 rpm, but it will run.

vrg3 · Post by **vrg3** » Thu Oct 23, 2003 3:48 pm

Right... it uses an n-alpha fueling algorithm, but you won't really be able to tell if the MAF was causing problems or not, since the car will be in limp-home mode anyway.

sigkrist · Post by **sigkrist** » Thu Oct 23, 2003 8:12 pm

Thankes for all the replies

I got 225.000 km on the meter but the engine is model 1993 and im told it has 90.000 km on it.
I cleaned the MAF with a electricspray cleaner (as told by the dealer)
i did not touch it just spray it. and if i disconnect MAF wile engine on it get a lot worse and stops after 10 ti 15 sec.
I got NGK V plugs and im gonna try to put them in. the BOSCH SUPER 4
got four pin all around the tip (not platinium)
And wil get watertemp sensor and try that to.
I got new Knock sensor to day and a water regulator(think thats the name for it) im gonna put it in to night.
I have reset the comp a few times and oly error that i get is 22. after 10 to 15 min of driving
SPEED SENSOR could that be an issue.
When started cold the engine dies for 2 3 times then it runs steady at 900 rpm.
But i get the feeling the chokin on 1500 to 4000 rpm get worse when engine hot. but if i get it over 4000 it goes up to 7500 like a charm.
but i dont want to drive at that rpm speed limit in Iceland is 90km

well im gonna try your ideas and se what happen.

vrg3 · Post by **vrg3** » Thu Oct 23, 2003 9:02 pm

Some electrical contact cleaners leave a residue. You may want to try using brake cleaner to clean the MAF sensor, since it leaves no residue. Remove the sensor from the car, spray it clean (without letting too much pressure hit the senor elements themselves), let it evaporate completely, and reinstall.

Post by **Legacy777** » Thu Oct 23, 2003 11:44 pm

unless the codes are different for your car, code 22 indicates the knock sensor, not the speed sensor.

sigkrist · Post by **sigkrist** » Fri Oct 24, 2003 12:47 am

Thankes for the tip but i now code 22 is the knock sensor i got the code and put new one in cleaned the surface and all

Now i have new thermostat, new oxigene sensor, new knock sensor, new NGK V sparkplugs, new sparkplug threads, replace tempature sens,and i have checked again all conection and wiring hardvere. resett computer, then i went test drivin and after about 3 min i got code 32 (Ox sensor) and after 5 more cel went out. the car still chokes at 1500 to 4000 rpm unless i go really slow on trottle.
and the POWER light seems to com on really quick now ?
I cleaned gently the airmass sensor with brake cleaner. check the gap on spark plugs.

Wondering when computer is resetted does it also resett memorised behavior? or does it take some time..

any more ideas

and thankes again for taking the time to read this and make replies

Greetings
Sigkrist

Post by **Legacy777** » Fri Oct 24, 2003 2:28 pm

You said you put in a brand new O2 sensor correct?

Only thing I can think of is that exhaust is not grounding the sensor properly. Only fix without getting a 4-wire sensor is to run a wire down to the sensor, use a screw type hose clamp, clamp it to the sensor, and then run that wire to a chassis ground some where.

If that doesn't work, then you have a wiring issue some where, or very possible an ECU that is going out.....which is a possibility, and can cause lots of weird stuff to happen.

What do you mean the "power" light comes on really quick? Does it flash, or just come on?

When you reset the computer, you clear all of it's a/f trending data, and the a/f maps go back to preset factory values.

sigkrist · Post by **sigkrist** » Fri Oct 24, 2003 10:22 pm

Yeah i got a brand new o2 sensor, so i will connect extra grount to it

the power light goes on and stay for 8 to 10 sec then goes out agin. it does this even if i go easy on the trottle.

I was talking to the dealer in Reykjavik to day and he seems to think that when my O rings on injector went wrong i got so much fuel in Catalysator (hope its the right name) that i ruiend it. so i guess i try to disconnect exhaust and se what happens

Thankes a lot

Sigurdur

Post by **Legacy777** » Fri Oct 24, 2003 11:26 pm

It's possible that the catalyst is plugged up.

You can try getting some cleaner....it might help clean it out a little. Seafoam works really well. Other thing is to pull a vacuum line and rev engine to like 2-3000 rpm. The run lean condition should elevate combustion temps, and it might burn off some of the carbon on the cat.

You can check to see if the cats are plugged by checking vacuum.

This is the procedure I tried. From what vacuum was doing, you could say my cats are clogged, but I'm sure with the mileage that's on them, they could be replaced.
http://usmb.ultimatesubaru.net/forum/sh ... ged+vacuum

sigkrist · Post by **sigkrist** » Sat Oct 25, 2003 10:35 pm

Thx
I have done the vacum test and vacum vas low so i remove the exhaust but no diffrense in car.
Still choking at 1500 to 4000 rpm.
Im getting diffrend reading on vacum if i mesure from connection to heater or the connection closer to intake (on the intake manifold)
Is the somvere i can find any specs about what vacum should be on difrend rpm.
and how to adjust the BYPASS AIR vent (feels spoky to me)
maybe i just need to tune the engine right.

Also i was testing the resistanse on Trottle sensor and it seems to work wrong way if i use the manual they say mesure 2 and 4 and get 1k closed and 4,3 open. but i get 4,6k closed and o,987k open but if imessure 3 and 4 i get 0,9k closed and 4,7k open.
maybe just a typo error in manual ? becouse i thing that turning wrong way is inpossible..

THAWA · Post by **THAWA** » Sat Oct 25, 2003 11:22 pm

i thik you are supposed to measure 1 and 2 closed it should be 0 and open it should be really high

Post by **Legacy777** » Sun Oct 26, 2003 2:26 am

this is from my manuals

http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8 ... sting1.jpg
http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8 ... sting2.jpg
http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8 ... sting3.jpg

The last scan is the one to use to adjust tps.

sigkrist · Post by **sigkrist** » Sun Oct 26, 2003 6:08 pm

Thx Josh..
I already found my way to your scans

and thx a lot for them they help a lot.
Any thing in the book on what vacum should be in intake manifold
and how to adjust the BYPASS AIR valve.
Im pretty sure that its running rich and getting to much fuel
i still have not found a Air Mass sencor to try but maybe i get it to morrow

Greetings
Siggi

Post by **Legacy777** » Sun Oct 26, 2003 6:09 pm

I think vacuum should be around 19-20 inHG

sigkrist · Post by **sigkrist** » Sun Oct 26, 2003 7:07 pm

Im getting 12 inhg at idle 1000rpm and 18-21 at 4000rpm.
so what could be wrong there ?

Post by **Legacy777** » Sun Oct 26, 2003 9:42 pm

hmmm....yeah, assuming your specs are the same as the US models the EJ22 should have 19.69 inHg at idle with a/c off. The EJ22T should have 19.29 inHg at idle with a/c off.

As for problem.....maybe a vacuum leak or something along those lines......I'm not too sure.

sigkrist · Post by **sigkrist** » Sun Oct 26, 2003 11:11 pm

Yeah thats what i was thinking to. but i checked all vacum lines and got a new gasket for intake.
im really hoping that the BYPASS AIR VALVE is just not tuned right.
but dont now how to set it right.
well unless the intake manifold has a crack in it. thats a loooonnnng shoot but worth taking a look at.
oh by the way whats the diffrence betwen EJ22T and the EJ22M thats in my car. just curios

greetings from the "sunny" iceland still going on +9deg Cel and first day of winter was yesterday

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I think by fixing my EJ22 i messed somthing

I think by fixing my EJ22 i messed somthing