What's the best way to weld shut a TD05 wastegate?

[brweber352]

I just recently went EWG, but the this new turbo is too laggy. It's a 3076r hybrid, but it's based on the old style 14/7 blade, P/N 700177-5013 on the CHRA.

Anyway, I'm going to put the TD05 back on but want to stay EWG. I'm wanting to keep the wastegate flapper shut, but at the same time be able to reverse it it I ever decide to sell it. Should I tack the flapper closed on the flapper, or maybe tack a rod on the outside to turbine housing and the ear where the actuator rod connects?

Any suggestions would be great, I just want the wastegate flapper to stay closed at 18psi, but be easily reversable in the future.

Thanks, Brian

[vrg3]

Would it be silly to just use some mechanic's wire or a nice heavy spring and fasten the wastegate arm closed?

[JZZ30]

leave the wastegate actuator linkage on without hooking up a vacuum source

or

tack weld where the lever hinge pivots in a closed position. When you want to sell it just break the weld off or grind it.

Would it be silly to just use some mechanic's wire or a nice heavy spring and fasten the wastegate arm closed?

a drum brake shoe return spring would do nicely!

[vrg3]

Yeah, I bet it would. I think you need to add an extra spring even if you don't hook the actuator up because the spring in the actuator might not be strong enough to resist the backpressure in the turbine housing at high boost.

[brweber352]

Yeah I thought about just wiring it shut, just wasn't sure if it would hold a nice tight seal. I do have alot of old drum brake springs lying around, so that will probably be my best bet.

Just took the v-band off and it looks like there is a small crack that was hidden under the clamp on the turbine housing. The crack goes around about 1/3 of circumference, I don't see any black sootieness around it so maybe it's just a casting imperfection.

Is this crack/casting flaw normal? I was going to pull the turbine housing and port and polish it while it was out of the car. It's not seperating easy, so I'm scared if I heat it and seperate it it might break and there goes my perfectly good, no shaft play, no oil spitting $160 TD05, at least the turbine housing anyway. Yes, thbis is the Subaru TD05 and I got a great deal on it when the economy tanked, I guess nobody was watchng Ebay at the time.

Any thoughts? Just leave it alone?

Thanks, Brian

[vrg3]

The way I see it, it's not a big deal if it leaks just a tiny bit, is it?

I don't know the answer to your question about the crack. Maybe you could take a picture for some of the more experienced board members.

One thought that comes to mind is that if you do find you would need to heat it up to separate it, you could reinstall the V-band clamp, heat it, let it cool, and then try to disassemble it again. That would basically simulate going for a spirited drive with the turbo installed on an engine before disassembling it, right?

[brweber352]

I got it apart and it is definately a crack, but doesn't seem like it will effect sealing. I might take some pics and ask around before putting back together.

Thanks guys, Brian

[93forestpearl]

I wouldn't tack the wastegate arm. I did, and the sleeve for the pin moved itself. Keep in mind your exhaust backpressure is 1.5 to 2 times your boost pressure.


Grimmspeed actually makes a bracket specifically for this. IF you don't want to spend money, try some of those heavy brake springs.

[brweber352]

I knew exhaust pressure was going to be high, but I didn't know it was 1.5-2 times as much as boost pressure. Good to know, thanks.

The housing has a bad crack on the turbine housing where the v-band attaches, so I may just weld the flapper for now, since it will need a new housing. It was working fine before, so it should be fine. I recall now that when I seafoamed the motor there was a lil smoke coming from the turbo area, even after new gaskets were installed. The O2 readings don't seem to be affected by this small leak, but I'll keep an eye on the O2 readings after install.

I need to get this 3076 hybrid off ASAP! It's real laggy, but on the interstate it is a beast. I pulled away from a Dodge Challenger Hemi(not SRT)at 120 and hit 140 for the first time this morning. Since I don't have foglights or covers, apparently 140mph creates enough pressure to pop the inner fender out, so the passenger side is completely gone now. It also popped out the side marker light when the inner fender came undone, mangeled the bumper brace, but the turn singnal lights stayed put, however it did manage to get unplugged. The driver side inner fender stayed put, but I have a large hole cut out of it for IC plumbing, so I guess it doesn't build as much pressure.

The guy in the challenger was amazed when he pulled up to me on the off ramp,"what's that thing got in it", he asked, "just a 4 cylinder", I replied. I rolled my window up and puttered off in my 1993 Turbo wagon with roof rack, auto tranny, and 168k miles.

I'll pull the plugs and inspect them today along with a compression test. Yes, I was running 17psi with everything maxed out and AFRs were pegged at 10:1. Foolish, yes. Stupid, yes. Outright retarded, yes sir! I have done some datalogging previous to this, and the jecs MAF hits 4.69 Volts at 14.2psi and timing was 25 degrees a 5500rpm.

Nobody under any circumstances should attempt what I did this morning, unless you have good EM or the money to build a new motor. I don't have good EM i've just been very lucky in my endeavors with the old TLeg. I have no idea what EGT was and if it would have detonated it probably would have broke the ring lands or worse.

Brian

[brweber352]

I pulled the plugs and everything looked good. Nice ashy gray, no melted electrodes or cracked insulators. Compression still good, all between 170-175psi. Installed new NGK bk6re11 gapped to .044, even though the old plugs only had 8k miles on them. I like to replace plugs whenever I take them out, cost $2.09 each, why not.

I turned the boost back down to 14 psi and the AFRs are back between 11.3-11.5 WOT, btw I only use Chevron 93 octane E10 blend. LMAO, I still can't believe my inner fender blew out today, there was actually one pin left in it's hole with a lil' bit of the fender still under it.

I need to start another thread about all this stuff, just got all of it off a salvaged 05 STI on Ebay 3 weeks ago.

Thanks to eveyone for their input, most appreciated.

Brian

[93forestpearl]

I'm surprised you're getting away with that large of a plug gap. I was down to .028 with the GT2871R at 23 psi.

[brweber352]

I was running .028 until i upgraded to the MSD DIS-2 and MSD coil, I opened them up to the top of the stock range and never have any problems. I don't leave plugs in very long, 15k miles is the longest i've gone before pulling them. I usually pull them after I change something or do something I shouldn't be doing(like this morning). My plugs are normally around .046 gap after 10k-15k miles.

This is a hybrid Garrett, I think only thing made by garrett is the chra, the compressor side is like stock size inlet of 2.4" and doesn't have any distinctive markings. This is not the new GT series, it's the old 7/14 blade according to p/n 700177-5013 on the chra. From the info I could find, this thing is much older technology and not as great as the new GT series turbos, plus it's stuffed into a stock inlet sized comp housing.

I've got some pics that I'll post up soon along with some questions and what not. Not really gonna know anything until it's back off and I can take it apart. I really didn't even want to install it so soon, but I wanted to make sure it was in good condition before I left feedback for the seller. Basically I got a stock mount EWG uppipe and a Tial 38mm WG w/dump tube and the turbo for $420, I really consider the turbo as FREE. I took the Tial apart and the diaphrgm looks brand new, had the large blue spring(14.5psi) in it but I installed a small red spring(5.8psi) to start off with, then eased my way up to see what was going on.

Another thread coming soon, with pics.

Brian

[brweber352]

Okay, here's a few pics of what I got going on.




















VF-11, TD-04, VF-8, TD-05, Garrett 3076rl or whatever


VF-11, TD-04, VF-8, TD-05, Garrett 3076rl or whatever


Brian