Changing water pump soon...

THAWA · Post by **THAWA** » Tue Nov 04, 2003 11:31 pm

What else should I do at the same time? I'm thinking the upper and lower radiator hoses, thermostat, timing belt, and camshaft seals (last inspection said the seals and water pump were leaking, and I figure I might as well change the thermostat while I'm in there. What all goes on in a camshaft seal replacement? Haynes says, After the timing belt is removed take off the gears on each side, take off the seal retainer on each side, and take out the seal then replace it with the new one, and tap it in lightly with a deep socket and hammer and put everything back together (condensed version)? How will I know how far to put the new seal in? I only ask because haynes is known to have mistakes. If there's anything else I might as well do while I've got that stuff apart let me know.

Also, they said my trans oil cooler line was leaking, (I didn't even know we had those) where exactly is it?

Post by **Legacy777** » Wed Nov 05, 2003 12:08 am

change crank seal too.....& oil pump o-ring as well as check the tightness of the screws on the backing plate.

There is a cooler for the trans inside the normal radiator. You should see the lines on the driver's side of the radiator.

THAWA · Post by **THAWA** » Thu Nov 06, 2003 12:42 am

Should I go ahead and just get a new oil pump? I don't think there's anytthing wrong with it but I don't really want to go through all this stuff again if it fails in like a month or two (knowing my car it probably will)

mTk · Post by **mTk** » Thu Nov 06, 2003 2:27 am

go ahead and replace all the wearing items under there that you can afford. better to get them all now than have em break in a few k miles

MK

THAWA · Post by **THAWA** » Sat Nov 08, 2003 7:54 am

Well today the car got hot again, while I was driving to work, I almost made it there but then my radiator cracked. So horrible, I pulled into the parking lot with hella smoke coming out of the engine bay, nearly broke down and cried right there, but I'm man enough and held it together

Anyway I'm pissed and had to drive home stopping a few times to refill it. So it looks like I'm tacking that onto the things todo list

THAWA · Post by **THAWA** » Sat Nov 08, 2003 8:44 am

Almost forgot, is there any brand of pump i should stay away from? Or are they all pretty much the same?

entirelyturbo · Post by **entirelyturbo** » Sat Nov 08, 2003 1:20 pm

I just got all OEM parts when I did my timing belt/water pump... Not terrible...

evolutionmovement · Post by **evolutionmovement** » Sat Nov 08, 2003 7:28 pm

Go with the OEM, they're not as bad as you might think (in this case, anyway).

Steve

THAWA · Post by **THAWA** » Sat Nov 08, 2003 8:48 pm

Will radiators from other cars, like imprezas or loyals or something fit in ours? and have tranny oil coolers?

THAWA · Post by **THAWA** » Tue Nov 11, 2003 7:34 am

Okay I'm checking this packaging out for the water pump, it's got a thermostat gasket and two waterpump gaskets, do I used them both or just one?

mTk · Post by **mTk** » Tue Nov 11, 2003 9:51 am

Every time i've replaced a water pump in one of my subies i use one gasket on the pump. I also use a high temp sealent on both sides of the gasket, I've never had any issues with leaking etc..

MK

THAWA · Post by **THAWA** » Tue Nov 11, 2003 5:11 pm

THAWA · Post by **THAWA** » Tue Nov 11, 2003 5:38 pm

one more quick question, do I really need to find top-dead-center like the haynes manual says? If so how can i do this without a compression gague?

entirelyturbo · Post by **entirelyturbo** » Tue Nov 11, 2003 5:43 pm

No. Just line the marks on the cams and cranks up, they should all be pointing up, they're a little hard to find, so use the Haynes to know what to look for and when you do find them, put some white paint on them... That's the way I did it, and everything went hunky-dory...

THAWA · Post by **THAWA** » Tue Nov 11, 2003 10:51 pm

harg, how do yu get the main pully off? the one wherer the drive belts are

evolutionmovement · Post by **evolutionmovement** » Wed Nov 12, 2003 1:12 am

Ah, yes the crank pulley - falls off when you want it on, stuck like a nerd's head in a toilet when you want it off.

I used a large Craftsman strap wrench pulled extra tight and braced against the alternator pulley and then a large bar on the socket to get it loose. Damned if that works on the engine in my kitchen, though. I don't know what I'm going to do with that. Maybe a bigger bar...

Steve

entirelyturbo · Post by **entirelyturbo** » Wed Nov 12, 2003 2:04 am

THAWA, are you trying to get the bolt loose? If so, yours is auto, so there is a little cap on your bellhousing somewhere (I don't know where, I have an MT). Take that cap off and you will see the flex plate and torque convertor. Stick a bar in there to hold the engine still. Then get ready to really work to get that bolt loose...

If you already have the bolt loose and you're trying to get the pulley off, try putting a screwdriver in between it and the timing cover and pry it off... I was fortunate in that my pulley fell off in my hand when I took the bolt out...

mTk · Post by **mTk** » Wed Nov 12, 2003 2:30 am

I think the best way to get the crank pulley bolt out in an installed engine is still the breaker bar against alternator pulley method. It hasn't failed me yet.

MK

THAWA · Post by **THAWA** » Wed Nov 12, 2003 2:46 am

I'll have to try that bar on the alt pulley, I think half the problem was i was using an old ass rachet that worked when it wanted to. I would've used my set but didn't have a socket big enough in a 3/8" size. I decided to just wait for it, but gah makes me mad, maybe tomorrow or on the weekend :\
I also tried sticking a screwdriver in the torque converter but it still wanted to keep turning.

evolutionmovement · Post by **evolutionmovement** » Wed Nov 12, 2003 3:31 am

You definitely want something strong as I believe it's torqued on there at up to 120 ft/lbs.

Steve

THAWA · Post by **THAWA** » Wed Nov 12, 2003 7:13 am

O_O, I'm not going to be able to get it back that secure is there a method for doing that?

Post by **Legacy777** » Wed Nov 12, 2003 3:20 pm

If you have an auto, the proper way to do it is as mentioned by putting something in the flex plate. This is simple, and it 100% holds the engine from moving at all....for tightening and loosening......and it won't ruin the alternator bolt either.

ciper · Post by **ciper** » Wed Nov 19, 2003 7:27 am

If you got the car hot and you do all this work Id hate for your headgasket to be bad and need you to do it all over again. Contrary to what I posted in the past leaking headgaskets from overheated ej22 arent so uncommon. I have personally seen many, I even plan to help a buddy get rid of his soon.

THAWA · Post by **THAWA** » Wed Nov 19, 2003 7:33 am

I had been thinking it might be head gasket but didn't want to jinx myself. What are some of the signs of a blown one? I don't see any coolant leaking from that area, but I do smell it when I have the heater on

THAWA · Post by **THAWA** » Thu Nov 20, 2003 12:27 am

Dear god I'm leaking something onto the pass, control arm, if It's coolant from the head i'm going to die

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Changing water pump soon...

Changing water pump soon...

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