Josh, LOL it's no biggie, but if you look at the 3rd post, the 2nd link I posted was about the idle stop switch. I posted it out of order because I recently found out about the resistance not being as important as the idle stop switch itself, LOL.
Rustee, I think we established you got the hang/idle problem under control,right?
Rustee wrote:I might just have to buy a new coolant tank as well, I tried all the local wreckers with no luck. Attempting a more solid fix using a brass hose nipple, some plastic pipe and lots of super glue
![Rolling Eyes :roll:](./images/smilies/icon_rolleyes.gif)
haha.
I am gonna keep my old tank and fix it in a similiar fashion in case of emergency. I was thinking about using a tap and die to make some threads in the tank for a fitting, and maybe use some liquid teflon, high temp RTV, epoxy, or something similar that can handle the heat. Maybe use some epoxy on the outside of where the fitting meets the tank. Probably not needed, unless 13psi is enough to blow the fitting out?
To each his own, this is how I'll probably fix mine. Your's maybe broken completely different than mine.
Rustee wrote:I'll keep that info in mind when I try to clear codes next time. When doing the connector and driving procedure, once you start moving can you stop, go, stop, etc. until you get a full 1min of driving over 7mph? I'm guessing thats how it works but not 100% clear.
If you have an automatic you should be able to do the connector/throttle procedure and just drive untill the CEL starts flashing the all clear, including stop and go. I have done the procedure and driven for like 30 miles in traffic before I disconnected them, you should probably drive easy though. If it's a manual, I think you have to at least upshift into 3rd gear or something.
This is how I normally do mine, it's Automatic Transmission.
Warm engine to operating temp, I usually wait till I get home after work. Turn key to off position, connect both sets of connectors. Turn KOEO(key on engine off), slowly depress throttle all the way down and hold for like 2 secs, slowly return throttle to half way and hold for like 2 secs, slowly return throttle to top. Start engine and idle for like 10 secs, put in reverse and back out of parking spot, put in drive and after 30-50ft(sometimes alot less) the CEL is already flashing the all clear. Re-park car and shut off, unplug both sets of connectors, restart vehicle and let idle for like 10-15 secs, then turn car off. I then usually connect the black connectors just to make sure all the codes are gone.
After I reset the ECU I normally drive easy(no boosting, WOT) for 50-100 miles, so the ECU can relearn a lil'. If I go WOT right after I reset the ECU, I normally get knock and the ECU sets boost to wastegate pressure(which is like 5-6psi), and retards ignition timing.
All this is just stuff I do and some of it may not be needed. This works for me, it may not work for you.
Good Luck,
Brian
93'TLegWag171k StockBlock,TD05,HallmanMBC,530cc,Walbro255,shortram,LWpulley,DIS-2,MSDcoil,cxrFMIC,trans cooler/external filter,WRX wheels/brakes,CES w/Borla muffler,QTP elec cutout,REVchip2,KYB GR2,GroupN tops/all fr bushings,STImounts,GSD3 tires,LM-1,etc