New Subaru owner with a transmission question.

[HankG]

This is actually the fourth forum I've posted this question on as I keep getting pointed to other forums when I ask it. I don't think this is really the right forum for my question since my car is slightly out of the year range here, but I figured I might as well try since someone recommended it.

Last night I bought my first Subaru, a 1995 Legacy Outback. It has an EJ22E engine and a TY752VAAAA transmission, which needs to be replaced. I'm trying to find the specific year ranges and models that have compatible transmissions. From the research I've done between registering new forum accounts, it seems like I can use any 5MT push clutch transmission with a 4.111 gear ratio. If that is the case, then this list (http://www.gearhack.com/docs/Subaru%20T ... 0Chart.pdf) should have all the transmissions that I can use. Am I correct or am I missing something? I really don't know anything about Subarus and want to make sure I don't buy the wrong transmission.

Thanks for any help.

[Legacy777]

Welcome to the BBS.

You are pretty much right with your statement. The push style manual trans really has not changed much over the years. As long as you get one to match the rear diff that is in the car, you should be good. One thing to note is that the later years went to a 6-bolt engine trans mount vs. a 4-bolt setup. So I'd suggest verifying that before you purchase one. I have heard you can use the 6-bolt trans on the 4-bolt engine without too much issue though.

[canubaru]

the 95 ej22 outback 5 speed should have the same trans gearing (not too familiar with the push vs. pull clutch) and the same final drive ratio, 3.9, as the non outback of that same year.

clutch not withstanding, it should also be a match to any legacy L, LS, brighton (not outback, GT, or LSi) 5 speed trans from 95 - 98, maybe 99. again, i'm not sure about the clutch types and whan they may have changed from one to another.

so in a nut shell, you can use a 5 speed trans 95 - 98 from a 2.2L lego car with your clutch type.

(no 2.5L cars they all have a different final drive ratio. and i have read that a competent mechanic can change a push clutch to a pull clutch or vice versa. the castings / housings are all the same you just have to dill and tap a bolt hole and set the fork on the correct pivot point. the trans case already has both pivot points.)

hope this helps.

[Legacy777]

... i have read that a competent mechanic can change a push clutch to a pull clutch or vice versa. the castings / housings are all the same you just have to dill and tap a bolt hole and set the fork on the correct pivot point. the trans case already has both pivot points.)

hope this helps.

This is not correct. You cannot change a push style clutch to a pull style clutch. Here are some pictures that show the two different setups.

Pull Style

http://main.experiencetherave.com/subar ... P_4934.JPG
http://main.experiencetherave.com/subar ... P_5921.JPG
http://main.experiencetherave.com/subar ... P_5923.JPG
http://main.experiencetherave.com/subar ... P_5949.JPG

Push Style

http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/ima ... P_3077.JPG


With that being said....if you look closely at the two transmissions, I think it "might" be possible to go from pull to push. You would have to tap the correct boss for the pivot ball, and you would likely have to cut out the driver's side collar for the pull style clutch fork's pivot. I think it would get in the way of the push style clutch fork.

What you may have been thinking of is going between cable & hydraulic clutches with the push style clutch. The two use different clutch forks and one uses the top boss for the pivot ball, while the other uses the lower boss for the pivot ball.

[HankG]

Thanks a ton for the replies. Of the four forums I ended up posting on, this was the only one that answered my question.

Canubaru, you said my final drive should be 3.9, but that chart says it's 4.111. I think the chart is going off manufacturing date since the chart lists the car as a 94 Outback, which may be the confusion.

[canubaru]

josh that's for the correction, i hate post bad info.

hank, the 95 outback was a 95 legacy with an outback trim package, paint and options. in 94 the non turbos had a 4.11 in the manual and a 3.9 in the auto trans. in 95, at some point (6/95 build date, i think), they reversed the final drive ratios. 95 - 99 legacy L was 3.9 manual and 4.11 auto. and these cars had 14" wheels the same as the 94s.

in 96 they introduced the 2.5L engine in the outbacks and the GTs. they also introduced the 4.11 final drive in the 2.5L manual trans and the 4.44 in the 2.5L auto trans.

now i'm not 100% sure your is a 3.9 final drive, but i have done a fair amount of research on auto trans compatibility and i have never heard of a 95 auto with a 3.9 final drive which is what is would be if the manual were 4.11.

you may find some info at the link below. find your year, engine , trans and see if you can find your trans code number, the look for the ring and pinion for that same car. the diff will be listed under ''train''.

http://opposedforces.com/parts

if you search for a rear diff at http://www.car-part.com for 95 manual they only show 3.9 as a final drive offering. this is not a guarantee, but is does support my info.

[canubaru]

clearly the chart you linked shows the ratio in your trans to be 4.11. but i don't think it is accurate. i can find no info to support this. now i could be wrong, i was earlier in this thread, but i think i'm right.

the 95 outback is a second generation legacy. second gen legos had a 3.9 ratio in the 5 speed trans, all of them, no variation. (not counting 2.5L cars)

let me know if you find anything different.

call the dealer, tell the parts guy you think you busted you ring and pinion. give him you vin and trans code numbers and ask for a part number and price on replacement parts. i will be very surprised if i'm wrong. but i will gladly admit it, and learn something. i hate posting wrong info.

[HankG]

Canubaru, I checked all the resources you provided and they do seem to indicate that my transmission is 3.9. I think I will have to call the dealer to get this worked out, although I think it's too late today. By the way, I'm not sure if it matters, but my car has 15" rims, not 14". I mention the wheels because the opposed forces site, in the vehicle that has the TY752VAAAA transmission, it says it should have 14" wheels. I don't know if my wheels are the ones that came with the car, but they are OEM Subaru.

[canubaru]

i guess it is possible that they put a 94 trans and rear diff in your car. if you search car-pat.com for a 94 auto trans you may come across a vendor that lists the trans code number, some do. and that is how i tracked down a lot of auto trans codes for the late 90s. the software on the site does not recognize that 96 outback trans will fit in a 97 outback because they have different ''code numbers'', but it does fit and runs with no problem.

but the dealer should know for sure.

however, you can use what ever trans you find a deal on (clutch not withstanding) as long as the rear diff matches. so when in doubt, get the rear diff out of the same car as the trans. it will be more $$ and more work but it will bolt in and run fine.

let me know what you learn.

your 15" wheels are probably stock, tires are probably 195/60/15, which matches the legacy 185/70/14s. (check www.cars101.com for more info on your 95 outback.)
i don't think they used the ''taller'' outback struts until 96 when they introduced the ej25 and the 205/70/15 tires as stock. but i'm not sure, i've never looked up a 95 outback strut.

[HankG]

The tires are 196/65/15, but one of the previous owners probably just got a better deal on those than they would have on the stock size. I called the dealership, but apparently their parts and service department is closed on weekends. Decided to just stop being lazy and do it the old fashioned way. Jacked up a wheel, spun it ten times (which, if you'll pardon my whining a bit, was a real bitch since I could only use one arm and the rear calipers are sticking), divided the drive shaft rotations by five and ended up dead on 3.90.

I am really grateful to you for catching the mistake in the chart; it saved me a lot of money and time. Unfortunately, it reduces the number of compatible transmissions unless I spend extra on the rear differential. Ah well, I'll get this Subaru running eventually.

[canubaru]

it reduces the number of compatible transmissions unless I spend extra on the rear differential.

not a lot, there are tons of legacys (and imprezas, did i forget to mention the the impreza 5 speed is the same as the legacy, late 90s) out there that have bad engines or been wrecked, or ate up by rust.

where are you located?

i'm glad i could help. let us know what you end up finding.

john

[canubaru]

or , regardless of what trans you buy, buy a VLSD (locking rear diff about 100$ - 150$ at http://www.car-part.com) from an '03 era car with the matching ratio and then just smile!!

EDIT: i forgot to ask, what's wrong with your trans?

[HankG]

A LSD is tempting, but I'm not really the racing type and I live in a relatively temperate area. :p The transmission has lost the higher gears. Reverse, first, and second work pretty well, third will grab but is hard to find, and fourth and fifth won't grab at all.

I'm in Humboldt County, which is extreme northern California. Vehicles rust a bit with the sea air, but nothing like you see in the salt belt.

By the way, I have no idea when the timing belt was last changed. I think it was relatively well taken care of until it sat, but for all I know it's still the original belt. Since it is a non-interference engine, if it snaps, it won't do any real damage, right? I'll just have to replace the belt?

[canubaru]

i've done some research and it seems you should be avle to use the following 5 speeds, assuming the clutch type matches up.

impreza
95 - 97 ej18
96 - 98 ej22 (maybe 99 - 01)

legacy 95 - 98 (maybe 99 - 01)

but when you find one you like, double check regardless.

[Legacy777]

You should be able to look on your differential and determine it's final drive ratio. If it's not on the back cover, there will be another stamp on the webbing of the diff.

http://main.experiencetherave.com/subar ... f_info.pdf

The actual markings may be different, but are likely the same.

[HankG]

To give an update, I ended up bringing home my transmission tonight, along with the rest of a car too. Drove my new '96 Legacy 100 miles to get it home and it did it pretty well. The transmission is about 120k miles old and needs a new input shaft bearing (or something like that; it was a minor replacement), and it also had a clutch job at some point. It shifted great the whole trip. The engine is iffy. It doesn't sound or look too bad, but the car is pretty underpowered, so it might need some work. Body is bad, interior is usable with serious cleaning, seems mechanically perfect otherwise. The car only cost me $300, and I'm trying to decide if I should part it out to make some money back (has nice tires on it), or just shove it in a hidden corner somewhere and keep it for if my 95 Legacy ever needs any more parts.

[94LegWagon]

Shove it in a corner for parts, you must have room up there in humboldt