my 22t build

[Mt.HOODrat]

so i have began the quest for more power in my mica red 94 22t TW.

i got my fivespeed, diff, clutch parts, and driveline, so itll be more fun.

i decided against doing a dohc swap or a wrx swap, too much work for a car im giving to my lady when im done saving for my 2.5rs and SS leggy play car. i bought this one because it was clean, and we need a wagon for daily shit. (really handy vehicle)
the engine is in great shape, no leaks no overheating, it has 120k original and im the second owner!
i pretty much just want a lil more power, i dont expect crazy gains, but this is my list so far:

arp headstuds
oem headgaskets
water pump
oil pump
timing belt, etc
up pipe,
down pipe
3in back
td04 wrx turbo
gc8 FMIC
440 wrx injectors/na rails
MBC
aftermarket MAF
some sort of tune

thats about the extent of my research for a bolt on 22t. i decided to not do a full rebuild due to the low miles, am i right in thinking i can just reuse the heads without resurfacing them? if i remove them with the reverse tq pattern will they not warp? will i be ok just throwing new gaskets and ARP studs on them?

i dont expect nothing crazy from this setup, but what do you guys think it could put down pwer wise?

also, any suggestions to my mod list would be much appreciated!

[beatersubi]

Its always a good idea to resurface heads before re-installation.
I don't think the head studs are necessary if you're not pushing big power.
If you change injector size and MAF, you will need tune-ability to make them work. Do you have an aftermarket MAF in mind? I haven't seen one available.
The stock up pipe is sufficient, it is catless. A bellmouth 3" downpipe is a good upgrade.

[Mt.HOODrat]

ive always thought that you should resurface heads as well, but id thought id ask. since its a fairly small head design i wondered.

arp headstuds are just a great product and i like to think they are stronger and more reliable than stock headbolts. always used them in all my honda b series builds. i want to run a lil higher boost so its cheap piece of mind.

yeah i wanted a 3'' BM dp

if there are no MAFs availiable, what do people do? i dont want to be anywhere near the fuel cut, and an upgraded MAF sounds more appealing than a FCD.

im still not sure what to do tuning wise, i came from a honda background where 0bd1 was the desired platform for affordable tuning like Hondata, chrome, neptune, etc. then i go subie and theres nothing for obd1 short of a 1000+ standalone. are there affordable tuning solutions for these obd1 subies? man i had s300 hondata for my b series civic and it did alot for around 500 bucks... 2-step, boost by gear, full datalogging, etc.

i pretty much just want to be able to run the 440's, safetly run 1 bar, and get the most from my setup.

[wtdash]

Hi,
My .02....leave the engine alone (otherwise stock EJ22T, correct?), other than the maintenance items you've listed. The EJ22T can easily handle your power goals.....if you go bigger - 550's/TD05, then maybe you need to dig into the engine's innards - but many on here don't.

Add your 440s/TD04/IC/DP/JECS MAF (from an NA Legacy) and get the Rob tuned EJ20 ECU. You can run 1+ Bar and put 50+ - @ least - to the wheels....and you won't have to spend $$ on a tuner, like you would w/a piggy-back or stand-alone EM....edit: Fuel cut is 13psi on a stock ECU.

FWIW, I'm running the same setup - w/a TMIC - and made 180/230WheelHP (50 more than stock) @ 16.5psi w/the Revtronix chip, which is no longer avl. new.

TD

[NICO]

you can resurface the heads but if the motor runs fine there is no need. lol and it does not matter how you pull the head bolts off.

[Legacy777]

I would agree, I wouldn't bother pulling the heads unless you have issues. Tuning is going to be your biggest issue. I would also recommend Robtune's ECU's. They're really the best bang for your buck without a lot of headache & cost. There just isn't shit out there that works well without costing some money and is supported for the OBD1 platform.

[NICO]

^ what he said also