steering rack replacement -- done

[cbose]

Just a quick followup to my leaking steering system woes.

Local dismantler had lots of good, used racks and recommended
a low mileage impreza rack. Two fitment issues: new model racks
have a variable gear ratio (which doesn't matter) and different
alignment of inlet and return pipes (which does). Later racks also
matched with a different PS pump which MAY matter.
Also, most of the racks he had had straight tie rod ends, while
mine had 'C' shaped ones. Wasn't sure if this would be a problem
but in the end the straight ends fit fine with lots of clearance.

After I did the job, I got a peek at the Haynes manual section.
Mostly, the job went exactly as described there EXCEPT

1. It IS probably worth the time to take of the front exhaust assembly
for easier access
2. It IS a good idea to get the two little o-rings for the inlet/return lines
before you start. I reused mine, which looked ok, but the lines
are so hard to get at you wouldn't want to do it twice.
3. It is not necessary to remove torsion bar. There is one hydraulic
line on the rack that may hang up. Just disconnect the line at the
rack end and it will slide past
4. factory torque on all the hydraulic fittings was VERY HIGH. Make sure
you have good wrenches of the right size before you start! I can't
imagine they need to be that tight.
5. After install, check that none of the steel lines are touching anything. two
of mine met together, probably from a bit of rough handling at the yard.
6. Drain the rack and pump first by disconnecting one of the low lines (see 3)
7. Tie rod ends come off easily the 'old fashioned way' with a hammer. Make
sure you know how to do this and NEVER hammer on the threaded end
or the castle nut.

Start to finish: maybe 4 hours, working alone and with lots of lazy time cleaning
up the mess my previous leaky rack left all over the lower engine bay. No special
tools required.

Chris

[ciper]

Nice, I used a 97 legacy GT rack on my 90. Regarding the rack matching a pump, did you notice less assist? What year did your replacement come from?

[cbose]

I don't know what year my rack came from but there was no change in the feel
of rack compared to my old one.

The dismantler I used had maybe 25 racks hanging in a neat frame and let me
take my pick. He only suggested that I stay away from some of the newer
model ones that had 'progressive gear ratios', different style pumps (he
showed me a pump and it has a different shaped reservoir' and different
plumbing angles for the high and low P. lines. If you notice a change in
steering effort, maybe you got a progressive rack? I think he was mostly
worried about the plumbing -- he told me he tried to do the modified
plumbing once and it was a nightmare.

I wanted something cheap and tight. He DID say that if I planned to keep the
car long (I don't) that he would suggest to swap in a newer WRX rack and
pump together for a 'really nice unit'. But I remember the pump had to
go with the rack and together is was something like $400 bucks, while
the one I went with was only $150 (or about $80 US)

Chris

[vrg3]

My 97 Legacy GT has much less steering assist than the BC/BF Legacies I've owned. I guess it's because of the rack, since ciper got the same effect by swapping the rack.

I wish I could get that feel in my turbo... Would a WRX rack actually fit? I thought the WRX sedans had a slightly wider track or something.

[ciper]

Even if the WRX had a wider track I bet the adjustments have plenty of room to take up the slack.

I have not seen racks plumbed any different, just that the pressure line has to match the pump. Im pretty sure even the later pumps are the same with the exception of the sensor (which isnt needed).

[vrg3]

Hmm, yeah, you're probably right, considering how much you can adjust toe.

In what way does the pressure line have to match the pump? Just in the type of threaded fitting?

[ciper]

vrg3: No, they actually have vastly different attachment styles. Some use a flair pipe with a threaded collar. Some use a banjo bolt with an angle pipe while others use a banjo bolt with a pipe running parralel to the pump shaft and taking a quick 135 degree turn.

[vrg3]

Woah, I never realized that. That's outside the realm of reasonable adaptability.

What's the sensor you referred to above?

[G-reg]

cbose, you said it is worth the time to remove the front half of the exhaust. I'm swapping in a new-to-me rack soon and noticed the Haynes manual said remove exhaust if necessary. Did you remove it, or is your recommendation from wrestling the rack with it in. With my 180mi+ it is not going to be fun to try and take the headers out. Is that recommendation more for turbo and 2.5 subes? Without turbo plumbing or 2.5 heads and the geo-sized header tubing, is it possible with a 2.2? Thanks

[THAWA]

If you are only talking about unbolting the exhaust from the heads that's easy(I didn't even have to use a breaker bar or force with a regular socket wrench), but if it's something else then I dunno.

[BAC5.2]

Does anyone know if the steering setup from an STi would swap over?

I would LOVE to have 2.5 turns lock to lock in my 94...

[G-reg]

The headers come off the heads easily, that's good to hear. Are most of them like that or are you lucky. What about the connection to the Cat right after the horribly restrictive bend where the drivers side of the heads connects. Is there much play if I just disconnect the heads from the headers?

[THAWA]

subylvr said his came off just as easily so I think they're all like that. They're only supposed to be torqued down to something like 20 lb/ft. As far as the connections after that, i honestly don't know. I tried to remove the heatshields and it was a pain in the butt, but I haven't tried disconneting the actual headers from the exhaust. It does fall down a bit if you just remove the headers from the heads. With my car flat on the ground I had about 3-4 inches from the ground with the headers disconnected.

[entirelyturbo]

Yeah, all you need is a socket wrench and a pipe extension and the nuts on the manifolds should come off no sweat.

The best way to get tie-rods off the knuckle is simply to buy a tie-rod removal tool . It looks like a big tuning fork, with the two prongs getting progressively thinner towards the ends. You just wedge it in between the knuckle and tie rod and hit on the end of it and the tie-rod will pop right out.

[G-reg]

Ok here's what I learned. The header bolts have to come off, depending on how stuck your o2 sensor and the bracket by the cat are I'd pop them off too. Mine were going nowhere while on jackstands. The roll bar is only two bolts that are a million times easer to remove and reinstall than the one line cbose talked about, and it makes a bit of room that I think you really need on the passenger side. After doing it the hard way, I found that by taking the tie rod end off the driver’s side of the rack. Drop it down as far as you can and slid it to the passenger’s side until the drivers side of the steering arm can drop through the headers, or cross member if you totally removed the headers. And then slide the rack back to the driver’s side and through the headers. My Haynes says to go through the passenger wheel well, good luck maybe other cars are different but I can’t see that happening on mine. It took me about 6 hours, mainly because I was in an unheated garage with the front end on jack stands. I still can’t feel a few fingertips. I had to have a shop clean up the threads on the new steering rod ball joint - driver’s side, junk yard had them kind of messed up. One other hang-up, my driver’s side wheel would not come off, I thought it was frozen (like cold frozen), so I put a space heater on it-didn’t help. So I soaked the hub and lug studs with some penetrating oil, still nothing. The last time the wheel was off was when I had the drive axle replaced on that wheel. I did the whole thing with that wheel on. I’ll let him know when I take it in to be aligned. I didn’t have time to fill and bleed, or go for a test drive. When I get it back from the alignment I’ll give my opinion on the White Line bushings. To those who got the drivers side bushing in with the rack in the car…..golf clap.

[G-reg]

Post alignment the car steers awesome. I’ve been driving on a blown out rack for a few weeks, so the Whiteline/new rack feel awesome. I didn’t think my bushings would cause much a difference because the old ones didn’t feel too soft or worn out. But there is definitely a difference. The car used to have a dead on center feel, like my old Volvo’s. Now it feels like any movement in the wheel causes the same movement at the wheels. Now it’s time for a strut tower brace I have developed a clunk since the rack swap..........it’s always something. It seems to come from the front right when the suspension extends into a bump. I’m going to re-check the rack and swaybar mounting bolts, hopefully it’s one of those and not a new problem. The ball joints in the new rack felt in good shape, could there be something in my new/used rack that could clunk like that. I can't feel it through the steering and I don't get thrown off track. I'll have to do some investigating, any help would always be appreciated.

[cbose]

I've been away for a bit and not followed up properly. Good on you to all those who've been replacing steering racks recently! As you have found out, it's not particularly hard to do. Can I answer a couple of questions that have come up. First, a 'pickle fork' is not a great way to remove the rod ends if you want to reuse them. I find it usually messes up the boots, and it certainly puts a lot of stress on the joint. The 'old fashioned way' I mentioned is to take two great big hammers, use one as a backup and whack the side of the control arm where the tie rod taper runs through it. A couple of good sharp blows and the joint pops apart. The idea is to shock the taper just a bit so it breaks free. If anyone wants a more complete description, just ask. Second, I dropped the exhause from the manifolds back to the center joint. It all came free very easily. My only hesitation is that the unit is HEAVY and awkward to do by yourself. But it can be done with a little care. Make sure you are using JACKSTANDS -- you gotta be right under there and my have to pull a bit to free things up. As far as removing lines, well, it's a matter of taste I guess. I wanted to fully drain the rack before I took it out. The easiest way is to break open a line -- if you choose the right one, you don't have to remove the sway bar.

The clunk is a bit of a concern. I'd put it back on jackstands and do a good inspection for play somewhere. Mounting bolts, rack ends, freeplay at straight ahead. The works. This should have been picked up by the alignment shop, no? What did they say?

If anyone is interested, I did a rebuild on my power steering PUMP this weekend. I'll post what I found out on the thread over in the engines section that already exists. The upshot is, make sure you have alternate transportation.

Chris