need help with head gasket....

[mrmcq]

So I have most everything torn down, except timing cover and components inside. I have a question though: do I need a special tool to keep the crankshaft from spinning while loosening the pulley bolt? Is there another way to get this off? I have been trying everything.


Side note:
It seems that the shop that did the timing belt and water pump a couple years ago, screwed up major. Several of the cover "Nuts" were overtightened and the pressed in nuts spin freely and some are even broken. Where is the best place to find a set of new covers? (I am still researching this part.)

Thanks.

[mrmcq]

Ok got the bolt off using a Big @$$ screwdriver to hold the flex plate while breaking torque with breaker bar. But now I'm stuck again... Is there a trick to removing the pulley? (after the bolt is out of course...)

[subydaddy]

Not sure if the motor is out of the car but I always spray some penetrating oil on the crank/pulley . Then with a soft blow hammer just tap on the pulley, whichever way you're able to get the hammer on it. Then with your hands just pull and wiggle. Repeat tap, wiggle, pull. Itll take a while but eventually it should just come off. Helps if you have gloves.

Is this the stock pulley? Is this a turbo? Do you need a pair of headgaskets, got some for cheap.

[Legacy777]

Yeah you'll have to tap and wiggle the pulley off the crankshaft.

Regarding the timing belt covers, I'd suggest posting a WTB thread in the parts shed forum. The non-turbo covers fit, they just don't say turbo on them.

[mrmcq]

Thanks forgot to update yesterday, but that's exactly what I did to get them off. But again I have been held up. Heads were off, I resealed the Camshaft ends because It looked like they were seeping oil out, put new head gaskets on and installed the heads hand tight. My torque wrench is a 1/2" drive and I don't have 12 point 1/2 drive sockets, so looks like a trip to the tool store for either a drive adapter or a socket.

Set back #2 one of the T connectors coming from the rear passengers side of the block broke, but it looks like it wasn't the first time. It looks like it was shattered once before and glued together. so Yet another part to buy, awesome...

#3 going to post on WTB for the timing chain cover, hopefully someone has one they will go of for cheap.

[wtdash]

If the engine is out, don't forget that rear baffle/separator plate....it usually leaks. There's an updated metal plate and screws - dealer only, I believe....not sure if people have had success just resealing the original one.

But don't touch the rear main seal unless you're sure it's leaking and you're good @putting seals in...it's a PITA.

TD

[mrmcq]

I wanted to pull the engine, but didn't have access to any hoists/cranes. I had access to plenty of stands, so I'm basically just fixing what I can reach. The passenger head wasn't too bad but the drivers side was a PITA to remove and install. gotta try and source the covers soon and for cheap so I can put this back together. Does anyone have an idea what the T-connector is for that is on the rear of the block on the passenger side? it comes straight up out of the block by the transmission, my guess is crankcase breather. And I'm assuming it's dealer only part because parts store had no idea, and of course they had no pictures of it...

I think I have oil leaking from the crank pulley as well but I don't think that seal came in my kit. which is fine because I'm not really sure on how to replace that anyway. might just have to let it leak until something else goes and I get a rebuild kit.

[wtdash]

BTW - What exactly are you working on - year/model/engine?

If it's leaking @ the crank pulley it's likely the oil pump seal - pretty common. HERE IS A LINK to resealing the oil pump...you might as well do this...not tough, just make sure you clean it up well and don't use too much sealant. All EJ-series engines oil pumps should be the same - just the size of the oil pump differs a bit.

Is the T-connector visibile in this pic of an EJ22T - not sure what you're referring to:


td

[mrmcq]

Good to know, Can't really see it in the picture you posted, I will take pics tonight when I get home from work, but that won't be until 7:30 Pacific... Damn 12 hour Shifts...

IIRC it between the Hoist and the IACV (i think that's what it's called)

[wtdash]

and a pic of the back of a NA '95 EJ22 (w/EGR and different harness, but same block), since we still don't know what you're working on.



And the PCV diagram if it helps (thanks to VRG3):

[mrmcq]

Sorry it's a 1990 ej22, and that's the T right there buy the rear eyelet (hoist point).

[wtdash]

The 'T' in my EJ22 NA pic is someone's custom job, although it does exactly the same thing. You'll need to order this from the dealer.

This is for the '95+, but I 'think' the only difference is the newer ones are angled up???? You'll need a piece of hose from the block port to the connector.


Oh, it's Friday and i'm bored..not usually this helpful...so dont' 'expect it' .
Td

[H4_Deucer]

If you remove the oil pump, check the screws on the backside to make sure they are still tight, they like to work themselves loose over time.

[mrmcq]

Sort of ressurection here, still having issue of overheating but it's wierd... my drive to work about 10 miles and 15-20 mins. the subie runs just fine stays cold everything is perfect. But on my way home, I have to take a longer route due to military gates closing at certain times and what not, anyways it's about 15 miles and a good 25-30 min drive. the issue I have is very strange. most of the route home it runs at normal temp (gauge in the middle) but towards the end the needle creeps up to hot. I also noticed other issues. on the way home I also have the pesky "stop light" come on when I hit the brakes. strange because the light doesn't come on during my morning drive... Could I possibly have an electrical issue and not an overheating issue?

FYI I replaced the thermo with the OEM Subaru genuine one from the dealer, cost me $20. I am starting to get very frustrated with this dang car... so here is a list of everything that has been changed and a history of what I know:
Changed:
1. all cooling hoses
2. radiator cap
3. Thermostat
4. new coolant (about 3 times)
5. head gaskets
history:
Water pump changed 10-15k ago, about 2-3 years ago.

[H4_Deucer]

Has the radiator been checked for restrictions at all? A quick and easy way to check is to wait for the fans to come on, then hold a piece of paper in front of the grill and it should get sucked up against the grill if the radiator is clear. Also, when the headgaskets were done, were the heads and block measured for warpage? If not, the new headgaskets are not going to seal properly.

[mrmcq]

block wasn't measured but I checked the heads and they looked good. while I had the radiator out I flushed inside with garden hose, and sprayed through the fins of the radiator. I assume the fans run like my honda does, 1 runs off the coolant temp and the other runs with the A/C compressor? correct me if wrong. Drivers fan comes on when it heats up the other does not, and either the AC compressor is locked or the system needs servicing because it will not kick on (not really worried though cuz it doesn't get hot enough here in washington for me to need AC).

[H4_Deucer]

So the car is a 90? IIRC subaru had problems with blocks in 1990, I have worked with someone that had this same problem before and after doing the head gaskets and resurfacing the heads, it turned out that he had a small crack in the block. I guess you could have an electrical issue, it is a 21 year old car, the only way to tell is to ohm check the components and wiring and see if you have high resistance or opens on any of the circuits. I assume that you have already checked the brake fluid level? That could be as simple as the float just getting stuck in the master cylinder.

[evolutionmovement]

Could be the temp sensor giving the wrong reading. There are two. One runs the gauge, the other is for the ECU. You could also have an obstruction somewhere in the block or heads.

[RedDevil-90]

Just curious, how much should I expect to pay for a head gasket repair? My 1990 Legacy L isn't overheating yet, and slowly loses coolant which I've been topping off. I was quoted $1200 to $1600... is this a fair price? I believe the mechanic said that they replace all the belts, valve cover and head gaskets, plugs, etc.

[kimokalihi]

I paid I think about $370 on head gaskets, oil pump and all the misc seals including cam and crank seals. Those were OEM parts from subaru and I did the job myself. $800-$1,200 on labor...gross. I would never pay someone to work on my car but if I did I sure as hell wouldn't pay them that much. They're almost certainly going to use cheap aftermarket parts that are crap quality to cut the price of parts down to probably half and I doubt they'll even bother with the oil pump.

[evolutionmovement]

I don't know what the book says, but it shouldn't even take 8+ hours for a slightly experienced regular guy in his driveway unless there's beer breaks involved. Was that the dealer? If it wasn't, you might as well get a quote from them. I don't think even they charge that much around here.

[RedDevil-90]

The shop I took it too has stellar reviews across the board, and I don't have the tools, time or place to do this kind of work, otherwise I'd try it myself. So, from what you're telling me, I should shop around then. I'm guessing OEM parts are what I want to be used in something like this yeah? Any ask about the oil pump being replaced too?

[kimokalihi]

You absolutely want to use OEM parts. Buy them yourself, can't trust anyone else unless it's the dealership.

[evolutionmovement]

I'm in agreement. Shops make money off jacking up part costs also. The cheaper they get the part, the more money they make. It's a big reason for them pushing the "Right to Repair" bill here in MA—they claim they don't have access to information the dealers have. True or not, and I haven't personally seen anything that the independent shops can't get besides maybe security codes or ECU software (which I don't believe the OEMs should have to give out), a big driver behind it is the ability to buy cheap shit, probably remanufactured, parts made in China instead of a lot of parts that they have to get through the dealers now. I usually side with the little guy, but earlier radio ads by the independents claimed that they were trying to give you (the consumer) the right to have your car serviced anywhere and not void the warranty, and that's complete BS because thats already the law here. And with that lie, they lost my support.

[H4_Deucer]

I was getting 12 hours to do a head gasket job at the dealer, another dealer I worked for, I would get 17 for the DOHC engines. Warranty pays 8 hours to do both head gaskets, and the quickest I have done it is a little over 4 and a half hours. Most shops will go off of alldata or mitchell times which are still around the same, at around $100 and hour for labor, you can figure the rest.