Stage 0 rebuild and Rob Tune (now with stroker build inside)

[subytech]

So I recently burn't a valve in #1 cyl in one of my legacy RS head. So, concidering that my block has 251,000 miles on it I've decided to do a more or less stock rebuild/refresh and slap on some newer 20g heads.

The plan, replace all the engine bearings and re-ring the stock pistons, install the 97 20g heads that I just purchased and install all the upgrades needed to put in the Rob tune ECU that showed up the day that I determined I had the burn't valve I will be trying to document as I go, but I'm horrible at this type of thing so hopefully I can keep up with my own progress.

A couple of questions first. So I work at a dealer and I priced out all the bearings and ring kit and it was kinda expensive even with my discount, so I started looking online for parts. I noticed ACL standard bearings seem to be insainly cheap compaired to OEM. I've always heard good things about ACL but the price difference is a little concerning to me. Should I go with the ACL's or just stick with the OEM bearings? Also with the ring kit, should I get an OEM kit or does anyone have any experience with aftermarket ring kits? I'm trying to do this as inexpensivly as possible, not to be confused with as cheap as possible. I'm not going to be cutting corners I just want a reliable, fun motor. Not trying to break any HP or track records here. Thanks!

Edit: Also anyone have any advise on what ACL bearings I should get if I go with them? I know they have the +0.001" clearance bearings. I will be running Rotella t6 5w-40 oil and am considering an STi 11mm oil pump upgrade if needed.

1/5/12-Ok so all these plans have gone out the window, now I'm going to do a full stroker build. Going to get Rob to do a chip swap to accommodate added compression ratio of the stroker. Just going to take more time and $$$. Not going to do much outside the motor yet, but I figured I might as well get the groundwork set for a bigger turbo and such since I'm going in this deep anyway. I'm still going to do my best to document my progress still. So here's to jumping in with both feet!

[subytech]

Pics of the head




All the junk in the cumbustion chamber is from some leaking valve stem seals that I was being way to lazy to take care of. I think I have an extra valve laying arond here so I'm going to try and clean these heads up and sell them. I also have a set of early coils that are in great condition that I'm not goting to be able to use. If anyone is interested let me know.

On a side note this new iPhone is amazing! Hopefully it will help me be more diligant about recording my progress!

[Falken-18c]

if you use those 20g heads all oem parts stock rebuild with a standalone and a good size turbo i heard you could get 300-350hp reliable i was thinking of getting all new oem gaskets seals and bearings and doing this. also what were the oem prices compared to acl.

[subytech]

Well I'm not quite using a standalone, just a robtune ECU. I would like to upsize my turbo some day but for right now I'm going to sit tight with my ported TD04. There is about a $120 differince between the ACL's and OEM and again thats with my employee's discount! I'm shooting for stock STi power levels, should make a fun and fairly competitive auto-x car for my class, and I need to work on my driving skills before I think about much more power.

[Falken-18c]

im thinking of geting all oem gasket seals and bearings and i can get a v4 sti engine with every thing even ecu im thinking my 22t block all oem stock build then slap the v4 heads intake manifold turbo and run the v4 ecu maybe get a td05 turbo idk but that should be good for some power.

[Falken-18c]

also for $120 difrence i say stick with oem. some one on heres quote cheap quality aint good. good quality aint cheap.

[Legacy777]

I used ACL race bearings on my last motor build. I'm not sure why there is such a huge price difference, but ACL does supposedly make good bearings.

Are you planning on having the cylinders bored/honed? You should at the very least have the cylinders honed so that the new rings will seat properly. The piston to cylinder wall clearance will likely be a little outside of the factory specs. Depending on how much, you should consider getting oversized pistons & rings. On my first rebuild I just had the cylinders honed and put stock size pistons in. The clearance was a tad outside spec, but I don't think it really made a big deal. I did not have the heads & deck resurfaced, and that turned around and bit me in the butt. So I would definitely recommend having both the engine deck & heads resurfaced. Also, it would be good to get a valve job on the heads.

[subytech]

I've done a bit of forum research over on NASIOC (ugh) and rs25.com (great place for early jdm WRX stuff) and I think I'm going with the ACL's. Seems like the oem bearings are priced so high because they have the fuji symbol on them! The ACL's are alot harder and can cause scoring on the crank, causingit to be less likely to be reusable in a second build but as long as I upgrade my oil pump (STi 12mm) and run a good oil sounds like I should be ok. Now I just need to decide if I want the +0.001" clearance bearings. I'm still waiting to see what the heads look like so we'll see about resurfacing when they get here. As for the cylinders yes I will be at least honing them to get a good ring seal. I've got alot of side projects right now and if I can get them done I might have they extra $$$ for pistons and rods, although that opens up alot more questions, what piston rod combo is best for my moddest budget? This is also dependant on how long my roomate will let me borrow the sticker wagon

[Legacy777]

The STi 12mm pump will flow more oil, but you really don't need it. The cranks really are a dime a dozen since they are the same as the ej22 non-turbo motor. I would check your crank journal dimensions before plus sizing the bearings.

Trust me, resurface the heads & block. Based on my personal experience, and cj91legss's recent experience, get the heads & deck resufaced. It could save you from having issues down the road.

[subytech]

Well I want to upgrade my oil pump anyway so I might as well go with the 12mm I know cranks are plentiful and thats part of the reason I'm going with the ACL's. And I am deffinatly going to check my cyl. heads and block with a machinist bar. But like I said it might all be moot anyway since its more and more looking like I might just go forged internals anyway and if i do that everything is getting decked/machined. Funny how all these builds seem to start out small and always end up turning into a full on build! Although I kinda had a funny fealing this would happen. Just means it will take longer.

[Legacy777]

Yeah....these type of projects end up ballooning pretty quick

[subytech]

Well finished pulling the motor appart, and just like most people that pull these appart I was astonished at how good everything looked!

First things first I removed the other cylinder head




And like everyone seems to find the cross hatching was still very visable


Then I finished stripping the block of all brackets, oil pan, baffle, pick up, sensors etc.


Next come the piston pins


Then all the block bolts


Don't forget this one in the oil pan aria, I always seem to!


And now the scary part, tapping the case halfs appart with a mallet


TA-DA like I said earlier the inside was in remarkably good shape, almost no appreciable wear on the main bearings or the thrust serfaces!



The rod bearings had some wear on them but remember this car had 251,000 miles, I've beaten the crap out of this car for the last 60,000 miles and the previous owner didn't take very good care of it.


And all the rings looked in good condition, notice the oil control rings, all free and no crap in their like the last 4 motors I've pulled appart


And remember kids always try and keep your room organized and clean

[subytech]

So on a second note I am seriously considering a stroker build now. I have an EJ25D crank down stairs and according to THIS thread it would give me back the compression I've lost with the new heads. I would be using the Wiseco stroker pistons with 25D K1 rods. My roomate has this combo in his wagon with a rotated gt35 right now and still on break in its amazing! Any thoughs on how much power that crank can safely hold?

[Legacy777]

It appears that you've got an actual Subaru piston wrist pin puller tool. Nice!

[subytech]

Yea, I work at a dealer, hence my name. In hindsight I wish I had picked a different name, espeacially on LGT.com people see that and instantly get pissed at me, I swear people think dealer techs want to kill their first borns lol. I was going to ask, how the hell to people get the pins out without the special tool?

[AWD_addict]

Make a tool for it. Cut a notch in the tip of a screwdriver. Or get a long rod, notch the end, and bend into an "L" shape. Tap the inside of the L with a mallet.

[subytech]

My heads FINALLY shipped today, talk about an ordeal. I don't understand why its so hard for some one to make a package, take it to the UPS store and ship it? Anyways should be here in a week and my new coils should be here any time as well. Does anyone know of a good place to get pigtails for the newer (integrated ignitor) coils, or better yes does anyone have a harness their willing to sell me?

Other than tha I'm trying to scrounge up the cash now to buy pistons in the next week so I can at least get the block down to the machine shop. It's an hour and a half away and only open weekdays so trying to get all the stuff togeather so I can get down there on my monday off (I get every 3rd monday off)

[kleinkid]

For wires, this may help.

www.clubplug.net

[subytech]

I need the electrical connector for the actual coil assembly so I can make a harness for my ignition system. Those guys seem to only sell spark plug wires. I'm happy to say I don't need those anymore : )

[subytech]

Well a huge chapter in life came to a close today. My wife finally settled her 3 year old motorcycle accident case! We will finally be able to get out from under our debt and medical expenses! Her body will never fully recover (compressed vertebrae) but this is a good day! AND that means I will be able to focus on the car more!

My ignition coils finally showed up from japan today, the posting said used and I only payed $120 shipped for 4 but they look like they have never even been installed!


I also bought a 03 WRX engine harness with the plugs I need for the coils tonight for $120 shipped. Not to bad I think.

[Legacy777]

Doug was one of the pioneer's for me of the custom piston remover tool.

http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/s ... P_4365.JPG
http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/s ... P_4367.JPG

[subytech]

Wow those look like they would work better than what we have honestly lol. Our stuff at the shop is thrashed from past techs that didn't know how to use them or just didn't care.

[Legacy777]

Yeah it actually works pretty good. If you get one that is stuck you can use a mallet to bang on the part that is bent. Was really easy to make too.

[subytech]

Well over the last couple of days I've had my WRX harness and cylinder heads show up. The heads are a little rough but I'm going to have them decked anyway and the messed up valve cover bolt holes can be helicoiled or nutserted (gigidy). But the important thing is that the cams and valves are in good shape and the rest of it can be fixed/replaced relatively easily. I also placed an order with IPP for Wiseco pistons, and K1 Billet rods for the stroker build. Unfortunatly the pistons are on "Back Order" for a week so hopefully that won't be to much of a drag on this whole thing. So next I need to order up my bearings, and make an appointment at the machine shop. I also in the near future need to decide if I'm going to upgrade my clutch and then make an appointment with the balancing shop. So still alot to do and pay for but I'm making progress. Hopefully I'll be getting pics of the new parts up soon.

[Legacy777]

Are you planning to take the clutch, flywheel, & pressure plate to have everything balanced?