Legacy Harness Cutting and Master Wiring Diagram

[ghia nut]

So this is proabably going to be one of the weirdest posts ever, but you guys know these cars and engines so well... its kinda creepy, but in a good way.

So Im trying to transplant the ej22t engine into an old vw, maybe you guys have seen some of my other questions but there is little support for suby swaps in vws at this point in time, its growing though which makes me happy to see our old underpowered hippy mobiles actually drive and reliably for once, but there is also only one known ej22t conversion that resides in Germany of all places so any info I can find, and I have some good info is helping but does not include the turbo stuff, and I cant speak german. Long stroy short suby engines are where its at and I could list 20,000 reasons why they are better than aircooled engines. Its going to be a challenge but a worthy one.

Ive been slowly piecing together parts, I also need to get a car to swap it into, thats coming, but engine first. I have what I believe to be a 92' to 94' 22t. I cant tell the model year that it came from but its not '91 as it does not have an oil cooler. Hind sight is always 20/20 so I wish I would have just bought a complete car, but all I wanted was the engine and harness and on the east coast every one seems to think that legacy SS's with 190k on the clock are stuck from gold, this is not to say that they arent worth it, but I just want the power plant, and Im sure you guys, just like vw people, want to see them on the road. So I found a lower mile engine candidate from the northeast from a member here and have been slowly but surely "restoring" the engine so that when the time comes it will hopefully be ready to go and gives me something to do in my down time. I will eventually get to seals pumps and what not, but I just went through the intake manifold and bringing that back to life and checking things over.

I have also purchased a complete wiring harness from another memeber here for an 22t but it was from an automatic. I have chatted with a vw guy that has been most helpful and he has informed me that I can use the automatic harness but will have to ground the shifter selector wires. He informed me that I can basically put it in
"park" mode and the engine will perform like normal but will not need a vehicle speed sensor (VSS) which is great. Most suby swaps I have read about will die when coming to a stop because the engine doesnt have this. I would like to keep the VSS so that I can eventually get a rob tune ej20g setup and use the launch comand... or just feel awesome having a lower rev limiter again much later on down the road.

Any way I was wondering if any one happened to have a full wiring diagram. Much like any manufacturer Subaru decided to do an all in one wonder harness, which is great if you have a subaru that needs one. I however wont be needing things like airconditioning, headlights, cruise control, dash lights, tach and speedo, seat warmers etc. My car will have its own independent system that will essentially feed off the batter and suppy from the alternator. The wiring diagram for these is so simple your refridgerator will look like an IBM supercomputer in comparison.

Heres what Im working with thus far.



Its a little overwhelming but baby steps
I can hopefully take better pictures tomorrow. Keep in mind, Im more of a mechanical guy, Ive torn engines down quite a bit and done some minor electrical fixes, but when it comes to wiring, Im a "dont let the magic white smoke out" person.
This is what my vw friend sent me to follow... again its a NA 22 and manual but its a starting point I guess.


This image is a bit small, I have a much larger picture/pdf of it but have no way to host the larger file.

any help or thoughts would be awesome. I know its long winded but I figure I would go ahead and just be thurough about it.

[vrg3]

Have you looked through the 92 engine & electrical service manual that Josh has posted in the sticky in the Stuff You Need to Know forum? I believe it was originally posted by someone who was swapping 1st-generation Legacy engines into aircraft. It has pretty much all the information you need.

It does look like you have pretty much all the wiring required. There are a couple of components that aren't mounted to the engine that you need though -- the ignitor is mounted on the firewall, and the boost control solenoid, pressure exchange solenoid, and pressure sensor are mounted on the right strut tower. If you don't have those, you should go looking. You can use an ignitor from any Legacy or Impreza up through the mid-90s or so. Lots of Subarus have the same pressure exchange solenoid, too. The pressure sensor is EJ22T-specific, and so is the boost control solenoid. If you use aftermarket boost control (or just the wastegate), you don't need the boost control solenoid but will need to wire a resistor in its place to avoid a trouble code.

[ghia nut]

Thanks for the heads up man. I don't know exactly where and how to extract aspects of information on here but I'm heading there now.

The harness I got included the Mar igniter chip and the boost bits, they look a little used but they look like they will work. Most people just unravel the hole loom. Guess I'll be heading that way soon, just trying to prepare for it with good research and ideas.

[Legacy777]

Email me the diagram and I can host the larger image.

[Legacy777]

Regarding the automatic harness, I would recommend following what I did for my AWD & 5spd conversion wiring. I jumpered the starter interlock circuit together so the car starts and then just wired up the neutral switch & reverse lights. The neutral switch really doesn't do much on the MT ECU, but it'd be good to wire up.
http://surrealmirage.com/subaru/swap/electrical.html

I'd strongly suggest getting the speed sensor setup. These ECU's do NOT like having the speed sensor input missing. What are you doing for the transmission? How does the VW get readings to the speedometer in the dash?

This site has a lot of odds & ends for speedometers.
http://www.transmissioncenter.net/speed ... ____va.htm

They may have something you could stick inline with the cable that sends a pulse to the ECU for speed signal.

[ghia nut]

Thanks for the help on hosting as you have an email now

Im essentially extracting everything in terms of the engine from the whole loom. No Im not on drugs I swear. I take it the starter interlock is what disables the cranking of the engine if not in either Park, Neutral, or the clutch being depressed? Im a little foggy as to what the neutral switch does?

As for the speed sensor. I plan on wiring it up as I eventually want the rob tuned ej20g ecu but again thats much later. As for how the VSS is done. In the VW world, we like to call it the wheel of death.





how it mounts up to our drive shafts and suspension swing arms


The vw people know of the ECU not liking the no VSS as when they are decelerating the engine usually conks out.

As far as the speedometer etc. The whole rest of the cars "systems" will be independent as well, the wiring for the alternator on a subaru is more complex than the whole wiring for the VW, this is an old beetle mind you. The spedometer and everything else, lights, breaks, etc are all independent of the subaru engine and system. I will be wiring up a water temp gauge and some other stuff but that shouldnt be too hard to tie in. I do realize the tachometer may be more of a challenge but I likely just have to tie into the ECM for that.

I am currently working on the F47 or "D" part of the loom off the ECM. Im being cautious as to what I snip. I am noticing that around 35% of the loom off of the D connector goes to a large gray connector. Im contemplating snipping these 8 wires or so off of that connector block then re soldering it to its matched wire on the other part of the loom (connectors A, B, & C). I may have some random questions regarding connectors at some point.

Thanks for all the help and advice you guys have given as its certainly helped, and for not bashing what Im trying to do.

[vrg3]

On a manual there is a clutch switch that operates the starter interlock relay, only allowing the engine to start if the clutch pedal is pressed all the way. There is also a neutral switch, but it has nothing to do with the starting circuit; it's just for the ECU.

On an automatic, there is what's called the inhibitor switch in the transmission. It actually contains three switches internally -- ony high-current switch that closes in either park or neutral, which is in line with the starting circuit, and then two low-current switches for the ECU's use, one for park and one for neutral.

For the starter circuit, I would just use your car's stock wiring. Connect whatever wire used to go to your stock starter solenoid to the Subaru starter solenoid.

And for the neutral and park switch issue... You may as well ground the Transmission ID pin of the ECU so it knows you have a manual transmission. The issue is that the ECU will throw a neutral switch trouble code if it doesn't see the switch pulled to ground every once in a while. Maybe you could just connect the brake light wire to it -- when the brake lights are off, the filaments of the bulbs should be enough to pull the signal to ground, and the ECU's internal diode on the signal conditioning circuit should make that safe to do even when the brake lights are on. So the ECU would think you were in neutral whenever you were braking.

That big giant gray connector is what Subaru calls the Super Multiple Junction. If I were you I probably would just cut the wires at the SMJ rather than trying to untangle that mess.

That's a clever solution for the vehicle speed sensor! I would have epoxied little rare earth magnets to the axle instead, but you guys have a much more sturdy method.

[ghia nut]

the rare earth magnets have been tried... they didnt work to well so the Wheel of Death Seems to do the job well.

Looks like Ill cut the SMJ now.

I will be using the vw starter as well. I have a high torque starter as well so it shouldnt be too bad.
Ill be using a Kennedy Engine Adapter which replaces the flywheel on the subaru to work with all vw components.

[Legacy777]

Larger diagram from above.

http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/s ... g_Diag.pdf

[Legacy777]

Depending on where you cut the harness I would just connect the leads coming from the trans connector, they are pins 11 & 12 and I talk about them in my swap write-up. Just trace them back as far as you can and connect them together.

I would recommend against soldered connections and would recommend crimp connections. What I prefer is the crimp connections without the insulation, and then I will put heat shrink insulation over that connection. That makes for a much cleaner smaller connection.

The reason I ask about the speedometer and independent systems is that you may be able to tie into them to feed the ECU. It sounds like the wheel of death seems to work...so as long as you have a solution.

[vrg3]

The tachometer shouldn't be too difficult. In fact, the stock tach might just work with the tach signal coming out of the ECU as it is.

Wow, that's quite the diagram. That must have been a heck of a lot of work to put together. It's cool seeing that my pinout chart helped.

[Legacy777]

I added that comment/box on the pinout chart

[vrg3]

Oh, I see. Nice.