Newbie...what legacy to buy....reliable?

[RboarderI]

Okay I am sick of front wheel drive and getting stuck in the snow. I am a college student so I don't have that much money but I was looking at the AWD early 90's legacy sedan. What model and year would I get the best bang for the buck and which one is the most reliable? I would really like the turbo awd one! So what do you guys think, any comments will help me out. Thanks!!!

[scottzg]

really, you can't go wrong with any of them. in 92 they changed the car some cosmetically, but aside from a better coil pack and headlights, it's really the same. The CV boots kinda get a workout on these cars, and are the main weakness. On the turbo models, the turbo is just one more thing to fail, so its a little less reliable, but it is not a point of concern. And of course, avoid automatic trannys, they suck.

[ciper]

Wheel bearings, sunroof leaks, cv boots, sun visors.

Other than that you cant go wrong. The easiest thing to find would be an automatic NA, which is plenty reliable.

[RboarderI]

I dont want an automatic I want a manual. So if I don't get the turbo is the non turbo still a pretty quick car, that is why I was leaning torwards the turbo but if it is going to bring me problems then I could stick with the non turbo.

[Brat4by4]

Ok, time for someone with a turbo Legacy to chime in... The turbo's have better built blocks, heads, coolant systems, clutch, brakes, etc... The problems you run into with turbo's is that they do have a LOT more torque which will kill a transmission if not used properly. Make sure the tranny is ok and that the oil was changed often.

Besides most people wanting way too much for their turbo Legacy, they are great to have if you can find one. It will put a grin on your face every time you drive it.

[RboarderI]

So how quick are the non tubo legacys, are they still a fun car to drive? And what should I look out for in them when I go and look at them?

[THAWA]

I've never been in a turbo leg so I cant compare but I have plenty of fun in my car, it doesn't pull very strong (least I don't think so) but it feels like it does, I think this can be mostly attributed to the amount of lift you get when you hit the gas. That's not to say it's like a rock out there or anything, it can hold it's own but it's just not as fast as I'd like it. Lemme put it this way, it's got enough umph to jettison my neck/head into the headrest, but not enough to make me wet my pants. I'd say go for a turbo if you can find one, but if not you'll still love the n/a

[georryan]

I've heard that stock for stock the n/a will hang on the rear bumper of the turbo car. The n/a had a different gearing to help it accellerate a little faster. That's what I've HEARD and seem to remember, but you probably shouldn't quote me on it. The guy who told me about the two cars hanging with each other drove them both when they were brand new on a track, and that's what he had to say.

The thing about the turbo is that it will have more potential, and can get to the point of doing circles around WRX's with some minor improvements. I've used the word "minor" quite loosely.

[THAWA]

perhaps we should test this next time you are in town ryan?

[entirelyturbo]

The N/A Legacies are barrel-of-monkeys fun, but the turbos are even more so! I love my N/A to death and refuse to part with it until it will no longer move under its own power...

Def. check the CV axles, valve cover leaks, and rust... But nothing severe...

[evolutionmovement]

I've got 233,000 on my N/A wagon and I have the original wheel bearings (despite slightly incorrect offset wheels, living in the snow/salt belt, heavy braking, and frequent sliding sideways) so I have not found them to be an issue personally. I also have the original alternator (!) and the headlights don't even dim. I've only replaced the CV joints once. A/C compressor packed up about 20K ago. I did replace the transmission (manual) when a main shaft bearing went at 180K. If you're in a snow-belt zone check for rust around the rear wheel arches and the bottom of the front fenders (usually it's just the cheap-to-replace front fender that's bad and underneath is fine. They're a 10-yr. consumable up here). Overall these cars are much better rust wise than their competitors and a galaxy ahead of the older models I've owned.

These things are a blast to drive and I regularly outcorner jerks in BMWs. Get some decent wheels and tires (necessary for BMW baiting) and a smaller steering wheel (optional - better steering feel) and it's even better. I spent 3K last summer getting it repainted and the rust replaced with new metal and the sills seam welded. I plan on converting to awd and I habe a turbo engine in my kitchen I'm working on for it now. I have never questioned spending this much money that I'll never get back on it - its much more fun than the many new cars I've driven and has character to spare. I would not be surprised at all if it actually spoke to me someday.

Steve

[ciper]

N/A legacy (first generation) are VERY fun and plenty fast. Kill most any car on the road for the first 200 feet (except another subaru).

If you want a cheap reliable car I still suggest the N/A Legacy. They are MUCH easier to find in good shape for little money. Personally I have owned three N/A, bought one for my mom and convinced 4 co workers to own one.....

[MrBean85]

I myself have never been in a Turbo Leg, but agree w/ everyone else, the N/A is quite capable. We've got 5 N/As, and they aren't gonna stomp a Ferrari, but can get just about anything off the line, run 75-80 mph w/o breaking a sweat, and that AWD is amazing. I love my 92.

[LegacyT]

As many subaru tech's say, they are Subaru's best car ever. better then the older ones, better then the newer ones. The first gens are truly a gem. Since I have both, the turbo is more fun then the N/A. the N/A is fun as well. If your looking at one. check the vin #, try to get one made in japan. Overall they are built a little better and use electrical components made in japan, not mexico. A japanese vin begins with JF. ALso get a 5spd, the automatics are quite relaible, one of ours has 380 000kms without being touched, but still 5spd's are more fun. If you want an auto, check for torque-bind, a hesitation to do tight radius turns. Its an indication of new clutch packs being required. On 5-spds check the synchros, especially on the turbo. As mentioned earlier check the axles, clicking or chatter usually means busted cv boots. clunking over bumps usually means worn/ripped strut top mounts. rust is also a concern, look on the rear quarters, down low and up top ( inner fender as well), where ever salt and moisture is able to accumulate. Check front and rear ends of the rocker panels, front and bottom ends of the front fenders, rad support, bottom of doors, under door mirrors, inside trunk (pocket where jack sits down into the chassis), pocket on other side as well, rear diff mount (where it mounts to the chassis).

Mark,

Mark,

[RboarderI]

that was an awesome response!! very complete and exactly what i was looking for!

[Dr Nick]

I've heard that stock for stock the n/a will hang on the rear bumper of the turbo car.

I know this is really irrelevant and probably quite childish (no surprise there then!) but NO WAY IN THE UK!! The UK spec turbo is about 3.5 seconds faster to 60mph and I'd put a fairly serious amount of money on a UK NA (even the 2.2) not living with my turbo...

[georryan]

Remember you guys have an intercooler and probaly close to at least 40 more horses than we got.

The US spec legacy was toned down to 160 hp without an intercooler.

You add an intercoooler alone and I think a difference would start to be significant.

[georryan]

perhaps we should test this next time you are in town ryan?

Sure thing Thawa, I'm heading down next week. Although I'm heading through Sacramento to LA to help a friend move down there. I'll be back up around Christmas. Any time after Christmas I'll take you up on that. If you want a chance to drive a turbo I can give you that, too, let you know what your missing.

[THAWA]

heheh, sounds like a plan.