After spindle install SS 4EAT has shifting problem.

[monkeyposeur]

I recently rebuilt my 93 SS w/4EAT EJ22T. I am now in the process of getting her to pass safety so she will be legal. I tried to get her to pass safety today but failed because of play in the driver's side front wheel and an exhaust leak of the downpipe flange gasket. The exhaust leak seems like BS since I just replaced the gasket. While trying to tighten the spring bolts as much as I could I broke one and will replace them tomorrow.

Anyway, I was jacking up the suspension to get my ball joint puller underneath the ball joint. The jack came loose and the suspension sprang back down. My axle was still attached to the transmission spindles by the axle pin and the spindle came out of the transmission. I called the Subaru Dealership and they said that I should just be able to slide it back in. I removed the axle pin and slid the spindle in place. I gently tapped it in with a hammer the rest of the way. I replaced the ball joint and axle pin, and put the wheel back on.

I took it for a short test drive and I heard a clunking noise and it sounded like it was coming from the tranny. I pressed on the gas and it didn't want to accelerate at all. I drove it about ten yards or so and heard the same clunking, still no aceclleration. Finally it started to sluggishly pick up speed and clunked again. The car would go up to about 2-3rpms and then drop back down. After another moment, it finally shifted into second but didn't want to shift into third. Another moment and it finally did but wouldn't go to fourth. I turned around to take her back home. It seemed like the shifting was getting better than the initial startup but since the SS is not registered I didn't want to risk driving it around for a while as to not get a ticket.

Is is possible that I messed up something when the spindle came out? I inspected the spider gears in the transmission and nothing appeared to have dropped or moved. Also, when the spindle came out I didn't lose any transmission fluid.

Tomorrow I will check the levels. A few drain and fills are on the list of things to do.

Any thoughts? Thanks.

[Legacy777]

I believe you're referring to the axle stubs that go into the transmission, not necessarily the spindle.

The axle stubs do come out on the 4EAT transmissions. The axle stubs are part of the differential section and has a separate fluid resevoir than the main transmission. Did you refill both the differential & transmission when you rebuilt it? When adding transmission fluid, did you start the car? The tranny fluid needs to be checked with the engine running at idle speed.

Did the transmission work ok when you took it to the inspection place?

[monkeyposeur]

Thanks for responding.

No, I haven't refilled anything related to the transmission as of yet. Today I checked the dipstick that is on the passenger side and south of the bellhousing (north being the headlights, lol) and it showed the fluid level was a bit above the 'F' mark so it may be a bit too full. Is that dipstick the differential or the transmission?

I am also throwing CEL code 51, which is the neutral safety switch or inhibitor switch according to your write up. Is the neutral safety switch located in the shifter? I'll check the harness connection as soon as I figure out where it is.

If I have the transmission in 'Manual' mode, I don't get the clunking noise. However, if I have it in 'D' I do get the 'ca-cunk' noise and is doesn't want to really shift as it should. So I just drove it around in Manual mode 3 all day. It was a blast to drive and the first time since I bought the SS that I got to have some fun with it. Gotta say, I love this little beast and she is only going to get better.

I bought some Dextron III compatible ATF fluid today and I was planning on doing my first drain and flush but I spent too much time at the DMV to do it before I had to go to work.

[monkeyposeur]

I checked the transmission fluid when the engine was cold, and when it was hot. When it was cold it was well above the full mark and when it was hot it was hard to read, but there were bubbles on the dipstick which would lead me to believe that there is too much fluid. I haven't done the drain and refill yet.

I installed two more ground lines from the battery to the engine and the body and the dash and headlights are brighter. This may have helped CEL code 51 to go away, IDK.

However, I may have fixed the shifting problem when I found a broken vacuum hose from the fuel pressure regulator to the intake manifold. After I broke the cracked end off and put it back on the mani all wierd shifing problems have ceased. Also, there is now plenty of boost from first gear on up and the SS picks up speed pretty quick.

I'll give her another test drive tomorrow and see if the problem has gone away.

[Legacy777]

The dipstick on the passenger side is the one for the front diff. The fluid will smell like sulfur. The dipstick on the driver's side is the one for the ATF. When checking the ATF, slowly cycle from park to 1 and then back to park. With the engine still running, and all accessories off, check the ATF level.

The bubbles are kind of normal, you just need to try and look on the dipstick for the shine of the fluid. You can try a drain & refill, as that might help. Remember, you'll need to add fluid back into the trans via the dipstick on the driver's side.

The inhibitor switch contains the neutral switch on the AT's. It's all in the trans.

I can see a ground helping get rid of the code, but don't see how the vacuum line would affect things.

I guess keep an eye on things and let us know.

All the manual mode does is keep the trans from going into 1st gear, and alters the AWD & shift maps slightly.

[monkeyposeur]

The vacuum lines are definitely what was causing my problem. I was just mistaken that it was a transmission problem. It just felt like it was coming from the vicinity of the transmission on the passenger side. Since most of the vacuum lines were very brittle at their connections they were all just cracking. As far as using the manual mode, I think that it was a coincidental occurrence as far as stopping the problem.

What was happening was my cracked vacuum line was causing some kind of stuttering or explosion, or collapse of pressure. (I need to learn more how the fuel system works). So when I would press on the gas the engine would almost start to shift, but then the crack in the vacuum system would do something funny and the car would either not accelerate or rev higher, or decrease rpms and either not shift or downshift.

As soon as I fixed the vacuum line going into the fuel pressure regulator the problem went away, for a while. Then the next day it came back. I discovered that I had not put the spring clamp back on the hose clamp that connects the vacuum line from the passenger cylinder head that splits the PCV line to the PCV valve and the driver's cylinder head. The problem went away. This morning the problem came back. There is a little u-shaped piece of vacuum fuel hose that is toward the back of the intake mani near the turbo. I saw that it was now cracked. I replaced it. Ran fine for a while, but then the problem came back. The PCV hose to the PCV valve was collapsed. I replaced it with a piece of heater hose (as a temporary replacement, of course) with a hose clamp on the tightest part of the bend so it wouldn't kink. I then replaced a couple more lines for good measure.

The problem has gone away for the moment and I took the SS on a spirited drive around town and on her first freeway trip. I will replace the rest of the vacuum lines soon. I also need to get a new spring clamp for the PCV connector that goes into the top of the engine block an inch back and directly below the PCV valve. It's a tight fit and I don't want to take the intake mani off until I have a few days of leisure to do so.

Then she was leaking a lot of oil out of the oil pan drain plug. I crawled under and also found my coolant leak to the left, lol. I put in a new crush washer (they suck, I need to find a good o-ring that fits), and that has stopped.

I love this little beast. She corners like a dream and I love hearing the teency turbo spooling up. I saved her from the scrapyard and I hope we will never be separated.

[Legacy777]

Well it sounds like you may have had or still have a couple different issues. All that vacuum line does going to the fuel pressure regulator is reduce the fuel pressure at idle and high vacuum. It's possible the engine was over fueling and not running properly, but I've run the engine without the vacuum line hooked up and it ran fine.

I guess keep an eye on things and if the problem comes back, you can go from there.

Just a little tip, you can remove the alternator and that will give you a little better access to the U-hose coming from the block to the plastic PCV crossover piping.

[monkeyposeur]

The problem only happens about once or twice if I really try and gas her in 1st, then goes away and she runs great.

I ordered a couple PCV lines. The line that goes to the PCV valve is such a tight bend and the hose I used to replace it just kinks and I think it was collapsing. I put a hose clamp on the tightest part of the bend to keep it open and it seems to be working. The OEM replacement will be here soon and I won't have to worry about it.

Could the fact that I was running 85 octane be part of the problem? I didn't realize until today when I went to fill up the tank for only the second time that the fuel cap cover calls for "Premium Fuel Only." That's too bad, because 85 octane is a lot cheaper.

[Legacy777]

It might be. As I mentioend in your other thread, it might be a good idea to clear the memory in the ECU to get rid of any learned fuel/knock trims while the engine was running on low octane fuel.

Where do you live? I'm assuming since you have 85 octane that it's at a higher elevation. Is your premium 91 octane?

[monkeyposeur]

I'm in SLC, UT. We sit a little above 4,220 feet. And yes, our premium is 91 octane. Why is our premium 91 while in other areas it is 93? I understand that the air is less dense, therefore less oxygen.

[Legacy777]

Altitude typically plays the biggest role in the octane ratings available. However, places like California only have 91 octane available, while places in the northeast you can get 94 octane.

I think some of it depends on the refining capabilities of the local refineries, storage terminals, etc. and I'm sure emissions and politics also play into it as well.

[monkeyposeur]

I'm still chasing this problem. I talked to a good subie tech/parts guy and he thinks that the inhibitor switch would not be likely causing my problem. Possibly a cracked vacuum line may be the culprit. But he seemed to think that since the problem only occurs when the engine is cold and upon initial startup that there may be a sensor problem. Meaning that when the engine is cold, the engine detects a lean or rich fuel mixture and compensates resulting in the pop pop misfire compression thing tha tis happening. Then the ecu changes the composition after the engine warms up and the problem disappears. He didn't seem to think that it would be a problem with my PCV lines (I am replacing a few old ones).

My other theory was that the since air intake that comes off the TB has a small crack where it attached to the turbo has a small crack it is also another potential source of problems. I have it duct taped fairly well so it is most likely sealing correctly for the time being. Unfortunately, a new one from Subaru is $217. There are TWO left in the country, so I guess I have some time to think about it. But I am not about to drop that much money on that since it is likely another issue.

We'll see what happens. But after the car warms up the problem disappears and it romps.

[Legacy777]

A crack in any of the intake piping will certainly cause a problem. Is this the pipe before or after the turbo?

Have you tried finding a used one in the parts shed?

[monkeyposeur]

The part no. is 14462 AA060 and is the air intake duct. It is cracked where it clamps on to the turbo. The crack is about 3/4" long at the most and is duct taped with the stock hose clamp. A new OEM replacement is $217. There are two left in the country as of yesterday. I wish I could post a pic of the diagram, but I don't know how to post pics on this site.

No, I haven't tried finding a used one in the parts shed.

[Legacy777]

That is the pressurized side of the turbo, so duct tape is not going to seal the crack.

I'd suggest replacing that before moving on with your troubleshooting.

[monkeyposeur]

I'll start looking for a replacement. If I can't find one, then I'll just have to eat it and get one from the dealership.

However, why would the problem go away after a few minutes? If the crack on the air intake duct is not sealed properly, I would think that the problem would be consistent.

[Legacy777]

That I can't answer. There may be another problem, but the way to try and troubleshoot a problem is to fix the known issues and then see what remains. Trying to figure out a problem that has multiple possible causes is much more difficult.

[monkeyposeur]

I appreciate your advice and definitely agree with you. The past two days the problem has not manifested.

I am still learning about the PCV system. If a PCV hose is loose, how would that affect the way the car runs?

[monkeyposeur]

Well, it was doing it again today.

I'm still on the hunt for a replacement if anyone has a lead.

[monkeyposeur]

I may have found an replacement for the cracked air intake. As far as the duct tape working or not it's hard to say. A subaru tech seemed to think that it would be OK, but just because he is a subaru tech doesn't mean he knows everything. When I get it and install it I'll update. My next step is to replace the fuel pump. The problem hasn't manifested for a week or so.

edit: If I find some 20G heads to swap on the 22T will they work with my stock engine or do I need new pistons? I'll search some more for this answer myself, but I am having a hard time finding the answer. Thanks.

[monkeyposeur]

I replaced the air intake, the inhibitor switch, rerouted and replaced the purge control solenoid valve, the turbo intake and outlet coolant lines, water pump coolant lines, and all the f-tube PCV lines today. There was a crack in the oil pan I JB welded it. I reset the ECU, so tomorrow I can fill it back with oil and coolant and see if the problem goes away.

[monkeyposeur]

The replacement evap purge valve was still throwing the code. So I ate it and bought a new one. Now no code for that!

The hesitation problem has gone away! She finally has some pick up from a start and is boosting a lot more. She is pretty fast now! It must have been the cracked air intake. My duct tape temp fix was failing.

No more oil leak from the pan! No more coolant leaks! Hooray.

I replaced the inhibitor switch and I think I was supposed to adjust it or something. At first the car wouldn't even start. I had to unlock the shifter a slide it through all the settings a few times. Then it started. Now the orange indicator doesn't line up with the shifter indicator lights on the dash. I am still getting code 51. I'll wait until the down pipe cools off and take a look. I installed it with the shifter in park and I should have had it in 'N'. So I'll try again.

Hooray! She is running like she is supposed to now!

[monkeyposeur]

I adjusted the inhibitor switch. It sucks you have to take the down pipe off to gain easy access to it. Anyway I adjusted it according to the FSM: 2) Installation and adjustment of inhibitor switch
(1) Install the inhibitor switch to the transmission case.
Fit the projecting portion of the switch in the recessed
portion of the case, and tighten three bolts temporarily.
(2) Insert the range select lever into the shaft, and
tighten the nut.
Tightening torque:
47±5 N⋅m (4.8±0.5 kg-m, 34.7±3.6 ft-lb)
G3M0435
(3) With the selector lever set to “N” adjust the inhibitor
switch so that the hole of range select lever is
aligned with the inhibitor switch hole with ST.
ST 499267300 STOPPER PIN
NOTE:
Ensure that gauge moves properly.
(4) With hole aligned, tighten three bolts to secure the
inhibitor switch.
Tightening torque:
3.4±0.5 N⋅m (0.35±0.05 kg-m, 2.5±0.4 ft-lb)

Everything lined up at first, but after shifting back and forth a few times it went off a bit. But it starts and shifts just fine. The orange indicator is just a big off. I'll mess with it later.

I am happy to finally be running full boost and not having hesitation problems. I can finally romp the SS like it was meant to be romped. TD04 and tmic to be installed soon.

[monkeyposeur]

Well, some more bugs to work out I guess. It did the put put put thing again this morning and hesitated until it warmed up a bit. I noticed some carbon deposits on the driver side of the exhaust manifold so I am going to check that out.

I bumped some of the spark plug wires going in to the coil pack and tightened them up. Wouldn't that be nice if that was the problem. The spark plug wires are new but maybe I need to replace them with better ones. What should I replace them with?

Once it warms up it boosts just fine and runs great though. Just upon start up it has issues.

[Legacy777]

Have you replaced the coolant temp sensor recently? If not, you might try that to see if it helps with the startup issues.

Also, you can take a spray bottle and spray a fine mist of water around the spark plug boots, wires, & coil pack to see if you notice any arcing. Do this at night to help you better see the arcing.