Xise's 1993 Legacy Turbo

[xise]

the adjuster on the very bottom of the ebrake assembly, on my picture it is the silver metalic tube with a spur looking gear to adjust the brake shoes. Yours is very short on the non threaded end, mine is long on both ends so I can't adjust it down enough to get the rotor back on.....

[xise]

this dealy here

[kimokalihi]

Oh that's dumb. I see what you mean. Its aftermarket I'm assuming? Can't you just reuse your old one? Mine didn't want to work on their own so I took them apart and hit them up with the wire wheel and lubed them and they look and perform good as new.

[xise]

...yeah about that, I kinda accidentally threw them away with the old brake shoes

[kimokalihi]

I was afraid of that. Bummer. Time to go to the dealer I suppose.

[xise]

NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!

I was hoping I could just grind down the unthreaded end and call it a day, the dealership wants nearly $25 a pop, plus I still need backing plates for the fronts, which is just more $$. This thing is starting to nickle and dime me like the 240 did lol

[kimokalihi]

Junkyard ftw!

[xise]

WTF!!! Rockauto sent me the wrong rear calipers!!!!! The bracket is for the NA leggy and is waaay too small, I want to say screw it and just use the old rusty brackets just so I can get this thing back on the gorund...are the calipers the same with just different brackets?? or is the piston bigger for the turbos or have a wider track??

Please let me know as I am totally rip shit about rockauto LYING to me lol

[Legacy777]

The caliper & bracket are different for the turbo legacy. They're both wider.

[xise]

......wonderful news.....

[xise]

Ok so apparently no one sells these anymore, all the part #s they have for the turbo are the same as the NA, and we all know that is horse shit.....I am seriously just about to go grab some NA rotors slap em on and call it a fucking day. It can't really be that much of a downgrade, the rotors are only slightly smaller and non vented...I am just sick of headaches...I can just hang on to everything until I find the proper calipers or just upgrade to 4/2 pots when I have more $$....unless anyone has a correct part number for the caliper/brackets

[Someperson]

that blows bud...

[Legacy777]

Are you looking at the dealer or aftermarket?

You can put the non-turbo rotors & calipers on and should really notice zero difference in braking. The vented and non-vented rotor are the same diameter. The vented rotor just gives you better rotor cooling and added mass to dissipate heat. The 90-91 sedan rear calipers did have a smaller caliper piston. The wagon rear caliper pistons were the same diameter as the turbo legacy.

[xise]

I think the will be the cheaper option for now... not sure what caliper I have, I suppose I could measure the bore to see...I don't think I can return the NA calipers if I wanted to now because I "modified" them by painting them, just sucks that I have these nice rotors that I can't use

I am sure the dealer would murder me in price for calipers/brackets lol, I don't even want to know what the price would be

[kimokalihi]

[kimokalihi]

I'm not sure what you're looking for exactly but that's all the rear brake parts with OEM part numbers.

For the whole brake caliper kit it's $216 per caliper not including the rotors from 1stsubaruparts.com.

[xise]

I need a few things there actually, that caliper is waay too pricey for my taste though, for that much I could get some FHI 2 pot rears...

In other news rockauto is going to allow me to return those calipers even though I painted them so that is some good news. I asked them to do some research to see if they can find the correct caliper that fits the vented disks, if so then I may have found a reliable source for the entire forum, I am sure many of you are also needing new calipers for your SS if you haven't done a brake swap...I also know a place to get the proper rear rotors if anyone was having trouble finding rotors...hopefully everything will pan out.

[kimokalihi]

What did the calipers cost? I need some brakes in the future and I'm thinking of just getting new calipers or rebuilding mine and painting them and getting cryo treated rotors and performance pads and calling it a day.

[xise]

the calipers were cheap from rock auto about $35 each after core return, they don't offer the correct rears though, I am still talking to them about it, the sales rep I have been e-mailing linked me here for a possible rear rotor match.

http://www.cardone.com/Products/Product ... 537&p=rock

I am not sure if these are correct, it only lists them as being for the legacy with rear disk brakes and 15" wheels.....was the SS the only legacy to come with 15" wheels?? If you can verify these are the right calipers I will buy them...but I am not holding out any hope.

Also Kimo, if you are looking for rotors Callahan makes slotted, drilled, solid and cross drilled/slotted rotors for the SS and there is an ebay vendor that sells them. I can link you there if you want.

[xise]

So it turns out that there was a mixup with the Centric brake parts I had, they had used an incorrect product image for the left rear caliper. They used the SS brake caliper picture for the caliper meant for 14" wheel legacies So I am returning these for a refund where I can re order the proper calipers.... The only vendor that sells them on rockauto is A1 Cardone here are the part numbers in casse anyone else needs them.

A-1 CARDONE Part # 19B1537 (rear left)
A-1 CARDONE Part # 19B1536 (rear right)

just remember to specify 15" wheels, that seems to be the kicker

[xise]

Well I finally sent my cores and rear brakes back to the warehouse for my refund and core charge back. I'll re order the correct rear calipers once I get the credit. Sucks that i have to paint the rears...again

Very last day of suspension class I snuck this guy in there, got the rear toe adjusted, that bolt was a bitch to turn, I bet the entire sleeve rotated inside the bushing when it did budge...it required heman strength. Front toe is all set. camber was in spec and front camber set in the green.



All lined up, the rear camber is out, but I can't adjust that anyway so whatev...maybe the suspension will settle a bit, if not i'll get some camber bolts for the rear.

On another note, I have engine code 42, for the idel switch in the TPS, maybe just dirty connections or something, hopefully because they are pretty expensive...The speedometer also is not working at all...not sure why, I have other clusters I can swap in to rule out the speed sensor. I am sure I could canabalise a cluster to work with the one that has the correct odometer.

Struts in the rear are a little clunky, maybe the top nut isn't 100% tight, anyone have that problem when swapping V7 suspension with the SS top mounts? Other than that it runs good, has plenty of balls

Turbo also seems to have stopped smoking, guess all that oil burned off, do these cars have issues with oil seepage at the turbo oil lines or something/ I remember the other turbo had caked on oil dirt-shit all over it and so does this one...is it the VF11 or just the banjos are old and crappy?

Either way I am happy with how it drives, it's fun to drive and is really (shockingly) easy to break loose and drift on dry pavement...I honestly wasn't expecting to get such low rpm boost, it's as if it always has boost. Makes me want to get a cheapo' boost guage.



Anyways here is the to do list: -Get fid of code 42
-Valve cover gaskets and new valve covers
-Oil pan gasket
-Fix oil dipstick and mount
-Fix the broken speedo/speed sensor (not sure which it is yet)
-Repaint and install the rear calipers.
-Fix the strut clunk in the rear
-Figure out why the sunroof leaks
-Bosch Iridium plugs and wires
-Air Filter
-PCV valve
-Grimmspeed AOS

So my plate is pretty full about now, I also want to strip down the phone dial rims and paint them too, it will tide me over until I can grab some snowflake rims, i'll probably use both as a winter/summer setup. I was thinking light truck tires for winter like a 70 series tire for winter on the SS rims, anyone know how big of a tire you can fit in the wheel wells??

[xise]

Damn my cell phone takes shit pictures lol, I need to take the real camera out and snap some pictures, it looks a lot better than in the crappy cell pics.

[xise]

Gave SP a tuneup today, I also swapped the TPS sensor from the other intake mani I had lying around, hopefully that does the trick, revs seem to come down quicker when I let off the throttle so it seems ok, just got to clear the check engine light.

the old TPS had oil in it somehow

On to the spark plugs

not too bad

NGKs good plugs a wee bit old, they did have some life left but meh..i changed em anyway.


old vs new wires, they looked pretty shitty lol

The second plug was one of these types that just give you greif


had to clean all that shit outta there with a rag on a screwdriver after I scraped the first bits of rusty sludge out


theres a winner

Valve covers on with new gaskets


New Wix air filter while i'm there

and the other side.

Done for now, I still need to fix the rear strut clunk but I at least checked a few things off ye olde list.

[xise]

I have a question for you guys, Has anyone else ever had trouble with their dipstick tube not being able to get all the way aligned and have trouble with the dipstick itself being a bitch to get all the way back inside...it is a serious PITA to check my oil...

Next on the list is the sunroof, of course it is has been raining for days when I want to get this done...anyway i found a really good writeup on it. Looks like a pain but more tedious than actually difficult.

http://caverpilot.com/2011/11/how-to-re ... headliner/

I already have some silicone caulking, I guess this is impossible to do without actually removing the sun roof...I was thinking you could probably be ghetto and silicone the seam with just having it opened all the way, it just might cause it to leak somewhere else, and it of course leaks right onto the driver's seat...

[xise]

Still haven't gotten to the struts today, I did however repin all my locks to the ignition key. I initially called the locksmith but they wanted more than 1/3 of what I paid for the SS so I said fuck that and tried it myself.

it was easy enough to get the handle out.

dissasembled




removed each one that would not allow the cylinder to rotate

Done.

after that I had a bunch of spares from a spare subaru lock I had lying around


Put em back in....what a fucking de-backle that was, they are such a pain to get the door handle back on the stupid plastic clip thing....fuck that plastic clip.. If anyone is interested I can make a writeup for this, I took a bunch more pictures.