Dynamic Entry's 4EAT to 5MT Swap (Angel -> Demon)

[mike-tracy]

Hmm my ej20g WRX ecu redlines at 7250. Interesting.

[Legacy777]

You answered a question that I didn't ask directly. I didn't know if the STi booster was single diaphram or not.

I definitely want a single, so now I will have to figure out what cars they are found on.

Here is a first hint, from this Nasioc thread
"All first gen legacies have tandom diaphragm boosters. There is no such thing as dual stage boosters, only tandom diaphragm boosters. The single diaphragm boosters came on the early 90's imprezas with drum brakes."

I might have trouble finding one.

Try posting a WTB on NASIOC or check out some of the junkyards online. That's probably my best suggestion.

[Legacy777]

Yeah, I guess that would work, and that way I wouldn't have to mess around with flipping the Temp/Fuel guages or wiring.

But, it would still leave me with the Gear Indicator lights in the middle....

Annnnnd, I will be bouncing off the rev limiter long before I get to 7k

I wonder if someone with an RA motor that actually redlines at 7.5 would like to have this tach. I guess I will ask in the parts shed.

I've still got my gear indicator in the middle....nothing wrong about it. I like it because it's a reminder of what the car used to be and how far it's come.

You should be able to mix and match the US front plat with the temp & fuel gauge with the US tachometer, and KM speedometer.

Then you could sell that tach, because I'm sure somebody would buy it

[Dynamic Entry]

OK, second try on the brake booster.

This came from a 2000 Impreza with disc brakes in the front and drums in the rear. Letters on top say EM.

Am I in luck?

[kimokalihi]

What's better about this single diaphram booster?

[Legacy777]

Yes that is a single diaphragm booster.

Kimo, the single diaphragm booster provides a more linear brake pedal feel. There is less or no "dead" pedal feel when initially depressing the brake pedal.

[Dynamic Entry]

My reasons to find a single diaphragm are that
1) I was curious about the nature and degree of the difference,
and
2) the double is just that difficult to get back in.

I'm glad I came across one easily. I also went out of my way to find a WRX pedal box and throttle pedal.

So now I am motivated to clean my brake and clutch master cylinders and get them installed along with the booster and pedals.

I expect the dealership to get my shift fork in this week, and I have lined up an SPT short throw shifter with new hardened front bushings.

I'm not sure if I will like the performance short throw shifter. Josh said he took his out since the 5MT synchros were not up to the quick throws. But I am going to try it because 1) I am getting it BNIB for $100 including the bushings and 2) I am curious to see if my luck is better and/or if the ExtraS makes a difference.

I might still be waiting until the end of the week for my shift joint adapter, but that will just afford time for me to deal with cruise and clutch switch tomfoolery, and also the routing of my O2 sensor through the hole for the cable clutch models.

So the wait/rush for parts is finally producing, and this week should contain some significant progress.

[Dynamic Entry]

Here is the SPT short throw shifter. Definitely has not been installed before.


Also picked up my shift fork and the shaft.




But, when I took my flywheel off the shelf that it sat on for 2 years, I noticed that it should be resurfaced. So now I am waiting for that to get done before I start putting everything on.

I picked up a rear main seal from the dealership also. They are not expensive.

[Dynamic Entry]

I picked up some STi pedals on the weekend, because I always liked these pedals and I feel like the work involved demands some investment.

I only paid $50 for the clutch&brake box, and drive-by-wire throttle. The local picknpull charge $20 for clutch&brake only. So I will be returning the 1999 Legacy set I bought and feeling good about what the extra $30 gets me.


The STi pedal box and 1999 Legacy pedal box are, as-near-as-makes-no-difference, the same in structure.


The STi electronic throttle is obviously rather different than the SS cable throttle


But the pedal pads are still interchangeable.


The aluminum pedal pads/covers on the WRX/STi clutch and brake have rubber structure that wraps around the metal flange. So they could be removed and installed just as readily as an all-rubber pedal cover.

The throttle pad however, needs to have a hinge pin removed in order to swap it over.


So I put the STi throttle pedal pad onto my stock SS throttle linkage


And now have a set of aluminum pedazzled pedals to install.

[Dynamic Entry]

I dropped the steering column in order to get the pedal box under/around/over into position.

But although the holes for the studs and bolts that will affix the pedals to the car are all present, the pedals cannot simply be lined up and installed.

There is a sizeable plastic conduit, full of wiring, that impedes the way.

Here you can see the conduit, white plastic with black electric tape, extending back from above and beside the pass thru for clutch. (I am not able to get these studs into the holes, since the wiring is in the way of where the box needs to be)


Zoomed out, you can see 2 inches diameter of wrapped wiring that comes out of that conduit and turns upward.


And from below, you can see that this wiring impedes the pedal box from moving into position.


So I am not sure if this wiring is present because it is a 4EAT car, or if it would have simply been directed around the pedal box had it been built as a 5MT.



Which brings me to my next post, wondering how much 4EAT specific wiring and plumbing I can and should remove in order to eliminate unnecessary clutter.

[Dynamic Entry]

So I need to make some decisions regarding what 4EAT leftovers I can/need to remove and how to go about doing it.

Looking down at the drivers side of the engine bay, the two hardlines that fed ATF to the 4EAT still protrude into space.


Those lines then tuck under the frame and come back up again.



And they consolidate into a rubber hose that mates to the radiator.


So I imagine that I can remove those and just plug (or not even bother) the connection on the radiator.


Another major one is the two big wiring harnesses at the middle of the engine bay firewall.


Which used to connect to the 4EAT here


I imagine both of these are no longer needed or used.

But I am not sure of what path they take and if any real advantage will be had from removing the wiring.


One more thing is the 3 harnesses that are under the dash that went to the the TCU


With addition of intercooler under the hood and wideband/piggyback under the dash, I want to have as much space as possible. But, even if I do pull the dash, I am uncertain that I can effectively pull out the obsolete wiring.


BTW, Here is side by side of 4EAT and 5MT

[wtdash]

Hi,
Looking good.
.02 on my swap...but almost a year ago, so getting fuzzy. Mine was '90 AT>>5-speed swap, and had already been turbo swapped running the Rob tuned EJ20G ECU, FWIW. Car was originally NA.

- The wiring for the AT - 2 plugs and TCU - 3 plugs - I just tucked up out the way. I didn't cut anything out.
- I used a cable-actuated clutch setup - not the hydro- so may not apply....but I was able to move the wiring harness out of the way for the clutch/brake pedals.
- I removed the ATF hardlines and capped the cooler lines on the radiator, but optional. IIRC there are just 2 bolts/screws attaching the hard lines to the car body.

- I had to get a manual cruise control comp for mine to work. It's a PITA to get from behind the passenger's right foot well....again, this for a '90, so yours may be different.

-Oh...that single diaphragm booster is WIDER than the dual, so it fits, but still a PITA to install....it was like, 'this is not going to fit!!" And then it did.

And another BIG THANKS to Josh for answering all my questions and his site...couldn't/wouldn't do it w/out his help!

Td

[Dynamic Entry]

Thanks for your input Dash, your car went through as much of a transformation as Josh's' by the sounds of it.

I will operate on the assumption that I can move the excess wiring around enough to get everything in.

Lol, your comment on the booster is spot on.

[wtdash]

Thanks for your input Dash, your car went through as much of a transformation as Josh's' by the sounds of it.

Just to clarify...Josh knew what he was doing. I just followed his lead and got lucky the parts fell into the right spots....Usually.

[Dynamic Entry]

For sure, I was just saying that a 1990 NA 4EAT becoming an EJ20 5MT is a big transformation. A lot more intensive than a post-facelift 4EAT to 5MT swap.

Josh goes above and beyond to help and address specific questions. But the simple fact that his swap is so well documented helps to show the light at the end of the tunnel, and that goes a long way.

[Dynamic Entry]

Made an attempt to install gearbox yesterday. I recruited my friend to help me, but we both had time limitations and we did not complete the job.

Having to pause to install the axles while the transmission is on the way up was only a minor consideration.

We were able to get the gearbox onto the two lower studs and with a push can get the gap pretty close. It felt like one of the top bolts should have threaded in, but we had to use a longer bolt in order to try and reel it in.

It felt like the snout might not be lining up with the pilot bearing, and I also question how well the clutch disc is aligned.

Not sure if I should take the gearbox back down and double ensure the clutch is lined up, or just fight with it until the proper angle on the motor is achieved so I can wiggle it on.

[Deride]

I've always had luck jacking the front of the motor up with a port-a-power to get it angled enough to slide the transmission on easier. As for your pedal assembly I had the same problem swapping my 94 5mt into my 91 4eat. Took hours worth of struggling pushing the pedals against the wiring harness and it finally went in. Think that took me longer than swapping the entire interior from the 94 into the 91 sadly. (dashboard and all)

[Legacy777]

I dropped the steering column in order to get the pedal box under/around/over into position.

But although the holes for the studs and bolts that will affix the pedals to the car are all present, the pedals cannot simply be lined up and installed.

There is a sizeable plastic conduit, full of wiring, that impedes the way.

Regarding the wiring and getting the clutch & brake pedal box in, you're just going to have to wrestle with it to get in. I remember it not being fun to install, but it should fit.

Nice work on the STi pedals! I like them too, and if it wasn't such a huge pain in the butt to swap, I'd consider it

[Legacy777]

My comments are below in red.

So I need to make some decisions regarding what 4EAT leftovers I can/need to remove and how to go about doing it.

Looking down at the drivers side of the engine bay, the two hardlines that fed ATF to the 4EAT still protrude into space.


Those lines then tuck under the frame and come back up again.



And they consolidate into a rubber hose that mates to the radiator.


So I imagine that I can remove those and just plug (or not even bother) the connection on the radiator.

Remove all the trans cooler piping and rubber lines. You can cap off the lines in the radiator or not. I capped mine, but I think one of the caps ended up falling off. I'd suggest spraying brake cleaner or something through there to clean out the trans fluid.

Another major one is the two big wiring harnesses at the middle of the engine bay firewall.


Which used to connect to the 4EAT here


I imagine both of these are no longer needed or used.

But I am not sure of what path they take and if any real advantage will be had from removing the wiring.

You need these connectors (or at least one). You need to hook up a jumper pin on pins 11 & 12 so the car will start. Also, the reverse lights and neutral switch all can be wired up into there. If you do what I did I cut the AT plugs off the trans and made myself a plug & play harness. All this info is in the electrical part of my write-up.

One more thing is the 3 harnesses that are under the dash that went to the the TCU

I'd just leave these alone.

[Legacy777]

Made an attempt to install gearbox yesterday. I recruited my friend to help me, but we both had time limitations and we did not complete the job.

Having to pause to install the axles while the transmission is on the way up was only a minor consideration.

We were able to get the gearbox onto the two lower studs and with a push can get the gap pretty close. It felt like one of the top bolts should have threaded in, but we had to use a longer bolt in order to try and reel it in.

It felt like the snout might not be lining up with the pilot bearing, and I also question how well the clutch disc is aligned.

Not sure if I should take the gearbox back down and double ensure the clutch is lined up, or just fight with it until the proper angle on the motor is achieved so I can wiggle it on.

I would make sure you have the clutch and pressure plate lined up properly with the alignment tool. Also, make sure when you install the trans that the clutch fork is installed with the throw out bearing on the trans snout and NOT clipped into the pressure plate. I made this mistake and had to drop the trans again.

You can remove the front bolt on the front A-arms and that should give you enough room to manuever the CV axles onto the trans splines after it is installed.

As Deride pointed out, if you can put something under the front of the engine or have someone push on it so its angle is more in line with the trans, it should go together much easier.

[Dynamic Entry]

I did catch your lesson to install pilot bearing and fork on the gearbox. (After this pic, I also followed Hayne's recommendation to grease under the pilot bearing and where the fork contacts it.)


We had a jack under the engine, trying to lean it back. I think it just takes time and we ran out.

Trying again tomorrow.

I will continue the fight with pedals tomorrow too. At this point it looks physically impossible to me. I'm curious to see how the wiring conduit is on a stock 5mt SS...

Josh, you could swap to sti pedals easily. Only need to remove throttle assembly, clutch and brake are just covers that can pry off.

[Legacy777]

Yeah, make sure to grease any contact points....that's a good point.

Ok, that's good to know about the pedals.

Thanks

[Dynamic Entry]

Had major successes on the weekend. The gearbox and pedal box went in on Friday night. These two items seemed like the biggest hurdles, and now everything should fall into place one item at a time.

All that was needed for the gearbox was more angle on the motor. We had our big jack under the transmission on the first attempt and a smaller one under the oil pan. I rearranged things so we could get the big jack under the oil pan (always with a block of wood) and achieve more angle. Then it wiggled on easily to close the gap at the top.

It was actually reluctant to close the gap at the bottom. But methodically tightening the top bolts got the lower studs to protrude enough to get nuts on, and then tightening them all in a criss-cross pulled the gearbox flush easily. I didn't put the starter motor on right away. Instead I just put that bolt in by itself for the above process. After the gearbox was snug against the motor I took that one bolt out, then put the starter motor on and reinstalled the bolt.

Did something similar with the pedals. My friend took a crack at squeezing them in, and was better at it than me so he was able to get the clutch cylinder studs through the firewall. Instead of trying to get the master cylinder on I just put nuts on the studs to secure it and cinch the pedal box up against the firewall. I put the brake booster in at the same time so that we had 6 bolts to pull the pedal box into position.

In the end it wasn't that difficult. Part of the problem was that I forgot/didn't know that the bolt-hole near the wiring harness is the one that will NOT fit when using the newer pedal boxes.

The holes will not quite line up.


But the structure of the pedal box does fit in there.


So again, after getting the pedal box in snug, I went back to take the nuts off the clutch cylinder studs, and put in the clutch master cylinder.


I realized during the starter motor install that I am not even certain that the starter motor from a 1999 Legacy will work on the EJ22t. It seemed to spline on to the flywheel with a small wiggle of the crank, the bolt and stud definitely line up, but the flange is just ever so much smaller than the recess on the gearbox.


If anything I think the stock clutch master had a taller reservoir. I remember that I had to cut it during my top mount intercooler install. But this one from 1999 legacy seems short already.


Will these two things work as intalled? Time will tell!

[Dynamic Entry]

Nice work on the STi pedals! I like them too, and if it wasn't such a huge pain in the butt to swap, I'd consider it

As above, yes you would have to take out the throttle pedal in order to switch the pad. I don't think you could punch out that pin with the pedal in the car.

But the Clutch and Brake pads can be removed and installed almost as easily as the pads you have on.


The pads are the most costly/coveted part of the pedal assembly, since the rest of it can be found in almost any manual transmission Subaru.

[Legacy777]

Had major successes on the weekend. The gearbox and pedal box went in on Friday night. These two items seemed like the biggest hurdles, and now everything should fall into place one item at a time.

I realized during the starter motor install that I am not even certain that the starter motor from a 1999 Legacy will work on the EJ22t. It seemed to spline on to the flywheel with a small wiggle of the crank, the bolt and stud definitely line up, but the flange is just ever so much smaller than the recess on the gearbox.

Good work on the progress and getting the big hurdles completed!

As for the starter, you won't be able to use the AT starter, but any first gen Legacy (turbo or non-turbo) MT starter should work.