Xise's 1993 Legacy Turbo

[kimokalihi]

Yup huge pain on the asss to mess with the door handles on these cars. You need girl hands to pull it off easily.

[Alphius]

I didn't have any problems swapping my rear handle on one door. Is it harder on the fronts?
I even have giant hands. You just have to look at it and see what the best way to get it to match up with the pin is.

[xise]

the only struggle was getting the metal arm and plastic clip secured to the door handle everything else was easy peasy, would be easier if I had about 17 joints in each finger, my hands are fairly small and it was still a bitch...to give you an idea I wear medium gloves

[xise]

Sex Panther is on the road and driving, Turns out the strut's top not is plenty tight enough, I have no idea what is clunking around in the rear end now....and I went to torque my front struts to spec and sheered off one of the studs so that sucks balls....

I still need to fix the speed sensor and my fuel gauge seems to work only when it feels like it....I need to get this shit taken care of before the 11th for inspection.

[kimokalihi]

I didn't have any problems swapping my rear handle on one door. Is it harder on the fronts?
I even have giant hands. You just have to look at it and see what the best way to get it to match up with the pin is.

The rears are a piece of cake. There's no lock to worry about so there's no stupid rods in the way that are a pain in the ass to attach.

[xise]

Yeah all and all the locks weren't too bad.

I do have some clunking noise in the rear I originally thought was the rear struts, but I tried to tighten the top nut and they were already good and tight...also it doesn't hit hard like a strut is blown would, it does make that type of noise though. i have ruled out the trunk, but it could be the exhaust possibly...just not sure wtf it is just yet. Has anyone had issues converting the V7 STi suspension to the legacy top mounts with noise etc??

I do have a new issue though,the car runs hot after a while of driving it, might be just because I have only water in there right now. I am going to get some coolant and see how that goes, as of right now if I driver for more than one hour I get this in the overflow tank.


I got around to putting some decals on too, you may call it rice, but I think t looks cool, so fuck you in advance if you don't like it




As you can see my daughter also approves of the decals lol

[kimokalihi]

Coolant is less efficient at absorbing heat than water so that won't help. I ran straight water for a few months with no problems so you have another problem. Is it an OEM thermostat and radiator cap? Do you smell fuel/oil in the coolant or milky oil on the dipstick? Are there cold spots on your radiator and does your heater work well? Have you recently drained the coolant and maybe have air in the system? Is there any leaks underneath suggesting a possible water pump going out?

[xise]

No coolant leaks, I never bled the system though, I couldn't find the bleed screw on the radiator everyone was talking about, if anyone has a picture that might help. Also it is a gates thermostat w/ jiggle pin so I figured it would work ok. The heater works fine and everything else seems ok, my first thought was the whole system bleeding, I added water for a few days while it sat until the header tank would overflow. As far as I can tell the caps are all OEM, I am using an 07 WRX coolant header tank I believe in the place of the AC compressor on a bracket.

[kimokalihi]

I'm not familiar with the design of the Gates thermostat but everyone has problems with aftermarket thermostats restricting flow too much and causing overheating problems. I don't know what brands are to blame but when you see the culprit thermostat compared to an OEM unit the difference is amazing and it's no doubt they cause overheating.

I have never used a bleeder screw on any subaru when bleeding the air from the coolant system. Didn't even know there was one. Pretty sure there's not actually but I may be wrong. I've always used the radiator cap or the cap on the coolant tank. You want it to be at the highest point in your system to aid in removing trapped air. Just let it idle with the cap off for a good 30 mins and keep filling when necessary and at some point it'll probably boil over. It's best to use one of those yellow coolant easy fill funnels that attach with a rubber seal to the spout and you can fill it all the way up and just let it idle and burp itself. Super easy and I highly recommend it.

Sounds to me like you might have air in your system. Go on amazon or maybe autozone and buy one of those yellow funnels and it'll make your life a lot easier. I think if more people had these and had the patience to let the car idle for half an hour we would see much fewer overheating cases.

http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24610-Spill ... +easy+fill

[xise]

I have seen those before, they are pretty cool. The way I did it was parked on a hill and I just filled the coolant header tank until it wouldn't take any more coolant, let it run for a while and kept topping it off. That is how I always used to fill radiators and never had an issue. People here have always talked about a bleeder screw on the radiator...I was just never able to find it so I used my own method, so maybe the burping I did was fine and it is the thermostat causing the problem...:shrug:

I also figured out why I am getting no speedometer, no AWD and a code 24 with ABS light on. The speedometer sensor that screws into the trans broke so I need PART # 737411752, it's like $10, but I think that I can use one from an AT 1998 RS. I have taken a few parts off of it for the SS already and they seem to share many random parts. Hopefully it has the same cable type speedometer as the legacy.

That should take care of all of my dummy lights that are on right now. I am still getting a code 42 for the TPS but it doesn't idle super high when I put it in park or neutral after I drive it for a while.

[kimokalihi]

TPS is 31. 42 is the idle switch which is part of the TPS. Don't forget to squeeze the upper radiator hose every couple mins to help get the air out.

Definitely replace that speed cable part. Mine broke after only like 3K miles on a brand new OEM piece! It caused all kinds of codes and limp mode. Replaced it with the old one that wasn't broken and it's been fine for 10K miles now lol. Subaru is stupid and made the threaded part from plastic so it breaks super easy so be sure to lube the threads before screwing it on and be careful with the wrench. I think the auto cable is the same as long as it's got a cable and it's not connected by wiring instead.

[xise]

nope it is a cable type, yeah that's how I manually burped it, squeezing the upper hose and then letting it run through the motor. I'll try a new Subaru thermostat when I get a chance, hopefully that won't cost too much.

[kimokalihi]

Pretty cheap to replace. Probably $25 tops.

[kimokalihi]

Found this little bad boy in my parts pile today while searching for something else. Didn't know I had this. Brand new OEM thermostat. This is what it's supposed to look like. Bigger than any thermostat I've ever seen before.

[kimokalihi]

Looks like it's $15 on discountedsubaruparts.com (formerly 1stsubaruparts.com in Renton, WA) so probably $20-$25 at your local dealership.

[xise]

damn that thing looks fricken Uge!

[xise]

OK so I have ruled out the struts as a cause for the noises, I plugged my ears and just drove around, the ride felt completely normal and not harsh or anything...it was for some reason a lot easier to tell the ride was not harsh without the noise.

This car came with an 02 wrx catback so maybe it just doesn't fit 100% correctly or something, I still have yet to determine what is the cause of this annoying ass noise...everything seems tight, nothing loose or rattling. It makes the noise going over even very small bumps in the road, definitely a metal on metal clunk type noise, bigger the bump the louder the noise....any suggestions??

I also get some clunking popping and clicking up front, not sure if it is because of the trans being in FWD mode due to the speedometer cable being fucked up or if I have some serious issues up front, the ball joints are brand new, the tie rods looked OK, the steering feels good, no binding or anything that I can think of, not in the steering anyway. It does seem to bind a bit when accelerating around a 90 degree corner, maybe again due to the speedometer/transmission issue...

Also I figured out a way to "regulate" the temp by keeping it on vent 2-3, seems to stay right in that middle range of the temp gauge, when I first get going in the morning it takes a bit to warm up and when it does, it just goes from dead cold to warm on the gauge so definitely the thermostat is the culprit.

Hopefully I can get this thermostat and speedometer cable T/M today so I can do the inspection tomorrow....just like everything else in my life, this is a total scramble to get everything done.

[xise]

After much aggravation and cursing I got my speedometer working again, what a fricken pain it was...I was oh so pleased to see my ABS light was still one, still no AWD and still have code 42 for the idle switch. I have to bring this car in tomorrow to get it failed for inspection b/c of the ABS light..not sure why it was still one, I figured the speedometer would be the cure all except maybe the code 42.

This is becoming extremely annoying at this point, I just want this shit to work the way it is supposed to!!!!

[sqc151]

pull the bulb.

[xise]

I was thinking about doing that, but I would like the ABS to work b/c this is going to be my wife's DD. The ABS should work, there is no reason for that light to be on, the wheel speed sensors are new, the speedometer works, but everytime I put it into D and get moving the ABS light always comes on..just pisses me off.

[Legacy777]

After much aggravation and cursing I got my speedometer working again, what a fricken pain it was...I was oh so pleased to see my ABS light was still one, still no AWD and still have code 42 for the idle switch. I have to bring this car in tomorrow to get it failed for inspection b/c of the ABS light..not sure why it was still one, I figured the speedometer would be the cure all except maybe the code 42.

This is becoming extremely annoying at this point, I just want this shit to work the way it is supposed to!!!!

Adjust the TPS per these instructions. If that doesn't get rid of the idle switch you should check the wiring from the TPS to the ECU since I know you already swapped TPS's.

http://main.experiencetherave.com/subar ... sting3.jpg

[Legacy777]

I was thinking about doing that, but I would like the ABS to work b/c this is going to be my wife's DD. The ABS should work, there is no reason for that light to be on, the wheel speed sensors are new, the speedometer works, but everytime I put it into D and get moving the ABS light always comes on..just pisses me off.

Get the CEL to go off after you fix the idle switch, and then reset the ECU and see if the ABS light comes on.

[Legacy777]

Found this little bad boy in my parts pile today while searching for something else. Didn't know I had this. Brand new OEM thermostat. This is what it's supposed to look like. Bigger than any thermostat I've ever seen before.

The subaru thermostat should fix your cooling issues (assuming there's nothing else wrong). These engines do not like anything but Subaru t-stats. I found that out back around 1995 when I got my car.

[Legacy777]

I have never used a bleeder screw on any subaru when bleeding the air from the coolant system. Didn't even know there was one. Pretty sure there's not actually but I may be wrong.

There is no bleeder screw on the turbo legacy radiators, only on the non-turbo legacy radiators. The bleeder screw is where that line comes off the passenger side of the radiator across the intake manifold and to the coolant tank.

[Legacy777]

As you can see my daughter also approves of the decals lol

Cute daughter!