More wiring questions for ej22t swap

[tsbpenguin]

Finally getting close to completing my swap into my 93 n/a legacy. Couple wiring questions.
First:
On the passenger side of the engine compartment, on the front side of the wheel well there is an assembly with one plug into a small silver box which i've come to believe is a resistor for the injectors. The boost control assembly obviously replaces that and has it's own silver box (resistor) on the back side of it. I'm assuming I should use the one on the boost control assembly? If so, the connectors are different, should I just splice the wires?

Second:
I am converting from the original 4eat to a 5mt out of a 98 forester. There are 2 small connectors for the sensors. One is grey and one is orange/brown. They both have 2 wires and the same style connector. Neither is the speed sensor (replacing with the original mechanical speed sensor). What are these 2 connectors and where do I need to wire them into?

[tsbpenguin]

Ok so I just came across a thread saying that the resistor was actually for the 4eat, and since im doing 5mt I won't need it at all. Can I get confirmation on this?

EDIT: Thank god for search function and free time.

Resistor is not needed. Grey is reverse switch, brown is neutral switch. Sorry for wasting forum space and acting all around noobish

[wtdash]

Hi,
You can use a '90-91 dropping resistor plug (that silver sensor you found on the pass. strut tower) for the BCS - boost control solenoid - if you're using an MBC - manual BC. Here's a THREAD on it.


Enjoy the boost....and good luck avoiding the 'mod addiction'.
Td

[tsbpenguin]

Ya once i figured out what the part was, I found that thread on using MBC (or EBC as I will be doing). I most definitely have a severe case of mod addiction. After owning a modded b5 s4, it's difficult to be happy with just about any car. I have a separate ej22t block that i'm using to build a stroker on the side. Just working on getting a basic swap completed to get her back on the road in the mean time. Wiring projects are just not my strong suit.

[tsbpenguin]

When wiring the neutral switch and reverse switch, is there a negative and positive, or does it just complete the circuit either way?

[wtdash]

Hi,
I 'spose the wiring diagram would tell....but check out Legacy777's site HERE.

FSM info HERE.

Td

[tsbpenguin]

Ya I've done plenty of reading up on the build site and the wiring diagrams. The problem is that since i'm using a newer tranny, it has two seperate 2 wire plugs instead of one 4 wire plug. So I don't know which wire is the lead wire and which is the ground for each. Trying to figure out if it even matters.

[wtdash]

Hmmm...I should remember as I put a '98 Forester 5-speed in my '90 Lego a little over a year ago....I just reviewed my email link w/Legacy777, and here's what Josh wrote me:

You need to wire up the reverse lights & neutral switch from the MT. If you can get a hold of a chassis side connectors, you can again wire these guys up through the transmission plug you cut off the AT. This would make all the connections plug & play.

If you can't get the MT connectors for the neutral & reverse lights, just use some waterproof spade connectors connected to the AT plug you removed from the trans

BTW, my car was a full 5MPH slower than what the Speedo showed - this was w/225-50R-16 tires....the '90 originally had the 4.11, but only 185-70R-14 tires.

I trust you have the rear diff out of the Forester or another 4.11 sourced?

Td

[tsbpenguin]

Ya I got lucky and scored tranny, mount, driveshaft, rear diff, rear axles, shifter linkage, shifter, pedals, master & slave cyl, and flywheel all together.

[wtdash]

^ cool...not sure the DS will fit. Forester is actually shorter (Impreza-based), then the Legacy. I had a '95 Legacy shaft and it didn't, so I ended up using a '91 (?) and had to change the pinion flange on the rear diff to match...they/Subaru changed the bolt pattern in '95+ time-frame.

Notes from my swap:

I went to install the driveshaft and it's too long - It's from a 1995 Legacy. The center carrier bearing (?) is about 2" too far back and the rear connection to the diff is about the same.

Td

[tsbpenguin]

I just remembered I actually got the driveshaft from a 93 legacy 5mt. Traded my A/T driveshaft for it. But you're right, the flange is different.

[tsbpenguin]

Wow just finished modifying an ej22 harness to fit the ej22t coolant temp sensors. Total of 5 minutes lol. Thanks to Josh for steering me clear of re pinning the harness, or installing the legacy turbo body side of the harness. Saved me hours of headache.

[Legacy777]

Yup....just moving the wiring is SOO much easier

As for your question on the switches, it doesn't matter which one is positive and which one is negative. The switch is just completing the circuit.

[tsbpenguin]

Awesome that's pretty much what I figured.

Any good links on how to add the pins to the ECU harness? Is there a way of pulling the plug apart, or do you just slide the connectors through the back?

[Legacy777]

You just need to unclip the two clips on the back of the ECU connectors and then just slide the new pins in from the back.

To remove pins from the ECU connector, I found a small flat head screwdriver inserted from the back through the pin works. Then just pull the wire and screwdriver out. You have to kind of look and see where the plastic clip is that holds the pin in. You might be able to reach the clip from the front side of the connector. Just take a look at it, and you should get an idea on how to do it.