Xise's 1993 Legacy Turbo

[mike-tracy]

LOL!

[xise]

I can stick on my Grandma's Lancer lol, she probably won't even notice

[xise]

Next on my list of things to do:

[cj91legss]

You need to have that sticker in your window next to a pacman sticker

[xise]

lol, I don't think any stickers are going on this thing....maybe the whiteline stickers just got

So I noticed some bubbles in my header tank yesterday, Sex Panther has been consuming coolant slowly for a while now and this is the first time I have noticed bubbles, very small fine bubbles. No white smoke from the exhaust or coolant smell, but it always seems to be low, and seeping from somewhere..there is usually some drips on the thermostat housing but that plus the rubber hose look fine...could it be coming from the water pump? is that common?

If it's the pump I guess that means a new T belt and oil pump, I also have some cam seals, but I am not opening that can o' worms unless it actually is leaking oil there...

In any case I def have a coolant leak, a PS leak still which seems to mingle with the coolant and burn on the manifold which somehow smells just like engine oil burning... I am pretty sure I have ruled out the trans fluid leaking, there is clearly plenty of fluid in there, but it is only readable cold or turned off, with the motor running it is dry on the dipstick, even if i cycle through the gears.....but showing right where it is supposed to be when off and cold, should be completely the other way from other AT cars I have had....what gives? I still have code 12 for duty solenoid B also....shifts fine wouldn't ever notice something is wrong, although it does seem like the torque converter very rarely locks the diffs together...maybe why I can't get the ass end out except on gravel/mud?

[Legacy777]

lol, I don't think any stickers are going on this thing....maybe the whiteline stickers just got

So I noticed some bubbles in my header tank yesterday, Sex Panther has been consuming coolant slowly for a while now and this is the first time I have noticed bubbles, very small fine bubbles. No white smoke from the exhaust or coolant smell, but it always seems to be low, and seeping from somewhere..there is usually some drips on the thermostat housing but that plus the rubber hose look fine...could it be coming from the water pump? is that common?

Pressure testing the cooling system along with a hydrocarbon sniffer test is really what needs to be done to determine where the coolant leak is (if external), and the sniffer test will tell you if you have a headgasket leak.

In any case I def have a coolant leak, a PS leak still which seems to mingle with the coolant and burn on the manifold which somehow smells just like engine oil burning... I am pretty sure I have ruled out the trans fluid leaking, there is clearly plenty of fluid in there, but it is only readable cold or turned off, with the motor running it is dry on the dipstick, even if i cycle through the gears.....but showing right where it is supposed to be when off and cold, should be completely the other way from other AT cars I have had....what gives? I still have code 12 for duty solenoid B also....shifts fine wouldn't ever notice something is wrong, although it does seem like the torque converter very rarely locks the diffs together...maybe why I can't get the ass end out except on gravel/mud?

There should be fluid on the trans dipstick when the engine is running at idle. If you've checked the ATF level with the car & trans up to temp (driving 10+ miles), engine idling on a level surface after cycling slowly from P to 1 and back to P and there's no fluid on the dipstick, your trans is low on fluid.

Be careful not to overfill the trans and keep in mind there are both HOT & COLD fill marks on the dipstick.

[xise]

I remember adding over a quart of trans fluid before at my school and it still never registered once you have the car idling.....how many quarts does a 4eat take?

[cj91legss]

7.8 qts or something like that of ATF and 2 or 3qts of gear oil for the front diff.

[xise]

ok well I will try to add some and see if I can ever get it to the proper levels

[Legacy777]

Make sure you're adding trans oil to the proper dipstick. Trans is on the driver's side and gear oil is on the passengers side.

[cj91legss]

+1 I've messed that up before Hahaha

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[xise]

I can only imagine how much that must suck, lol. Thanks I already know that much, now that you mention it I wonder if the gear oil was changed when they did the trans job, I imagine it was but who knows with AAMCO's track record...

I am going to get this trans leak taken care of tomorrow, maybe I can also tackle the coolant and PS leak as well...coolant I am starting to fear the worst, looks like it is leaking from the timing cover.....oh boyo

I got busy at radio shack today, got the resistors I need to make my block for my 50/50 split switch

My resistor block all made up, someone robbed all the switches from radio shack so i'll have to grab some at autozone...

then decide exactly where to stick em, either next to the ebrake or up where the air ride switch would be...I am also going to make a power mode switch..but that will be simple.

Got some ideas from another thread about how to make a torque split gauge. The duty cycle of solenoid C goes from 95% (under 20mph) to just about 70% (above 20mph) 95% is the 90/10 split and I am guessing the cruising speed 70% would be like 80/20? or 70/30? not sure, 0% would be basically what the switch is creating which is the 50/50 so I am going to have to come up with a scale to assign the torque ratio with the duty cycle value, get that duty cycle to reference a voltage from 1-12V that will display on a bar LED, that I can flip over and label depending on what voltage relates to what duty cycle %.... I am almost positive that 12V is given to duty C when the FWD fuse is in place so that is like 100% I am thinking 100%=12V and 0%=0V and 50% obviously would be 6V and also 75/25 if this is a linear thing that is a flat line if it were graphed.

so here is the breakdown:
100% = 100/0 = 12V FWD Fuse in place
-95% = 90/10 = 11V
-90% = ??/?? = 10V
-80% = ??/?? = 9V
-70% = ??/?? = 8V
-60% = ??/?? = 7V
-50% = 75/25 = 6V
-40% = ??/??? = 5V
-30% = ??/?? = 4V
-25% = ??/??? = 3V
-20% = ??/??? = 2V
-10% = ??/?? = 1V
-00% = 50/50 = 0V Duty Solenoid C Bypassed

it doesn't really matter what the exact torques split is at each level, it only matters that the duty cycle % relates to a voltage, I know there are PWM units that store voltage from a duty cycle and convert it into a solid DC voltage....just need to find on that gives 0-12V or 1-12V off on a 0-100% duty cycle...this might take some doin'

[Legacy777]

Yeah I'm not sure about the voltages and torque split. It may just be you'll need to do some trial and error.

You are correct though that by inserting the FWD fuse, 12v is fed to the duty c solenoid, which makes it 100% FWD.

[xise]

Not entirely, I am going to have to hook up the DSO and drive around, maybe read the 4eat manual and see if it says anything about duty cycles related to the torque split, I would like it to be accurate if I a going through all this trouble. I had it in FWD mode to drive it when my driveshaft was free-balling it, the driveshaft still spins so the rear wheels still seem to be in the picture, maybe it just allows them to slip or rotate independently....seems like more research is needed to be 100% sure and accurate.

This thing might call for an actual printed circuit board, it will still be fairly simple but it is going to need to be on the small side....I was thinking of getting inside the cluster and maybe removing the gear indicator on the dash and sticking it in there...that would be cool but a pain, I'm just not sure where I can mount it and have it be visible...

[xise]

Resistor block is done, it is giving 17.8 Ohms so hopefully that isn't too much...aslo this was a harbor frieght multimeter I got for free so it might not be 100% accurate.

[xise]

Mounted em where they are going to end up, the power mode switch right next to the steering column, and the AWD switch right next to the ebrake....not sure what the other switch will be for but I am sure I will think of something

[Legacy777]

I like the power mode switch.....it's hard core

[xise]

Thanks Josh, hey is 17.8 ohms too much for that switch to work right? what does the ECU look for for that solenoid?

[Legacy777]

Based on the diagnostic from the FSM, the duty c solenoid's resistance is between 9 - 15 ohms

http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/s ... _diag2.jpg

If all you're looking to do is sink power to it, that will probably work....but you'll probably have to try it and see.

[xise]

Just trying to have the trans not give off a code when I send power through the resistor, if the ECU is ok with almost 18 ohms then fine so am I.

After I get the trans pan to stop leaking I will get this switch done, hell I might even just do it before then.

[xise]

You know I was thinking about something that I might try out. Seeing how there are 4 resistors on that block I could make a few circuits to run through different stages of the resistor using a multipole switch like a dial. That would effectively raise the resistance respectively across 4 switch positions I wish I would have thought about that before I soldered it all together.

and here is my other idea, since voltage lowers in accord with impedance, I could just connect the voltage bar meter to the circuit and just position it upside down to correspond with the "torque balance" I didn't realize that circuit gave up to 14v..the lights might flicker a bit...might actually look cool

[xise]

something like this, I'll probably add some more lights, might use different colors etc.

I am guessing these are just a bunch of voltage limiting diodes in series with each light...pretty simple stuff. I'll just need to make sure it isn't leaching too much voltage from the circuit, I can use leds so there is almost no drop or even add a capacitor on the power side to stabalize everything...I thing I might like the jumpy flickering duty cycle style though..i'l have to try it both ways..i'll post some videos when I am done.

[xise]

Ripped into the timing belt today, looks like my leak has been found, the water pump, oil pump and passenger's side cam seal were leaking...also the timing belt was off by 2 teeth on the driver's side cam

Honestly I am amazed it ran as good and had as much power as it did....that also means it will run even better once I get it all back together

didn't really get to far into it today, got the water pump out and then realized the hydraulic adjuster was not included in the timing belt kit I have. I also still need the rubber seal for the cover and to grab the timing cover plastic covers from the other motor as these are all broken on the mounting holes.

[sqc151]

get a wrx adjuster. its a 1 piece vs the ss 2 piece.

[cj91legss]

And the bracket it bolts too if you go that route

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