Engine codes 22,23,32,45, and 49..... WTF

[Thesubielover]

So when I get my car back I went to start it and it cranked right over and runs just fine at idle (750 rpms). When it is cold, it seems like it drives fine, but as soon as it gets warm or starts to take a load it seems like the engine is running really rich. I can smell the gas. Vacuum is resting around 20, re connected the entire intake and intercooler and nothing really changed. When I checked my check engine light (which was not there before) it threw codes 22, and 49. Which I think are mas air flow (which would make sense since it was sitting in the weather for 2 months) and knock sensor. When I checked these two things, I blew into the mass air flow and wiggled the knock sensor just under the intake mani and was able to drive it more then 15ft. Any thoughts (thanks kimo!!) would be greatly appreciated. I posted a thread in the parts shed for a maf sensor and a knock sensor. Can I skip the oem one and install the jecs one or the na one that some of the guys do, and would it be a direct swao or would it be better to run the oem 22t one?

[Legacy777]

Code 49 is indicating that the "wrong" MAF sensor is being used. Is the silver metal MAF sensor installed? If so the MAF or the wiring may be bad. You can use a non-turbo silver hitachi metal MAF. They're the same. You can not use the black JECS plastic MAF's.

The knock sensor, I'd recommend getting a new one, whether you get one from Subaru or an autoparts store. Subaru changed the design and changed the color of the connector (white vs. the older gray color) to indicate whether it is the new design or not

[Thesubielover]

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp ... Assigned=1

[chrisshara]

Get an OEM knock sensor. You won't be disappointed. And the price difference between the aftermarket sensor and OEM sensor is, typically, not significant.

There is a reason that Subaru has implemented a design change to a ton of their knock sensors. Feel confident that you received a knock sensor of the latest design revision by going OEM.

If you are friends with a local shop or garage, ask the friendly guys at your local garage to order the sensor from Subaru, for you. They get a "best garage price," discount, and if they are nice they should pass on the savings to you.

[Legacy777]

Alternatively, you can get pretty good pricing through the online Subaru dealers

www.subarugenuineparts.com
www.subaruparts.com
www.1stsubaruparts.com

[Thesubielover]

I'll check these sites out, thanks Josh. The car was stored in a grassy field off of a logging road for two months. I'm not sure if the hood was up for sometime or not. But the engine bay does have a fair amount of white residue on the intake mani, metal maf sensor housing (which looks like the stock one i had on). So maybe the maf sensor could have gotten moist, or wet while it was sitting for that long in the rainy season up here in seattle. the knock sesnsor does not appear crack etc, but ill repleace it for good measure,=. I am NOW shwing code 23 which is linked through the maf sesor as well. so This should be the main issue. Maybe the wiring for it too josh? The wiring on it appears intact, but like i said. it sat in a wet area (wet enough to mold my seats a little) for two months, and the hood was closed when it was towed out, but im sure he had the hood up while he was out there.

[Thesubielover]

So I pulled the knock sensor, and it was cracked in two places. Sprayed maf spray on the sensor and replaced the knock sensor, took it for a drive and nothing has changed. I checked the codes again and still, I am getting 22, 23, and 49. But now I am getting 22,23,32,45, and 49. 32 and 45, one of those is the atmospheric pressure sensor, and the other is the o2 sensor. Do you think aside from the maf sensor and knock sensor that these two new codes 32, and 45 would account for some choppy acceleration and if to much gas is applied run its self rich and die? Almost like its in limp mode

note; I pulled off the timing belt covers and the thing looks brand new. kimo thought it may have jumped teeth?

[Someperson]

I'd replace the wiring harness, the wires are prob corroded as hell from the wet

[Thesubielover]

What does that consist of? Im ready to have this running again.

[Someperson]

All of the wires in the engine bay? Injector harness, maf wiring, the works

[mike-tracy]

Before you change out the harness, I've seen people having these codes come on all at once before.

http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=43352
http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=38556
http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=47118

Have you reset the ECU or just reset the codes? They're two different things. Have you cleaned all the grounds in the engine bay?

Is the knock sensor factory?

[Thesubielover]

So here is an update. Checked knock sensor position, and its pointing the way the old one was. It is the new style with the white connector. Cleaned maf sensor, took for test drive. Watching the boost guage, this car only likes to be driven around in vaccume. Even getting around -4vac, it still was starting to run rich and loose power. My symptoms are like the third post mike put up. How do I check my ecu, and I should peridot change or check my o2 sensor as im sure its seen water since stolen, maybe mud, or rust. Would that cause these issues too? Knock sensor was fairly easy, just a pain when rotating into place and getting to bolt down there.

[Thesubielover]

Trying the ecu reset. Haven't done that after knock sensor fix. Would that make a difference in my issues?

[Thesubielover]

Rest the ecu after doing the knock sensor, and nothing changed. Just waiting on getting back to the car to run it without the o2 sensor plugged in which i read on here. Then unscrewing it and seeing if its rusted of gummed up.

[Thesubielover]

bump on what you guys think about o2 sensors and our cars

[Thesubielover]

Will a second gen maf sensor work?

[Thesubielover]

Also, I am thinking of checking for any cracked vaccume lines around the intake and boost solenoid. Would it be wise to hook back into the stock solenoid and not have the mbc hooked up until these are resolved?

[Legacy777]

The second gen MAF won't work. You need to be using the aluminum hitachi MAF's. Yes, I'd put things back to the stock boost control solenoid for now.

When you reset the ECU, do the same codes come back?

[Alphius]

Having a bunch of codes come on all at once like that is indicative of a ground issue or harness issue. Make sure you check all of the grounds (including the battery) and make sure the main engine harness connectors by the battery are firmly attached. There really is not much else in the system that could cause a ton of unrelated codes to come up like that.

The O2 sensor would not be causing your issues. If you drive with it unplugged and the problem still exists that would verify that it is not affecting this issue.

Is it like a fuel cut as you approach boost? Or does it just seem to miss? Can you keep the throttle planted and drive through it or does it just get worse?

Don't take it to a mechanic, they will be as lost as you on this. 99% of mechanics these days don't diagnose, they are glorified parts changers who replace what the ECU says to replace and don't look deeper into wiring or ECU issues. I guarantee you a mechanic would replace everything that there is a code for, then tell you the ECU is dead and replace the ECU, and you would get nowhere and easily have a $1000+ bill for nothing. If you can't get it figured out, you should drive it in vacuum up here to Everett and have me look at it. My availability is limited though, the soonest I have time would be the weekend of the 5th at the earliest.

[Legacy777]

All the codes coming up aren't necessarily a ground issue, but can be caused by a variety of things, including ground issues.

As I mentioned, do the same codes come up when you reset the ECU? If you haven't tried, try the active diagnostic with the green connectors.

[Thesubielover]

Ill update the forum soon. My mom just paid to have it seen at subaru as part of my christmas gift. I'll take you up on coming to you. Its in bothell kenmore area now, so thats half the trip. Ill owe you something. Perhaps a nice bottle of whiskey?

[Thesubielover]

Josh, ill try those and see what comes up. I think I only used that method to clear the ecu. Thanks guys.

[Thesubielover]

Is it like a fuel cut as you approach boost? Or does it just seem to miss? Can you keep the throttle planted and drive through it or does it just get worse?

I didnt think it was the o2 sensor. I think it is the map sensor. I was talinking to a fellow member on here and stumbled upon his thread. He litterally had the exact same symptoms as me down to a "T". As far as trying to plant to the foot while driving, I have tried to give it more throttle and it bucks and begins to smell really rich until the car runs without a load and leans back out then runs just fine. I'll try and find that members post and link it to this one as it may be helpgul for other ppl

[Thesubielover]

This is his thread on the similar issue:

http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?t=49270



Here is what he said when I asked if the issue was fixed:

I replaced all of my vacuum/boost lines which solved the problem for like a week and then it came back. Searched high and low for a replacement map sensor, finally found one in a junk yard in Europe, ship it over here, installed it and it fixed the issue. Hasn't resurfaced since

[Thesubielover]

so I drive it again and called PIA. When I it, it starts to big down and then will build up to 5 pounds of boost while pulling then goes into vaccume for the rest of the pull, like its limiting boost pressure. Jake thinks its the MAP sensor. Based on the research I've done, I agree