22T swap turbo electrical questions

[WagonMafia]

I drive a 93 n/a wagon, 5mt, and just dropped my 92 2.2 turbo motor in. I swapped the ecu, swapped my cam/crank positives at the ecu connector, and she fired. GREAT! Now I need to wire in my turbo-related sensors, regulators and switches. I'M RUNNING A STOCK N/A ENGINE HARNESS. Which do I need and which don't I need? I'm not intercooling it, nothing aftermarket, just stock. I like pictures and diagrams. I've searched and searched, but not EXACTLY what I'm in search of. Also, can someone tell me how to plumb the TOO coolant line coming off my t-stat housing?? I had alot of messed up/hard/broken plastic and rubber lines, I had to get creative with hoses and t's and such.

[Legacy777]

If you swapped the ECU, the positive leads for the crank & cam sensors, then really all you need to do is add the wiring for the MAP sensor, pressure exchange solenoid, and wastegate solenoid.

In addition, I've found that some of the 92+ non-turbo cars had the wiring of the MT/AT identifier pin wired backwards, so you may need to verify that.

Which coolant line are you referring to? You can find lots of pictures from my swap pictures to help identify things.

http://main.experiencetherave.com/subaru/images/ej22t/
http://main.experiencetherave.com/subar ... t_headwork

[WagonMafia]

Pretty much just having issues finding the correct sized pins for the ecu connector. Can't find the small ones.

[WagonMafia]

Alright, so... I can't stress how difficult this is for me with all the broken parts I have. Perfectly formed OEM hoses broken, split, rock hard rubber. Ugh. Not helping a gd thing at all. I've been graced with help from a co-worker all three days, coming in on his days off. I work at a subi shop in Tempe SubiWorx, so this is basically the place to be, and I'm trying to show what I'm made of. I got the crank pos (+) and cam pos (+) right. I had a help of a time getting the crank pin to stay in the connector. What is Tue best way to do this, ecu out dangling or mounted? FTR: to be obvious to those doubtful; the ecu is under the LHD steering column above the fuse panel. I'm danglin' right now. I pinned in the sensors added because turbo. Should run w/o them...

[WagonMafia]

Nope. Kinda wants to but won't hold an idle. Now YESTERDAY I had the throttle stuck open a tad nd it held a 2500rpm race, sounded good too. I inspected and re-gasketed the whole engine, cleaning as I go. I didn't split the block or take pistons out, but it looked and felt good. Good compression, all even, 88k miles on doner. And it ra n roughly when I got it. I've done it over 2-3 years and after salvaging what I needed I gave the carcass to a buddy piecing together another white n/a wagon.He live 4 hrs away. Boo. ANYWAY... Gonna go back tomorrow and fight her again. I really need to get it out of the shop per bossman. Tomorrow will make 4 full days and I'm getting po'd maaan! Plus, its supposed to be my dd!

[WagonMafia]

Wow, forgot to share my codes show right now. 11 crank sensor 45 pressure sensor and 22 I think wastgate control. I'll update in the am. The car should run without the turbo related sensors. I had it running briefly without sensors wired. I checked vac lines they looked fine.

[WagonMafia]

Day 4: update- plugged turbo ecu in 1st thing this am and it fired first try and held a 2k idle.

[Legacy777]

Does the idle come down? If not, the MT/AT identifier pin is likely wired backwards on that chassis.

[WagonMafia]

777, went from 92 ss auto into my 93 n/a wagon.

[Legacy777]

Did you swap the entire 92 ss electrical harness into the 93 non-turbo chassis? If not, the MT/AT identifier pin is likely reversed between the harnesses.

Is your 93 MT or AT?

[WagonMafia]

My wagon is an original n/a 5mt. Now I'm getting crank no start, codes 11, 22, and 35. Now this morning my f. pump relay was buzzing, so I removed it, and now my abs relay is buzzing making the tach dance. I'm so buggered...

[Legacy777]

I would check the MT/AT identifier pin to see if there is a wire going to it. If you're using the stock turbo legacy ECU, there should not be a wire going to it.

As for your issues, I'd start with code 11, which is the crank sensor and verify it's good and working properly.

[WagonMafia]

I emailed you, just easier for me to communicate.

[Legacy777]

Ok, I'll check my email.

[WagonMafia]

Just emailed, must have not sent the 1st time.

[WagonMafia]

Got the car home, went to drive it yesterday and it cranks, no start. Even at an elevated idle I could at least drive it, but I can't get it running again. Who wants to but a swapped leggy wagon for cheap right now? I'm in Chandler, Az.

[Legacy777]

Are you still wanting to troubleshoot it, or have you had enough and want to get rid of it?

Have you done the basics like check for spark, fuel, and correct timing?

[WagonMafia]

All of the above mentioned has been checked. When it idles around 1k, it sounds greadt so I don't believe its mis-timed. What if I put my iridiums in?

[Legacy777]

You could try it, but I don't think it will make any difference unless the current plugs are bad.

[WagonMafia]

It won't start first thing in the morning, only after it warms up a little.

[Legacy777]

That would make me suspicious of the coolant temp sensor.