Xise's 1993 Legacy Turbo

[Chris38]

I decided to replace the gauge lights today, one was actually burnt out too. I used 2 194 high intensity purple, 2 74 led purple and 2 74 led amber lights on the ends for the fuel and temp gauges...you can't tell but it makes the needles light up more brightly, they might be better in red so I might try those int he future.

I know they look blue here but trust me, they are purple as fuck, not sure why they look so blue...speaking of things that look blue on camera for some reason, I got these.

I read somewhere you need the PFR69-123, These are the 122....not sure if they will fit but the look like they should. Can anyone confirm??

I think you did a good job. I like it.

[xise]

Thanks man, I wish you could see it in person, it looks waay better and the colors look a lot cooler too.

Ok so I bough a 2 gauge pod and mounted my boost gauge, plumbed it, I just need to hook the backlight into a good source, I want to plug it into something that is on the cluster dimmer switch. I was thinking maybe the cigarette lighter or the shifter illumination.... Also it seems as though I only have about 10"Hg of vac, and it only boosts to 5psi @ WOT, so I think I have a boost leak at that 90 degree plastic elbow right off the VF11...I get that air rushing sound when I peg the pedal, is that typical of boost leak noise?

I also wanted to install an AFR gauge in the other pod, it is a voltmeter for 50 seconds then switches to AFR, it can be both narrow and wideband it has 4 wires, I havent bought it yet so I am not sure what wire goes to what.... I know norrow band is 0-1V and wideband is 0-5V...I would like both to display at the same time but I have never wired one up before.

The wideband displays from 10-20:1 and the narrow band displays as a barled from rich to optimal to lean....not sure how it can do all this with just 4 wires but somehow it does.

It has the following wires:

Red -> 12V B+
Green ->o2 sensor ?
Yellow ->o2 sensor?
Black ->ground

I am just guessing that is how it is setup, I am pretty sure the stock o2 sensor is a 2 wire sensor...I would need to get a wideband o2 sensor and weld in an o2 bung into the DP and wire it to the gauge. My question is am I just tapping into one of the wires on each o2 sensor or wiring into 2 wires on each o2 sensor?

I just think it would be really cool to have the wideband display digitally and the narrow band display as the led graph around the gauge...there must be a way b/c the gauge image shows both being lit up.

It almost looks like it just uses a wideband signal and based upon that number displays a "narrowband" type bar light....can't really confirm based on the image they show only though...


this is like the cheapo ebay version of the prosport gauge

[Legacy777]

A wideband O2 sensor must have a controller, you cannot just buy a wideband O2 sensor and use it. The controllers typically have a 0-5v linear output. This is most likely what would get inputted into the gauge.

Honestly, there is absolutely no reason to display the narrow band sensor, it will give you no meaningful data, just some lights and numbers to look at.

[xise]

I know I know lol

It is a wideband gauge, and I know I need a sensor and an o2 sensor that reads 0-5v, and some kind of controller, not sure which one, hopefully the instructions will say which ones work with that gauge. These gauges are just for eye candy more than anything, we all know what combination of things work and don't for these cars, it is more to tell if you are running lean so you know you are about to be fucked. The narrow band readout is just eye candy though, I don't believe it actually shows what's happening fast enough for it to really even be accurate.

The voltage gauge that is built into it is actually kind of cool, it comes on if there is a drop under 12.1V so it is somewhat useful...

[xise]

:INSERT DRAMATIC REVERB HERE:

Another transmission leak...... on the way home I noticed a bit of slippage, then it couldn't make it up this hill so I stopped, walked to a gas station and bought 2 quarts of atf and got it home.

This time it is coming from either the feed or return line from the oil cooler in the radiator....I already fixed a leak there before so I guess it was just a matter of time before more of the hose rotted away....still wtf

[Legacy777]

Is the rubber hose what's rotted or is the actual metal piping what has rusted?

[xise]

not sure I have barely had time to look at it. I will get to it tomorrow or saturday, probably the metal tubing, that was what was rotten already, just moved further down the line I guess...I am probably just going to unbolt the hard line and run all rubber hose and just put a hose mount over there. Do you know what the ID of that hose should be?

[Legacy777]

Let me know what is the problem, because I may still have my metal cooler lines when I did my MT swap. No guarantees, but I might still have them.

[xise]

it was just a stupid rubber hose, I had used a regular oil hose when I put everything back together so it sprang a leak...$18 later I have a new hse and no leak....the next thing is the metal portion with the banjo bolt, but that still looks fine so hopefully that will be that!!

Still At transmissions suck and are a huge pain in the ass, I am saving up for a nice 5 or 6 spd dccd transmission, ill gget it little by little until I have everything, I wouldn't mind having a complete 1st gen STi swapped into this legacy. For now I just want to get my intercooler installed and fix the vacuum leak in the process...on another note I sold the other EJ22T "turbo kit" I was saving for like an OBS or something for a decent price

[Legacy777]

Ok, good deal, glad it was just a rubber line.

[xise]

yeah went cruising a bit today, was nice to be driving er around again. I have a mean vac/boost leak though only 10inHg and only 5PSi, what is waste gate pressure like 8psi??

[Legacy777]

Wastegate is around 5psi I believe.

[xise]

I need to map out my entire pcv system, I am hoping to replace that 90 elbow used for some of the PCV system and the BPV with just a solid 90* silicone elbow and route all the PCV stuff through my Grimmspeed AOS. I think it can be done, and it would clean up the needlessly convoluted PCV system this car has...seriously I think all the oil blow by is created by the piss poor factory PCV routing...it's just straight illogical.

does anyone have a chart of the pcv setup??

[Legacy777]

The stock PCV system is fine in how it's routed.

Check out this thread for more info
http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=50906

and this diagram for the pcv hose layout.
http://www.surrealmirage.com/vrg3/vacuum/ej22t_pcv.gif

[xise]

I am basically just going to replace that upper hose with the AOS system, keep the PCV valve itself and run that one hose from the manifold to my "coffee can" to get the live vacuum that was at the 90* Should wok fine

[Legacy777]

Which upper hose are you talking about? The one from the back of the block? That needs to be tied into both the PCV and pre turbo intake piping.

If you can draw up a little diagram, that would help to make sure that things don't get messed up.

[xise]

Exactly it is tied to the crank case breather tubes one on each head and connecting to the 90 elbow. The BPV is going to be replaced with a bov and the AOS piped into those breather tubes , I was then going to route the other small connector into the "coffee can" directly before the 90* so everything stay in the same flow with just an AOS routed in between the drivers/pass. cylinder heads.

[Legacy777]

I'm not sure I follow you 100% on the routing....like I said, if you could draw a diagram in paint or something, that'd be great. I would definitely route the rear vent to the AOS and then to the intake piping & PCV.

The breather hoses on the heads primarily bring fresh air into the block so they really don't need to run through the AOS. I put a simple foam filter material in the line to help coalesce any oil vapor. Then it'll just drop down into the heads.

[xise]

Right they are just crank case breathers, I am actually simplifying it a bit

I believe this should work without any issues

[Legacy777]

There is no dirty crankcase emissions coming out of the PCV valve. The PCV valve is an inlet, not outlet.

You need to take that green line and also run it into the PCV valve AND the coffee cup.

The heads primarily draw fresh air in, so your red "dirty in" isn't really accurate. I'd really suggest just leaving those lines alone. If you want to do anything, just put some foam from a lawn mower air filter in the lines, like this.

http://main.experiencetherave.com/subar ... P_6926.JPG
http://main.experiencetherave.com/subar ... P_6927.JPG
http://main.experiencetherave.com/subar ... P_6928.JPG

[xise]

Well all I know is that I am getting oil residue all inside the inlet of the turbo and also in the charge tube right before the throttle body, I want to be able to catch the oil before the turbo intlet.

I understand what you are saying, I am trying to replace that 90 elbow because it is cracked and causing a leak, I'd rather not buy a new one as that samco one is out of my price range right now. So I was going to use a plain old silicone elbow and just route everything that needed to be part of the intake to the coffee can.

believe me if I had the money, i'd save myself the hassle, get the apexi power intake, the samco V1 90 elbow, and a v1 sti intercooler and call it a day.....alas the struggles of a broke man lol

thanks for your advice though, that little tidbit about the head breather pipes ...I really should have known that it was an intake and not a vent, the other side is the vent and is routed under the intake manifold.....derp

[sqc151]

with my setup
the center goes to the intake.
the right side gets split and goes to both valve covers
the left goes to hose #4 in your diagram.

[xise]

So your setup is exactly how I had mine in the first diagram I made.....

[sqc151]

Yes, but mine goes in the #4 hose directly. It doesn't split like u have it.

[xise]

The hose routing is split from the factory on the 22T one the other end goes right into the intake...which is where the AOS lets it out anyway.