Timing Belt Tensioner Bracket

[912126]

Hi,

I have a 90 Legacy wagon.

Three years ago I replaced just the water pump. Then the upper left idler went so I replaced the two left idlers, and of course the belt.
Now the lower right (sprocket) idler died. So I'm replacing it and the tensioner idler, and, of course, the belt.
The bolt for the tensioner idler would not come out, and finally, I broke the idler (and a large chunk of aluminum) off.
Much to my relief I see here that it fastens to a removable bracket!

Questions:

Can the bracket be replaced without removing the engine?
It seems there may be a newer style part. Which should I buy?
In addition to my local junkyard, where can I get one?

Thanks for the help.

(I could not figure out where to attach my question - hence the New Topic. please move to where it should be.)

[cj91legss]

you'll have to take the ac pump and brackets off to remove the bracket, yes you can pull it out with the engine in the car, remove the fans for easier access. i cant remember if you have to remove the alternator and bracket, but you should just so you have room to work and so you can also see better.

[912126]

Thanks

[Legacy777]

I'd suggest keeping the older style tensioner. I like it better than the newer one.

[wtdash]

Hi,
A head's up, if you want to use the newer style tensioner:



You'll need the bracket, too, IIRC.

These were used on the '97+ EJ engines.

GL, TD

[912126]

Yeah, that sunk in last night sometime.
I ( of course) already have new idlers and a belt, so it would make no sense to change styles now.

I've ordered two used parts on/off/from ebay, one with an ear, the other not.
Neither says they are compatible with my 90 Legacy.
But of the twenty or so I looked at, these seem to look ok.

The part with the ear is on its way, the other is waiting for me to decide casting number 3 or 4.
So I removed the old part this morning, and it says 1.
Any ideas what casting numbers 3 and 4 are?

Thanks for the info.

[912126]

For those waiting with bated breath to see what stupid things I did next, here's an update. Both Tensioner brackets arrived. I installed the one without the ear. 90% thru re-assembly I started and ran the engine for 8 seconds, and pumped 350mL of AT fluid onto the street. The white lines on the belt lined-up with the sprocket marks so well I didn't bother to count teeth.
After running, replacing coolant and AT fluid, I drove a few miles. Initially the idle was rough, like it was going to stall but caught itself just in time. But after a few miles/minutes it calmed down and ran quieter than it has in years. Before the belt shredding, idle was not a problem.

Questions:
Could this behavior remotely be the result of the timing belt being off one tooth?
Could the ECU have been traumatized by the belt shredding incident, and need to be RESET?

Also, the extra Bracket with the ear (casting # 4) will be in the Shed.

Thanks for any and all comments.

[Legacy777]

It couldn't hurt to reset the ECU. If the lines on the belt aligned, it should be good, assuming it didn't skip a tooth when you started it up. Did you rotate the motor by hand before starting it up so the tensioner would take up the slack?