Grounding Mod FTW! (Inexpensively too)
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Grounding Mod FTW! (Inexpensively too)
I've read my share of reviews and feedback on the various "expensive" & "cheap" Ground Mod Kits that are offered and I've also seen the kits that people have come up with at their local store (home improvement or electronics store).
Once I read an article in Import Tuner magazine not too long ago (Turbo & High-Tech Performance Magazine did a similar article in 2003) about how they installed a kit on a WRX that belongs to one of the magazine's writers. They gave a full How-To and feedback with dyno results . Granted many people will state that low HP gain readings from a dyno can be fluctuations and inaccurate. I personally believe that any help to the electrical system can be a benefit that could result in gained HP (primarily from stronger and more consistent spark for a better fuel burn).
My primary reason for even considering taking the time to perform a Grounding Mod upgrade would be to better supply the OE locations with a more direct ground connection with the battery. Also, as the pics below show, as 20yrs of grime & weather have worked their way under the hood the stock ground wires have become tarnished and slightly corroded. I have little flickers in the dash lights when activating the brake light switch and also the turn signals. With a strong battery and clean terminals, this can greatly be associated to the OE grounds becoming weak over the years.
I've looked at all the kits that are deemed "professional" that many of the companies sell for $30-$70. While they look impressive and pretty, I can't justify that kind of cash spent. Being an old car audio salesman & installer, I've acquired tons of connectors and various lengths of good quality wire. So I went through my collection and came up with a 20' length of Lightning Audio 10 AWG wire (black) and plenty of insulated 10 AWG ring terminals. Time to get busy!
Looking a the engine bay I located 4 primary locations that required upgrading and attention. Two of the locations are the most obvious, which are the left and right strut towers, the third location was the coil pack mounting point on the intake manifold and the fourth was the alternator bracket. I personally added the radiator support as a fifth location, but that is mainly because I have my Hella Supertone horns grounded there. I loosely ran wire to the DS strut tower and the intake manifold to measure out my two main runs. I used the mounting points for the coil pack as a jumper/distribution point to make a run to the near by alternator and out to the PS strut tower. After I had my lengths of wire I headed to the work bench to assure a solid connection between the ring terminal and the wire. Soldering time!
Most may consider this over kill, I consider it cheap insurance. I removed all the plastic insulators that were on the ring terminals because I didn't want the yellow plastic showing under the hood, plus I have plenty of heat shrink tubing to add at the end. With all the ring terminals crimped and soldered, I added the heat shrink tubing to seal off the job and coated everything lightly with dielectric grease as a last bit of insurance against future corrosion. I used my cordless drill and soft bristle wire wheel to clean up the OE ring terminals and brake parts cleaner to remove any remaining road grime. Apply more dielectric grease and add the new ground wires.
Started the old girl up and saw an immediate improvement at the battery terminal since my aftermarket terminals (positive) also have a voltage gauge. My normal reading at start up would be 13.8 to 14.0. After the mod, 14.3 to 14.4 AND a much smoother idle. I haven't had much of a chance to put many miles on it yet to see a MPG improvement but I have noticed a smoother run through the RPM range while running it hard.
Once I read an article in Import Tuner magazine not too long ago (Turbo & High-Tech Performance Magazine did a similar article in 2003) about how they installed a kit on a WRX that belongs to one of the magazine's writers. They gave a full How-To and feedback with dyno results . Granted many people will state that low HP gain readings from a dyno can be fluctuations and inaccurate. I personally believe that any help to the electrical system can be a benefit that could result in gained HP (primarily from stronger and more consistent spark for a better fuel burn).
My primary reason for even considering taking the time to perform a Grounding Mod upgrade would be to better supply the OE locations with a more direct ground connection with the battery. Also, as the pics below show, as 20yrs of grime & weather have worked their way under the hood the stock ground wires have become tarnished and slightly corroded. I have little flickers in the dash lights when activating the brake light switch and also the turn signals. With a strong battery and clean terminals, this can greatly be associated to the OE grounds becoming weak over the years.
I've looked at all the kits that are deemed "professional" that many of the companies sell for $30-$70. While they look impressive and pretty, I can't justify that kind of cash spent. Being an old car audio salesman & installer, I've acquired tons of connectors and various lengths of good quality wire. So I went through my collection and came up with a 20' length of Lightning Audio 10 AWG wire (black) and plenty of insulated 10 AWG ring terminals. Time to get busy!
Looking a the engine bay I located 4 primary locations that required upgrading and attention. Two of the locations are the most obvious, which are the left and right strut towers, the third location was the coil pack mounting point on the intake manifold and the fourth was the alternator bracket. I personally added the radiator support as a fifth location, but that is mainly because I have my Hella Supertone horns grounded there. I loosely ran wire to the DS strut tower and the intake manifold to measure out my two main runs. I used the mounting points for the coil pack as a jumper/distribution point to make a run to the near by alternator and out to the PS strut tower. After I had my lengths of wire I headed to the work bench to assure a solid connection between the ring terminal and the wire. Soldering time!
Most may consider this over kill, I consider it cheap insurance. I removed all the plastic insulators that were on the ring terminals because I didn't want the yellow plastic showing under the hood, plus I have plenty of heat shrink tubing to add at the end. With all the ring terminals crimped and soldered, I added the heat shrink tubing to seal off the job and coated everything lightly with dielectric grease as a last bit of insurance against future corrosion. I used my cordless drill and soft bristle wire wheel to clean up the OE ring terminals and brake parts cleaner to remove any remaining road grime. Apply more dielectric grease and add the new ground wires.
Started the old girl up and saw an immediate improvement at the battery terminal since my aftermarket terminals (positive) also have a voltage gauge. My normal reading at start up would be 13.8 to 14.0. After the mod, 14.3 to 14.4 AND a much smoother idle. I haven't had much of a chance to put many miles on it yet to see a MPG improvement but I have noticed a smoother run through the RPM range while running it hard.
'92 Legacy Sport - Daily Driver & SCCA AutoX (Class: SM)
"When in doubt, flat out!" Colin McRae 1968-2007
"When in doubt, flat out!" Colin McRae 1968-2007
Re: Grounding Mod FTW! (Inexpensively too)
Nice write-up!
Another place that commonly gets missed is the grounding point on the back of the intake manifold. ALL the ECU/TCU grounds go to that spot. I ran an additional wire from that spot directly to the battery to eliminate any difference in grounding potential between the engine and chassis/battery.
Another place that commonly gets missed is the grounding point on the back of the intake manifold. ALL the ECU/TCU grounds go to that spot. I ran an additional wire from that spot directly to the battery to eliminate any difference in grounding potential between the engine and chassis/battery.
Josh
surrealmirage.com/subaru
1990 Legacy (AWD, 6MT, & EJ22T Swap)
2020 Outback Limted XT
If you need to get a hold of me please email me rather then pm
surrealmirage.com/subaru
1990 Legacy (AWD, 6MT, & EJ22T Swap)
2020 Outback Limted XT
If you need to get a hold of me please email me rather then pm
Re: Grounding Mod FTW! (Inexpensively too)
Thanks for the feedback!!
I'm not sure how much an extra ground there would help since I had already placed a ground at the main body of the manifold.
OH, since I neglected to mention it... Total cost involved for the amount of wire used (7ft) and a pack of ring terminals should fall under $15.00. For any older car with aging grounding points, this is a must!
Also remember that taking the time to clean up any existing connection with a Dremel or wire wheel on a drill will greatly help as well. You can pick up small packs of dielectric grease at any auto parts store in the small foil packs for around $1.00 instead of buying an $8.00 tube you'll likely end up wasting or giving away.
I'm not sure how much an extra ground there would help since I had already placed a ground at the main body of the manifold.
OH, since I neglected to mention it... Total cost involved for the amount of wire used (7ft) and a pack of ring terminals should fall under $15.00. For any older car with aging grounding points, this is a must!
Also remember that taking the time to clean up any existing connection with a Dremel or wire wheel on a drill will greatly help as well. You can pick up small packs of dielectric grease at any auto parts store in the small foil packs for around $1.00 instead of buying an $8.00 tube you'll likely end up wasting or giving away.
'92 Legacy Sport - Daily Driver & SCCA AutoX (Class: SM)
"When in doubt, flat out!" Colin McRae 1968-2007
"When in doubt, flat out!" Colin McRae 1968-2007
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Re: Grounding Mod FTW! (Inexpensively too)
Figured I should share my experience. Ever since I got my swap completed (just put ~1800 miles on it) I have been battling against hesitation under WOT, and running super rich all the time to the point where the exhaust was spitting black soot everywhere and I'm sure fouling my cat. I didn't have time to go to the store tonight to get ring terminals and wire, so I decided to go the basic route and just clean up my existing grounds. Used a wire wheel on my dremel, and a file to scrape off paint under each contact point. Went through and scraped the paint off all the contacts, and then thoroughly cleaned every bolt, washer, and contact point with the wire wheel. Also cleaned the posts and fittings on the battery. I can report that as of tonight, my hesitation issue has completely disappeared. Also it seems to be running much better AFRs, as it is no longer blowing plumes of smoke at WOT. I am definitely going to add the extra ground connections, but I'm in disbelief at the night and day difference in performance just from cleaning/repairing the stock connections.
In between Subies
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Re: Grounding Mod FTW! (Inexpensively too)
This exact thing happened after my 22T swap. Only it was bad enough that it would hardly move under its own power. Turned out that the ground on the manifold was loose.tsbpenguin wrote:Figured I should share my experience. Ever since I got my swap completed (just put ~1800 miles on it) I have been battling against hesitation under WOT, and running super rich all the time to the point where the exhaust was spitting black soot everywhere and I'm sure fouling my cat. I didn't have time to go to the store tonight to get ring terminals and wire, so I decided to go the basic route and just clean up my existing grounds. Used a wire wheel on my dremel, and a file to scrape off paint under each contact point. Went through and scraped the paint off all the contacts, and then thoroughly cleaned every bolt, washer, and contact point with the wire wheel. Also cleaned the posts and fittings on the battery. I can report that as of tonight, my hesitation issue has completely disappeared. Also it seems to be running much better AFRs, as it is no longer blowing plumes of smoke at WOT. I am definitely going to add the extra ground connections, but I'm in disbelief at the night and day difference in performance just from cleaning/repairing the stock connections.
Love that batt term gauge, Lego.
93 legacy wagon L, 22T swapped (TW imitator) now with five forward speeds. (Gone, but never forgotten)
johndrivesabox wrote: Rally, my kyboard is brok, his has nohing o do wih h liquor.
Originalcyn wrote:Apparently everyone hates Gabe.
Re: Grounding Mod FTW! (Inexpensively too)
Thanks. That battery terminal has been very handy. It times out and shuts off so it's not parasitic to the battery.
Here's a product link:
http://www.halfpricecaraudio.com/Tsunam ... BT10MP.htm
Here's a product link:
http://www.halfpricecaraudio.com/Tsunam ... BT10MP.htm
'92 Legacy Sport - Daily Driver & SCCA AutoX (Class: SM)
"When in doubt, flat out!" Colin McRae 1968-2007
"When in doubt, flat out!" Colin McRae 1968-2007
Re: Grounding Mod FTW! (Inexpensively too)
Are the wires that go under the coil pack from the battery? - or +?.
92 SS winestone red. td04 - FMIC. RWD 5 spd swap/LSD.dead...
94 LEGACY GT RAISED ROOF WAGON, fozzy lift hydro clutch/91SS 5speed/VLSD..#5.NEW FuLL DRiFT SLuT 93SS winestone,RS 5speed RWD. Welded rear, td04, fmic, 17x9 +20
94 LEGACY GT RAISED ROOF WAGON, fozzy lift hydro clutch/91SS 5speed/VLSD..#5.NEW FuLL DRiFT SLuT 93SS winestone,RS 5speed RWD. Welded rear, td04, fmic, 17x9 +20
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Re: Grounding Mod FTW! (Inexpensively too)
-I like this. I too have added extra grounds to my car, but in different locations.
-Joe
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-I'd rather loose by a mile because I built my own car, than win by an inch cause someone else built it for me. Your car, is your story, so don't let someone else write the book. ~Moog
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Re: Grounding Mod FTW! (Inexpensively too)
They're ground wires. To the negative terminal.dillonr92 wrote:Are the wires that go under the coil pack from the battery? - or +?.
93 legacy wagon L, 22T swapped (TW imitator) now with five forward speeds. (Gone, but never forgotten)
johndrivesabox wrote: Rally, my kyboard is brok, his has nohing o do wih h liquor.
Originalcyn wrote:Apparently everyone hates Gabe.
Re: Grounding Mod FTW! (Inexpensively too)
If you ran positive voltage wires to the engine block, you'd cause a dead short to the battery and the results would NOT be pretty at all!
'92 Legacy Sport - Daily Driver & SCCA AutoX (Class: SM)
"When in doubt, flat out!" Colin McRae 1968-2007
"When in doubt, flat out!" Colin McRae 1968-2007
Re: Grounding Mod FTW! (Inexpensively too)
Where on the back of the manifold?Legacy777 wrote:Nice write-up!
Another place that commonly gets missed is the grounding point on the back of the intake manifold. ALL the ECU/TCU grounds go to that spot. I ran an additional wire from that spot directly to the battery to eliminate any difference in grounding potential between the engine and chassis/battery.
1996 Subaru Legacy L
1993 Subaru Legacy SS
1992 Subaru Legacy L
1990 Subaru Legacy L
1993 Subaru Legacy SS
1992 Subaru Legacy L
1990 Subaru Legacy L
Re: Grounding Mod FTW! (Inexpensively too)
It's on the back of the #4 intake runner at the very bottom where the intake manifold bolts to the head.
Josh
surrealmirage.com/subaru
1990 Legacy (AWD, 6MT, & EJ22T Swap)
2020 Outback Limted XT
If you need to get a hold of me please email me rather then pm
surrealmirage.com/subaru
1990 Legacy (AWD, 6MT, & EJ22T Swap)
2020 Outback Limted XT
If you need to get a hold of me please email me rather then pm
Re: Grounding Mod FTW! (Inexpensively too)
Legacy777 wrote:It's on the back of the #4 intake runner at the very bottom where the intake manifold bolts to the head.
Hmm I will have to go out and look. Don't recall that one.
1996 Subaru Legacy L
1993 Subaru Legacy SS
1992 Subaru Legacy L
1990 Subaru Legacy L
1993 Subaru Legacy SS
1992 Subaru Legacy L
1990 Subaru Legacy L
Re: Grounding Mod FTW! (Inexpensively too)
I have mixed feelings about using aluminum crimp on terminals. A simple mod is using nickel plated steel or copper terminals and re-doing the connection with soldering on both-ends of connection. Sand down the contact surface as already mentioned.