When removing struts...

LaureltheQueen · Post by **LaureltheQueen** » Tue Dec 30, 2003 8:34 am

what bolts, nuts, and washers will need to be replaced, and how many?

I've never had my strut towers out.

stant093 · Post by **stant093** » Tue Dec 30, 2003 4:43 pm

3 on top (going to need a deep well socket) little nuts, and 2 big nuts and bolts on the bottom, also the brake line clip, best to use a nice set of needle nose pliers and pry those out first then disconnect the brake line and feed it through the hole. i dont think you would need to replace them [nuts, bolts and clips] but if you got some nice struts going in it wouldnt hurt, its pretty easy removing them, but getting them back in can sometimes be a chore, i used the tire iron for gettign the holes on the bottom lined up. just make sure you get a 4 wheel alignment or youll chew up tires

after removing countless struts i think it takes me about 20minutes per strut, in and out.
hope that helps a little

sam

vrg3 · Post by **vrg3** » Tue Dec 30, 2003 5:38 pm

I think she was asking about which ones need to be replaced with new parts...

You need to replace the locknut (a regular nut with a nylon center piece) that holds the strut to the strut top. That locknut should come with your struts, since some aftermarket struts have different threading on them than stock. One per strut.

The threads on the strut-to-hub bolts can take quite a beating when you remove the bolts, even if you support the hub with a jack, so if you can afford it you might want to replace those. The 2 lower front bolts and all 4 rear bolts are all the same normal bolt, and the 2 upper front bolts are cam bolts.

The cam bolt also has a washer associated with it. I think it's a spring washer, so maybe it'd be good to replace that. One per front strut.

These are the part numbers for a WRX, but I think they're the same:

Non-cam bolt (total of 6 on car): 20540AA100
Cam bolt (total of 2 on car): 20540AA090
Cam bolt washer (total of 2 on car): 20560AA040
Nut (total of 8 on car): 20550AA010

Post by **Legacy777** » Tue Dec 30, 2003 8:27 pm

Only bolts I replaced was the top one that came with the strut. Everything else has been reused. I first did struts around 80-90k with reused parts and they have been fine. I've even had things out a couple times, and reused again. So I wouldn't sweat it.

LaureltheQueen · Post by **LaureltheQueen** » Tue Dec 30, 2003 11:58 pm

I've got over 200k on everything, I think replacing stuff with oem parts would probably be beneficial to keeping my car from falling apart

ciper · Post by **ciper** » Wed Dec 31, 2003 1:09 am

disconnect the brake line and feed it through the hole
Wrong
No reason to open the brake system, causing contamination of moisture and air. Plus you would have to replace the copper washers for the banjo bolt if you do.

Once the clip is removed take a hack saw/sawzall/dremel and cut a horzintal slit at the highest point lining up with the top of the hole. Then bend the newly created tab out of the way and slide the line out.

Do the same on the new struts. I have done this on over 20 legacy struts...

LaureltheQueen: 200k? I think you dont give your car enough credit. Im planning to install a 300HP+ engine in a 90 legacy wagon with 165k. Everything on it has been upgraded and the chassis is just fine.

mTk · Post by **mTk** » Wed Dec 31, 2003 1:37 am

ciper wrote:LaureltheQueen: 200k? I think you dont give your car enough credit. Im planning to install a 300HP+ engine in a 90 legacy wagon with 165k. Everything on it has been upgraded and the chassis is just fine.

Same here w/ my 172k sedan, don't have 300hp... yet. The suspension has been fully upgraded and is probably harder on the rest of the components than most other setups, i've had no problems and have been reusing bolts for awile.

MK

Post by **Legacy777** » Wed Dec 31, 2003 3:36 am

yup.....rinse & reuse

vrg3 · Post by **vrg3** » Wed Dec 31, 2003 5:36 am

Be aware that there is an advantage to not cutting the brake line mounting tabs on the struts.

If the clip that holds the brake line in place comes loose, the tab still contains the brake line so there's relatively little risk of it getting places it shouldn't. If you've cut a hole in the tab, there's increased risk that the brake line could get in the way of the wheel or somesuch and get cut or something. Still a very small risk, to be sure, but increased.

10mm copper washers are cheap (OEM Subaru part number 114130151 lists for 86 cents, but AutoZone has them for around half that) and it's always good to bleed your lines again anyway.

Or if you're cheap you can reuse them if you re-anneal the copper. Heat it up with a torch until it glows red and then let it cool (if you're using anything hotter than a propane torch be careful not to melt the copper).

Post by **Legacy777** » Wed Dec 31, 2003 8:02 am

you don't cut a hole, you simply make one cut, bend the tab back, take old line out, put new line back in, and then bend tab back. So it'll hold the line just fine, with clip or without.

mTk · Post by **mTk** » Wed Dec 31, 2003 8:09 am

Legacy777 wrote:you don't cut a hole, you simply make one cut, bend the tab back, take old line out, put new line back in, and then bend tab back. So it'll hold the line just fine, with clip or without.

^^ exactly what i did, works great.

MK

vrg3 · Post by **vrg3** » Wed Dec 31, 2003 8:20 am

Ah, okay, I see what you guys are saying. I'd still prefer not to cut though... you never know.

Grant · Post by **Grant** » Wed Dec 31, 2003 4:47 pm

We finally put all 4 new GR2s all around on my car. Went super quick courtesy of a Sawsall to cut with and my cordless impact wrench to remove all the strut to hub bolts and wheel lugs. That cordless wrench is awesome. Did all of it still on the original charge. It was tired by the last tire and we had to use the tire iron to tighten the lugs up. All in all I removed and put back on ten tires, outer nut on axle, and all the bolts for the struts. For $120 that's pretty impressive I think. Just got it aligned yesterday then spent four hours driving on dirt and snow covered roads in the Rockies.

vrg3 · Post by **vrg3** » Wed Dec 31, 2003 4:55 pm

You weren't using the impact wrench to tighten lugs, were you?! You really ought to tighten them by hand if you don't want to tighten them with a torque wrench to 58-72 ft-lbs. Overtorquing lugs can have bad consequences.

But that's really cool that it helped with the strut-to-hub bolts. Every time I've removed those bolts I used my 3' breaker bar and it wasn't too bad, but an impact wrench would have been quicker. Didja use it on the nuts while holding the bolt heads with another wrench?

I keep the same breaker bar as well as a torque wrench in my trunk, with deep-well 6-point 19mm sockets on each, for lugs.

Opie · Post by **Opie** » Wed Dec 31, 2003 8:04 pm

vrg3 wrote:Ah, okay, I see what you guys are saying. I'd still prefer not to cut though... you never know.

I'm with you vrg3! Never cut one on any of the installs I've done. Only adds another 5-10 minutes to the job and you get the benefit of freshly bled brakes. To each there own I suppose!

LaureltheQueen · Post by **LaureltheQueen** » Wed Dec 31, 2003 9:05 pm

i bled my brakes like, 6 months ago. I'm not really that worried about the condition of them.

Thank you all so much for the input.

I'll take lots of photos

entirelyturbo · Post by **entirelyturbo** » Wed Dec 31, 2003 9:43 pm

I will probably do the hack-job brake line clip when I put GR2's on this summer. I just drained my whole brake system and put some pricey synth brake fluid in. Don't really wanna do it again...

Yes overtightening lug nuts can be VERY bad, I don't think anyone on this board knows that more than ME!!!

LaureltheQueen · Post by **LaureltheQueen** » Thu Jan 01, 2004 2:17 am

dang. I went to subaru with that shopping list of bolts and what have you. Just over a hundred dollars for them. I settled for $30 for 4 bolts. holy jesus.

Post by **Legacy777** » Thu Jan 01, 2004 2:42 am

that's why I don't usually replace bolts

Grant · Post by **Grant** » Thu Jan 01, 2004 6:07 am

vrg3 wrote:You weren't using the impact wrench to tighten lugs, were you?! You really ought to tighten them by hand if you don't want to tighten them with a torque wrench to 58-72 ft-lbs. Overtorquing lugs can have bad consequences.

But that's really cool that it helped with the strut-to-hub bolts. Every time I've removed those bolts I used my 3' breaker bar and it wasn't too bad, but an impact wrench would have been quicker. Didja use it on the nuts while holding the bolt heads with another wrench?

I keep the same breaker bar as well as a torque wrench in my trunk, with deep-well 6-point 19mm sockets on each, for lugs.

I have been using it to tighten the lug nuts. I don't think it torques much more than 70 ft-lbs on them but I'll check. We had to tighten all the bolts for the struts by hand to get them to the 98-119 setting after using the impact. I'll make sure and check what it tightens to next time. Usually I just broke the nut loose then impacted it and didn't have to hold the bolt heads. I did on a few, but not on all of them. I love new struts. My old ones have absolutely no rebound left in them. You compress them and they stay compressed. I was in dire need.

LaureltheQueen · Post by **LaureltheQueen** » Thu Jan 01, 2004 6:11 am

i'll get video of me jumping on my back bumper prior to lowering the partywagon. my springs and shocks are way blown. have been since i've had the car in my personal posession. it's good times.

greg donovan · Post by **greg donovan** » Thu Jan 01, 2004 7:17 am

since i am under the car and checking components at least every 2 weeks i just put two zip ties on each of my lines and replace them periodically and have had no trouble and none of the ties showed any wear but i replaced them anyway. i have gr2 on my sedan and agx on my wagon. we reused all the hardware.

greg

ciper · Post by **ciper** » Fri Jan 02, 2004 12:28 am

Speaking of struts, I have a complete set of rear GR-2 with spring/strut (assembled!) top for sale with only 6k or so miles. Check the parts forum.

Opie: Freshly bled brakes with contamination and still could have air. You could cut the mounts and still bleed the brakes then you would have freshly bled brakes as well.

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When removing struts...

When removing struts...