Xise's 1993 Legacy Turbo

[Legacy777]

I checked amperage in a few places, using an inductive clamp I checked each wire coming from the voltage regulator, I checked the + battery supply cable and the fusible link itself. Funny thing is I changed the fusible link and it was fine 14.1V......then it later on I started it up 17.2-18.1v !?!?!!?

Even stranger sometimes it will be at 11.8-12.1V and then it will go up to normal 13.8-15 or so and it kind of will stay there mostly and go above or below normal whenever it feels like it. Very strange if you ask me, sound like the voltage regulator in this new alternator has no idea what to do....or I have some bad wiring somewhere along the line, probably the plug from the voltage reg to the power distribution box.

either way this random electrical issue came out of nowhere, sounds almost like a kinked wire that starts off 12.1V until the wire gets warm, then it evens out....not sure else what could cause this does anyone ohm specs for each wire coming off the alt? Somethings is intermittently wrong and here and it doesn't seem to be related to driving conditions or load on the battery, it makes no difference if it is driving, at a red light or in park it does whatever it pleases. It will however, go to normal if it is 17V+ if I switch the headlights on, it drops right down.

I just hop I can straighten this out before WBM.

I would agree....it kind of sounds like a voltage regulator issue.

[xise]

not sure why though, must be something causing it to go bad. My previous alternator was doing the same thing, well almost. This one "behaves" most of the time, just will randomly undercharge or overcharge based on seemingly nothing....what controls the field coil in the alternator? The ECU? I guess I could try the other ECU I have if it could be a bad sensing circuit or something.

I am trying to understand what triggers the battery light to come on the dash, it seems to come on at anything under 12V and anything over 15V, but what is sensing this or controlling the demand for charge, the wiring diagram shows just the wiring to the battery the alt and the power distribution box.

[Legacy777]

The alternator's voltage regulator is self contained within the alternator. There is no external control. The battery light is tied into the alternator and will come on if it detects a grounded circuit in the alternator. Based on what you're saying, I'd more than likely put my money on the alternator.

[xise]

I went to pepboys for convenience, they had one in stock. The old one couldn't charge enough and this new one is lazy sometimes and then seemingly,whenever it feels like it, makes up for being lazy and charges extra hard.....very weird stuff. Not sure why this stuff always happens to me...lol. Oh well I am going to return it and get a Bosch alternator, they never give me any trouble.

[xise]

Well since I am going to have to order a new alternator and have some down time waiting I was thinking of doing the intercooler now as well as relocate the coolant resovoir and make an intake.



I know I can't use this tmic with the 22T intake manifold, I am going to be going DOHC soon. I have access to some EJ25D heads/intake so I am going to use those and hopefully have enough room to crap the sti intercooler in there.

I also just started to tear down the turbo to replace the compressor wheel. I still need to find a place locally to balance the shaft.

After that I am going to grab the yellow topfeeds and the fuel rails. I will just need a downpipe and a Robtuned ECU and i'll be golden That and I need my tank to fill lol Might need a better fuel pump but that can wait.

[Legacy777]

Do you mean yellow side feeds?

[free5ty1e]

Just fyi, if youve never heard that blowoff valve before, be prepared to remove the whistle piece from the end once it starts to annoy you lol

It sounds so much better sans-whistle. ...Which is just that little silver plastic circle on the end with the 3 arms meeting in the center.

Also yes did you mean yellow-top side feed sti injectors?

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[xise]

Right side feed my mistake, the yellow ones damnit! lol I actually forgot to put the plastic chrome 3 prong thing in the first time and had to take the cover off, i'll have to try it both ways. I am missing 2 of the tiny allen bolts though. Have to hind down replacements I guess or the seal won't be 100%

[xise]

Still haven't gotten around to fixing my fuel filling issue, although I was able to get a length of garden hose all the way inside the tank itself, so I am wondering if the kinked nappa fuel hose is really the problem or not....I managed to connect every hose on the filler to the tank, I am wondering if I managed to mix up the smaller lines causing no vapor return and slowing fuel delivery....I really want to avoid having to drop everything again so I am considering everything and anything.

Does anyone have a flow diagram for 02 WRX/STi tanks and one of the Legacy SS tank?? I want to compare and contrast, I went based on position of the lines which may have been wrong....

[xise]

Got a few things done today, wired the Wideband guage and the ECBS. That will all be fully done after I reassembly the dashboard, still gotta mount the ECBS control unit somwhere, probably under the radio in place of the CD holder.

The wideband is so bright I needed to get a shot of just the OBX boost gauge....not super visible but it gets the job done.

That Blue LCD screen is not staying there, it is a clock (my legacy didn't have one) barometer, temperature and volt meter. Works pretty damn well, just need to find a good place to stick it.

[xise]

Thanks man, I try to do things as professionally as possible with what I have. I heat shrink all the wire systems and color code my own wiring so at least I know what's what.

Got some more things done, wired in my ECBS and set a low boost setting of 8 and a high of 15 psi. It also has settings for "gain" to control how fast the wastegate opens.

It also has a function for a turbo timer "not needed for a journal bearing turbo" and for something that is triggered during a setable condition, like for an intercooler spray at full boost or for NO2 or whatever...since I don't have sprayer nozzles yet I left it out for now...once I am able to fit the big ass STi TMIC i'll rig that up and also install a manual sprayer button...for now just need to get everything working properly.

Here is the ECBS with it's various knobs and such, had to cut and cobble this center console back together.

Just need to wire this guy in, 2 wires left and this will be working...having trouble trying to find a place to mount it. Going to use the factory vacuum lines for now. Once I get the intercooler straight all new vac lines all around.

Mocking up the piece that will eliminate the restrictive "snorkus", the mighty COFFEE CAN MOD!!! Because it literally is a coffee can I used to bring to work until the rubber foot broke off the bottom...now it shall live on in the form of a glorious turbo inlet pipe

Also I don't think that the boost control solenoid was to blame now.

There must be a sensor that checks for vac or something because it was at the correct resistance, but the vacuum line to the Watergate actuator was off so it was never getting vacuum and never opening lol.

Next on the list would be the FCD, anyone have anything simple? I really don't want to bother with something super involved

[cj91legss]

You can order the TurboXS unit or the HKS unit. I think both have been used by fellow members on the board with good success.

[xise]

Yeah they are a bit price but look cool. I did see one that was made by maybe a member here selling for $55 and was a small circuit board with 2 leds to say when it had power and when it was active...mounted inside a radioshack AA battery holder. But I like the looks of the HKS brand fcd and it fits the theme of the other HKS stuff I have and plan to order in the future. Plus HKS matches the purple them my wife requested lol.

I tried to mock up each intercooler to see what kind of modifications they would require, the STi one just is way too big and would need to cut up that bulge just above the pitch mount...which I am assuming is where the heater core is and cutting into that would be cutting into the heater core...the 07 WRX one fits in there no problem, I could probably even get my AC line back there, but the silicone piece I have gets a little squeezed and I have trouble envisioning how this will work properly...

correct me if I am wrong but the VF11 has a 2" inlet and a 1.75" outlet right? the y pipe I bought from ebay is a bit wonky on fitment even though it said it was for 02-07, the 2 pieces that are bridged by a straight silicone piece do not line up perfectly and is slightly short...I am probably going to buy a flexible hump hose for that and a 90* elbow that tapers from 2" to 1.75" I have read a million of the intercooling threads and EVERYONE does it differently, there is no 1.2.3. solution for this and even then it rarely looks professional or like it is supposed to be there. Seems like the best/easiest way is to get a V1/2 STi slanty tmic and use that....but now I have 2 intercoolers and a slew of silicone parts and pipes, most of which is unuseable. I really wanted to use that V8 tmic, I am wondering even with the WRX heads/manifold if it would fit then....has anyone ever gotten one to work at all? Even with cutting banging or making sacrifices to some dark god? Anyone?

[xise]

Actually got some stuff done today! Got my TMIC pipe made and it fits. Not sure how well it will hold boost yet. I made it from part of the charge pipe and part of the stock plastic 07 wrx y pipe, Cut the charge pipe and tossed aside the BPV, cut the elbow off the 07 oem y pipe and fitted them together and put that into the silicone ebay y pipe like so.

Not the greatest thing but it should do, not permanent though, one I go DOHC ill use a VF39 and cram the biggest intercooler possible in there

I also took all the pressure solenoids off that bracket, cleaned the metal parts up and repainted them.


Reinstalled with new hardware


I also had to clock the coolant line on the turbo the opposite direction.


I had to cut up the "F" tube for the PCV system to fit around the intercooler pipes which was a huge pain in the ass, that no one mentions...guess it is b/c it is a VF11 an nobody ever uses that little guy...

[Legacy777]

Everyone tends to modify the PCV system hoses a little differently, so it's one of those things that people tend to lump into "PCV hose modification". What that entails really depends on how that person decides to route everything.

[xise]

Yeah I will probably will end up re routing it, but it works for now so it's fine. Finally finished everything except the AOS I was going to use. Everything is finished except I could no longer fit the oem airbox so I am going to grab a MAF adapter and a really short filter like the HKS one and use that. Wall off the area around it so it doesn't draw in Hot air.

Everything seems to work fine, I only went around the block and it held around 8 psi no problem, which is what the low set to. Once I get the filter I will take it out for a nice ride and see what I can do, the BOV seems to work fine, I have the BPV port blocked with an o2 bung bolt and that seems to work fine, getting 20inHg at idle so all seems well for now.

Wasn't too bad to relocate everything, it is a very tight fit but it looks good and hopefully will hold until I get some better hoses...needless to say I close the hood very carefully now.

[xise]

Well I got my fuel issue all figured out, turns out the valve on the center of the WRX tank only allowed air in not out so I had to drill a hole in it like so....

I also got my HKS filter in the mail with my MAF adapter and made myself an intake....eventually I am going to make an airbox so it separates the hot engine bay air from the cold intake air.




I was able to hit pretty decent pressures with the crappy turbo outlet I made, once I get a actual silicone piece it will surely build boost better.

This is what the head unit says for peak boost

[xise]

Well I have fixed my gas tank filling issue, it was as simple as drilling a hole in the valve so that air could flow in both directions....had to drop the xmember and the tank a bit to access the valve.

I also repinned the connector so that it completed the fuel sender circuit, was pretty simple. I could do a comprehensive write up for how to use an 02+ WRX/STi fuel tank and pump if anyone is interested. I am just happy that now I have a working gas gauge and can actually FILL my tank....I am less happy that I am getting horrendously bad gas mileage....

I was also wondering if anyone else had an issue of a low surging idle that will sometimes stall....It seems to only be really bad in Drive so maybe it is just an automatic issue? Really not sure because the vacuum is a steady 21inHg and there are no other driveability issues, only happens at stop lights.

[cj91legss]

It may be your blow off valve

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[CAV3MAN227]

Really not sure because the vacuum is a steady 21inHg and there are no other driveability issues, only happens at stop lights.

-Curious, at what elevation are you at?

-Joe

[xise]

It may be your blow off valve

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I was actually thinking that......

Really not sure because the vacuum is a steady 21inHg and there are no other driveability issues, only happens at stop lights.

-Curious, at what elevation are you at?

-Joe

I am at sea level , But did just come back from the White Mountains....maybe it really toasted my map sensor or is holding the wastegate open at idle...my factory BCS was already giving me a code. How sensitive are those sensors when changing elevations?

[xise]

So my Tein HAs are completely blown, it has been confirmed, adjusted them every way possible and no dice. Still waiting to hear back from the place I bought them from to get a refund. In the mean time I think the only reason why my V7s were clunking is because there is a small amount of space in between the mounts and the tophats that makes them clank together.

Has anyone here gotten Ver 7 struts to work with the 94 SS upper mounts? Can I use something like washers or anything like that? I just want to do this once and be done with it, I'd actually rather be on these struts than coilovers anyway.

[xise]

Also the blown coilovers were do blown it caused the driver's side rear endlink to break.....anyone know what other subaru uses the same rear links as a Ver 3/4 with the pink lateral links? The kind that look like this
__
...|
...|__

^Thems the ones

[xise]

I guess it must be a mystery lol, does anyone know how to get version 3 sti fitment endlinks if there is no us equivalent?

[cj91legss]

I feel like thats turbo legacy or legacy n/athat did not have the c shaped endlinks.

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