92 SS - Rob Tune Dyno Results.

[CFK]

OK, so I may have jumped the gun on the dyno cause there is a problem with the car and I need to FIO. So lets get it straight that this shouldn't be typical results for Rob Tune, I just traded some labour and have access to the dyno anytime.

Here's the Setup :

Modifications:

Engine

- EJ22T (240 000 Kms)
- RobTune ECU
- TD05-16G (Used)
- JDM Greytop 440cc's (Cleaned & Flowed)
- Delta 220 Cams (Torque)
- MSD Coilpack
- Aurora 8mm Wires
- Ceramic Coated Exhaust
- 07 WRX TMIC W/ Disected Perrin Y-Pipe
- De-Snorkeled, K&N, Turbo Silencer Delete
- Winton Motors BOV Adapter
- 2 Catch Cans
- 3" TBE. Megan DP, Custom No-Cat Mid & Sheep Dog Muffler
- Hallman Pro MBC
- Innovate LC-1 WB Controller
- Walbro 255 Fuel Pump
- Forge 007 Diverter Valve





So as you can see I run rich until 4600 RPM then my AFR shoots up to 22.

When im driving on the hwy and i go WOT, my AFR gauge states that im at 10.2 steady at 16 PSI, it holds for a few seconds then I start to get some studdering. Once in a while if I punch it from a rolling start it will just drop the power violently.

So Im not really sure where to start looking for the problem I had the injectors cleaned and flowed, it's a new fuel pump, new MSD Coilpack, new wires, spark plugs

Also, I need to run out and get the cable to upload the Innovate LC-1 data to compare the AFR's

Any suggestions

[wtdash]

HI,
What's your spark plug brand/PN and gap?
Td

[CFK]

I believe they are Denso Iridium, if not NGK Iridium. I wonder if I did gap them correctly, I will check that tonight. Should they be the gapped to the factory spec I presume or even smaller ?

[wtdash]

But what's the part number/heat range? I'd run the stock BKR6E-11.

I gap to .030.

Here's what Rob told me awhile back:

I am not familiar with the the ej22t coil pack so I am not sure what it can handle. I would suggest starting at 0.032" and if you get misfires under boost, drop it down until it goes away. If it requires smaller than 0.028" then I would consider that a problem. I have had best luck with good ol' standard NGK copper plugs.

[rob]

If it were me, I would start with a smoke or pressure test to see if you have any air leaks (probably before the turbo). I would also check if the vacuum line to the FPR is not leaking under boost.

-Rob

[CFK]

Perfect, I will check all that then. There's so many god damn hoses on these factory turbo cars their is so many chances to leak. Good call, thanks so much. I'll be sure to update the problem and re-dyno when resolved

[Legacy777]

If you have the ability to read the ECU's OBD1 signals from the scan tool, that may also give you some additional troubleshooting.

[CFK]

Alright, so first of all. Made the Rookie mistake of not gapping the plugs ! They were at 0.39"-0.42

It's been about 900 miles of driving on this set-up.

I will pressure test tomorrow, but found one loose connection off the head to catch can. Both Catch cans were filled with Nastyness, tons of moisture mixed in the oil. Checked tons of hoses just to make sure there were clamps on em.

There is a brand new silicone hose with zap-straps off the top of the FPR, tight.

I have an ODB ll reader, not an OBD l though. I didn't think they were worth buying since it had the U & D-Check modes

[ScottyS]

So, you don't think that turbo at 16+PSI is too much for the 440cc injectors?

[CFK]

No, I just think I have another problem. Doesn't studder under full boost now, I turned it down to 14 since and have only driven it once.

picked up a PVC cap and air line fitting, so im gonna try to pressure test and soap & bubble everything hopefully tomorrow. Just got back from Cuba and been lazy/sick ever since.

Also just picked up my Innovate Motorsports cable for the LC-1 WB, so after the pressure test I will take it for a pull and see what the results are.

[Alphius]

So, you don't think that turbo at 16+PSI is too much for the 440cc injectors?

I had the same setup minus Delta cams and with RevTronix instead of Robtune and my 440s didn't run out of headroom until nearly 20psi.

[CFK]

Sorted out all my problems finally. Many Vacuum leaks throughout, cheap Ebay catch cans and some of my Ghetto Fab

Also the car died on me cause the Brand new Walbro fuel pump sh!t the due to the fact the in-tank filter that came with it disintigrated and got sucked up inside it and seized the pump

Feels AMAZING now. pulls hard and holds boost at 16 with no stuttering whatsoever Unless I take a right corner hard, then the it just skips a few beats.

Think im gonna fill the tank with that fuel cell foam to prevent it from sloshing around.

Thanks for the help

[rob]

Feels AMAZING now. pulls hard and holds boost at 16 with no stuttering whatsoever Unless I take a right corner hard, then the it just skips a few beats.

Think im gonna fill the tank with that fuel cell foam to prevent it from sloshing around.

Take a read through this thread.
http://www.rs25.com/forums/f128/t49108- ... -help.html

[ScottyS]

I also did the RC plane tank mod when I installed the fuel pump. It has worked perfectly for like 5 years.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

[CFK]

Perfect, I will do that right away . Car feels so amazing now besides that. Will post new dyno results as soon as I. Get it back on there after Christmas

Thanks for the help

[CFK]

Hey Scotty did you just do the RC Plane tank and run the return line into it, or did you got the step above that and install a second in-tank pump ?

I'm just so sick of working on it and to lazy to get a second pump, run wires, relay and fuse , etc.

STI's just have that surge box, that seems like it would do the trick unless your doing a right handed oval circuit. Seems retarded , what did they build these cars for NASCAR

[ScottyS]

I just did the RC tank around the Walbro assembly, no second pump or anything. Honestly I don't remember the specifics of the tank model I used, etc., but it was basically following directions that I found on one of the major forums (perhaps even this one). The directions I followed did not mention a second pump as I recall.

The whole point is to create a baffled system. Going off memory, I want to say that small (i.e. 1/4" or less) holes were drilled in the tank bottom/sides, and larger (i.e. 3/4" -ish holes) were drilled in the tank sides. Not too many, like 2-3 small and 4 large (above the Walbro pickup). But evaluate your directions and modify appropriately. I have not had a hiccup since related to fuel feed using 440's.

I wish I had taken photos of my install, but did not. This was back in 2008.

[robertpaige]

Hoping to see higher numbers on the next dyno run... you should be totally capable of breaking 210AWHP!

[CFK]

Me to ! Ordered the 32oz fuel tank, hopefully here friday, install. Might be able to Dyno this weekend ! But we'll see ..............
Just got a GoPro to, so hoping to get some footage, figure out how to edit, convert, post it, etc

[CFK]

Got some better #'s , Regardless. The Car feels Awesome

94 Octane.







204 AWHP. 240 AWTQ.

Stock STI is supposedly : 256 AWHP. 264 AWTQ. On a DynaPack.

Keep in mind that this is a hub dyno, which apparently reads 8-10% higher than a DynoJet or mustang.

Very happy with that considering there all used stock components, minus the RobTune of coarse

[wtdash]

HI,
Looks good.

What's the Dynapack do for a stock STi?

Please post the #'s in your thread in case your pics go missing (I see this all the time on NASIOC).

Have fun!
TD

[robertpaige]

Nice! That's what I like to see! Still think you could do even better. But it's lookin good

[MConte05]

Yikes, no TD05-16G for my rally car then.

Does it really take that long to spool up? Wow.

[Alphius]

My TD05 was at a full 18psi by 3000 RPM in 4th gear, I don't know why his spools slower.

[Legacy777]

Yeah, my TD05-16G spools very quickly. I'd have to double check and see when it reachs full boost at what gear, etc.