Burnt my cluster?!

[James614]

Okay, here's something odd. At some point in the early days of my ej20g swap, I managed to fry one of the traces behind my cluster. It happened after I got the new engine/trans in, but before I touched the wiring at all. Still had the original ecu at the time too. I can't think of any reason it would have happened. Any thoughts? All the bulbs look good though he CEL won't come on now.

Please tell me this isn't indicative of a short somewhere else in the car. No fuses blew. Would a fried cluster prevent the car from starting? I've also gotta find out why my fuel pump mysteriously doesn't prime when I turn my key now also... fun times.

You can see it right above the speedometer.

[Legacy777]

That burnt section appears to be the ground, and is isolated to just the speedo. It should not be causing your problems.

From what you described it sounds like there's something up with your ECU. It may not be getting powered properly which would account for the CEL and fuel pump.

[James614]

I don't see how the ecu wouldn't get powered properly, I didn't touch its power supply. I have 3, the original 22t, a rob tune, and a stock 20g and all do the same thing.

I'll have to open my firewall harness and check for damage, that's the only place I could see an issue like that arising from. Maybe it got pinched during the swap, there is a wrinkle in the conduit.

Sigh...

Thanks for the help, I'm beginning to think you are a robotic 1st Gen legacy encyclopedia

[Legacy777]

Have you checked for power at the connectors at the ECU to make sure it's getting power?

[James614]

No, up until you mentioned it I had zero suspicion of an ECU-related issue. But it does make a lot of sense. I'm actually kind of excited to see what I find when I start troubleshooting it tomorrow.

[James614]

Okay, so going off of Vikash's pin out, I'm getting like 0.06 V on pins B48.2 and 13 (power supply), and 11.8V on pin 15 (backup power supply).

The control system ground at B48.22 is at 0.001 ohms, while the sensor ground at B48.21 is at 0.211 ohms with the ignition off, and open when its on run. Not sure if that should happen...

I'm not really sure what the values should be and when, so I'm not sure what to make of it.

I also checked that section of harness that looks like it may have been pinched, nothing to see there.

[Legacy777]

Turn the ignition to the ON position and see if you are getting around 12v at pins B48.2 & 13.

[James614]

That was at the ON position. After I was done I went and double-checked that it was on and not ACC and tested again with identical results.

[Legacy777]

Ok, then you're not getting power to the ECU. Check your slow blow fuses in the engine bay. SBF-2 is what feeds the ignition relay and the ECU. Here is the power supply routing. If it's not a simple SBF, then you'll need to do some more digging to see if it's a relay or something else.

http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/fil ... uting1.jpg
http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/fil ... uting2.jpg

[James614]

Thanks. I did a visual check of them already, Ill actually check continuity on them. I'm happy to just have some idea now of why it wouldn't fire... she's been completely brain dead this whole time

[Legacy777]

Yeah, just a tip for anyone else; if the CEL doesn't come on with the key in the ON position, the ECU likely isn't working

[James614]

Okay, so SBF-2 had continuity. But it looked a little tarnished, so I threw a spare in there. Right away my cluster lamps were brighter... turned it to ON... the CEL came on, and my fuel pump primed!

And the best part... went to crank it... after about 10 second she fired right up!!! Hellzya! I can't thank you enough Josh! I don't know how many weekends of blind shots in the dark you've saved me!

[Legacy777]

You're welcome!