Dried/cracked PCV repair
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Dried/cracked PCV repair
94 Legacy Wagon, Turbo AWD, 197k mi.
OH what fun I'm having with dried out, hard, cracked PCV/vacuum system!
This adventure started with the newly acquired vehicle not passing emissions (high carbon monoxide, 400 of 200 allowable.)
O2 sensor was looking good in closed loop, but a mechanic recommended replacing it 'because it's lazy'. They recommended replacing the PCV valve due to smoking oil leak in the engine bay. Finally they wanted to replace both cats (saying one in the exhaust manifold under the engine, and second behind the turbo).
So I started replacing the PCV valve, the 'rubber' hose was cracked and broke. So I tried to get it off of the 'F pipe', which also broke. Basically everything rubber is breaking as I chase it down. I had to take the turbo inlet elbow off to access other piping, and it is cracked too!
So I'm getting bulk 1/2", 5/8", 3/4" rubber piping together from the local auto parts. I'm going to need to track down some Y adapters for those sizes. I'll also need to either replace the turbo inlet (I see these are available in Canada?), or cobble something custom with a silicone elbow and the 'coffee cup' mod.
So first let my story be a warning to others - lol.
Second, I'd love some advice on how people have been able to access the vertical vacuum port (PCV port?), on the top of the rear passenger side of the engine, beside the turbo. Images attached below.
Thanks in advance!
P.S. the Turbo to Throttle hose is hard as a rock - I cannot pull it off without damaging it.
OH what fun I'm having with dried out, hard, cracked PCV/vacuum system!
This adventure started with the newly acquired vehicle not passing emissions (high carbon monoxide, 400 of 200 allowable.)
O2 sensor was looking good in closed loop, but a mechanic recommended replacing it 'because it's lazy'. They recommended replacing the PCV valve due to smoking oil leak in the engine bay. Finally they wanted to replace both cats (saying one in the exhaust manifold under the engine, and second behind the turbo).
So I started replacing the PCV valve, the 'rubber' hose was cracked and broke. So I tried to get it off of the 'F pipe', which also broke. Basically everything rubber is breaking as I chase it down. I had to take the turbo inlet elbow off to access other piping, and it is cracked too!
So I'm getting bulk 1/2", 5/8", 3/4" rubber piping together from the local auto parts. I'm going to need to track down some Y adapters for those sizes. I'll also need to either replace the turbo inlet (I see these are available in Canada?), or cobble something custom with a silicone elbow and the 'coffee cup' mod.
So first let my story be a warning to others - lol.
Second, I'd love some advice on how people have been able to access the vertical vacuum port (PCV port?), on the top of the rear passenger side of the engine, beside the turbo. Images attached below.
Thanks in advance!
P.S. the Turbo to Throttle hose is hard as a rock - I cannot pull it off without damaging it.
Re: Dried/cracked PCV repair
P.P.S. HUGE thanks to VRG3 for the vacuum hose image you made, and PCV system image scanned from the manual.
Re: Dried/cracked PCV repair
Welcome to the BBS!
Before you just go and replace the PCV hose with bulk rubber hose, I suggest reading this thread regarding using the proper emissions hose. Over time the radiator hose will swell and become soft.
As for getting that rear 3/4" hose off, long needle nose pliers to get the hose clamp off works best.
Before you just go and replace the PCV hose with bulk rubber hose, I suggest reading this thread regarding using the proper emissions hose. Over time the radiator hose will swell and become soft.
As for getting that rear 3/4" hose off, long needle nose pliers to get the hose clamp off works best.
Josh
surrealmirage.com/subaru
1990 Legacy (AWD, 6MT, & EJ22T Swap)
2020 Outback Limted XT
If you need to get a hold of me please email me rather then pm
surrealmirage.com/subaru
1990 Legacy (AWD, 6MT, & EJ22T Swap)
2020 Outback Limted XT
If you need to get a hold of me please email me rather then pm
Re: Dried/cracked PCV repair
^^^ THIS IS IMPORTANT, I've had to replace a lot of heater core hose that has been used for PCV on friends and customers cars due to leaks, and it doesn't take long to do so!
92 Legacy Turbo, 5sp MT, Early Large CC 20G heads, Ported custom clocked td04, Cobb catted DP, Injen SS 3" exhaust, Turbosmart MBC @ 10psi, Apexi 20g intake, custom FMIC, Fidanza 11lb flywheel, stock 05 WRX clutch
Re: Dried/cracked PCV repair
Thanks for the greetings
I got some 11" needle nose, and some long 'hose pliers' from harbor freight - the old hose is off!
Thanks for the tip on not using the heater hose - this job sucks and I only want to do it once! lol
I got some 11" needle nose, and some long 'hose pliers' from harbor freight - the old hose is off!
Thanks for the tip on not using the heater hose - this job sucks and I only want to do it once! lol
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Re: Dried/cracked PCV repair
If you haven't gotten everything off yet a good tool to have is a heat gun. Heating up the hoses before attempting to pull them off (charge pipe included) will make it less easier to crack or break the hose.
91 L-TW Wagon with a full Swap -RIP
92 SS Prefaced, GD dash swapped, 22T/205 Hybrid 20 psi - BEAST!
93 SS Bone Stock Gone!
94 TW Bone Stock Gone!
91 SS 4EAT Sold!
98 LGT 4EAT
98 LGT Wagon 4EAT
92 SS Prefaced, GD dash swapped, 22T/205 Hybrid 20 psi - BEAST!
93 SS Bone Stock Gone!
94 TW Bone Stock Gone!
91 SS 4EAT Sold!
98 LGT 4EAT
98 LGT Wagon 4EAT
Re: Dried/cracked PCV repair
im having to replace the hole system with oem stuff the guy who owned my wagon before me had a bunch of the stuff broken and cracked and used a wrx cross over pipe for part of the system....
Re: Dried/cracked PCV repair
The tip about using a heat gun should be in one of the stickies. I went through the "breaking every PCV component I touched" phase like 5 years ago. I had a heat gun too, but it just never occured to me.
93 Touring Wagon (EJ20G 5spd Swap) -- Finally back and running strong as ever!
05 Outback 2.5XT 5spd -- Now the wife can have her SUV and get in on the turbo Legacy goodness at the same time.
05 Outback 2.5XT 5spd -- Now the wife can have her SUV and get in on the turbo Legacy goodness at the same time.
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Re: Dried/cracked PCV repair
Yeah, heat gun helps so much.
Sent from my SGH-T889 using Tapatalk
Sent from my SGH-T889 using Tapatalk
91 L-TW Wagon with a full Swap -RIP
92 SS Prefaced, GD dash swapped, 22T/205 Hybrid 20 psi - BEAST!
93 SS Bone Stock Gone!
94 TW Bone Stock Gone!
91 SS 4EAT Sold!
98 LGT 4EAT
98 LGT Wagon 4EAT
92 SS Prefaced, GD dash swapped, 22T/205 Hybrid 20 psi - BEAST!
93 SS Bone Stock Gone!
94 TW Bone Stock Gone!
91 SS 4EAT Sold!
98 LGT 4EAT
98 LGT Wagon 4EAT
Re: Dried/cracked PCV repair
So, on what heat setting do you use the heat gun? How much do you heat up the hose? Hot enough to wear an insulated glove before attempting to pull the hose off?
'94 TW
Re: Dried/cracked PCV repair
All you're trying to do is heat the hose enough so it remains flexible. I would use the low heat setting, but will let others that have done it chime in.
Josh
surrealmirage.com/subaru
1990 Legacy (AWD, 6MT, & EJ22T Swap)
2020 Outback Limted XT
If you need to get a hold of me please email me rather then pm
surrealmirage.com/subaru
1990 Legacy (AWD, 6MT, & EJ22T Swap)
2020 Outback Limted XT
If you need to get a hold of me please email me rather then pm
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- Fifth Gear
- Posts: 6322
- Joined: Fri Jun 20, 2008 8:17 am
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Re: Dried/cracked PCV repair
I've gotten away with the high heat setting on some stuff that is really hard like plastic. But mostly I use the low setting like Josh mentioned.
91 L-TW Wagon with a full Swap -RIP
92 SS Prefaced, GD dash swapped, 22T/205 Hybrid 20 psi - BEAST!
93 SS Bone Stock Gone!
94 TW Bone Stock Gone!
91 SS 4EAT Sold!
98 LGT 4EAT
98 LGT Wagon 4EAT
92 SS Prefaced, GD dash swapped, 22T/205 Hybrid 20 psi - BEAST!
93 SS Bone Stock Gone!
94 TW Bone Stock Gone!
91 SS 4EAT Sold!
98 LGT 4EAT
98 LGT Wagon 4EAT
Re: Dried/cracked PCV repair
Thanks for the feedback. Now, another question: After the hoses are softened enough to get them off, do they remain soft or do they become hard (or harder) again? I'm asking because I'm going to have to be removing some of those hardened hoses in my engine bay and I'd like to plan for what to expect. Thanks!
'94 TW
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- Fifth Gear
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Re: Dried/cracked PCV repair
They will harden after they cool off. They wont be harder than before. When you go to put them back on, you will want to soften them with the heat gun again.
Sent from my SGH-T889 using Tapatalk
Sent from my SGH-T889 using Tapatalk
91 L-TW Wagon with a full Swap -RIP
92 SS Prefaced, GD dash swapped, 22T/205 Hybrid 20 psi - BEAST!
93 SS Bone Stock Gone!
94 TW Bone Stock Gone!
91 SS 4EAT Sold!
98 LGT 4EAT
98 LGT Wagon 4EAT
92 SS Prefaced, GD dash swapped, 22T/205 Hybrid 20 psi - BEAST!
93 SS Bone Stock Gone!
94 TW Bone Stock Gone!
91 SS 4EAT Sold!
98 LGT 4EAT
98 LGT Wagon 4EAT
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- Fifth Gear
- Posts: 6322
- Joined: Fri Jun 20, 2008 8:17 am
- Location: Lakewood, Wa 98439
- Contact:
Re: Dried/cracked PCV repair
Always happy to help!
Sent from my SGH-T889 using Tapatalk
Sent from my SGH-T889 using Tapatalk
91 L-TW Wagon with a full Swap -RIP
92 SS Prefaced, GD dash swapped, 22T/205 Hybrid 20 psi - BEAST!
93 SS Bone Stock Gone!
94 TW Bone Stock Gone!
91 SS 4EAT Sold!
98 LGT 4EAT
98 LGT Wagon 4EAT
92 SS Prefaced, GD dash swapped, 22T/205 Hybrid 20 psi - BEAST!
93 SS Bone Stock Gone!
94 TW Bone Stock Gone!
91 SS 4EAT Sold!
98 LGT 4EAT
98 LGT Wagon 4EAT
Re: Dried/cracked PCV repair
There's a hose labeled "fuel vapor use, not for fuel line". That's what I used.
Rotate it back and forth while wedging it on the direction of removal. I used a flat head screw driver as a wedge. You can use a pair of pliers to rotate it, but pinch away from fittings so you don't crush them in.
I add a couple drops of transmission fluid under the hose after "breaking it loose" by rotating if its really bad.
Rotate it back and forth while wedging it on the direction of removal. I used a flat head screw driver as a wedge. You can use a pair of pliers to rotate it, but pinch away from fittings so you don't crush them in.
I add a couple drops of transmission fluid under the hose after "breaking it loose" by rotating if its really bad.