Broken head bolt problem...

[cj91legss]

Trying to re-seal the motor in the 400 dollar 91 ss I bought. Broke a head bolt when I was removing the head bolts to do the head gaskets.

Called one machine shop about it and he said "you're pretty much fucked but you can bring it in and we can see if we can extract is."

This morning I filled the hole with some penetrating oil. Went to work. after work I bought a craftsman bolt extractor set and came home and tried to extract the bolt. It broke by hand with a 1/4" screw driver.

Am I fucked?

It's a good 22t block, I drove this car home with transmission problems.

this is supposed to be my daily driver/for sale car if the price is right and fund my 205 swap.

Shit....

[cj91legss]

Sorry for the language, im really upset right now....

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[ride_child]

ill sell you my motor.

[cj91legss]

I don't want to buy another motor if I have a motor that's good that just need to bolt removed.

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[cj91legss]

Needs a* stupid voice to text...

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[ride_child]

ok well, just know its there if ya need it for the time being. and youve helped me out a ton, i have no issues helping you out.

[lucas]

Keep at it man try heat and freeze off.

[91Beater]

It's hard to visualize the circumstance without a picture.
If you You should drill the bolt incrementally. Something about 1/2 the diameter, then next size, then next size.
If you use a small extractor, it will break.

[lucas]

can you post a picture?

[cj91legss]

I'll get one in a bit. I'm gonna look for better extractors later. I may see if I can get refunded for the craftsman set considering it broke on a 1/4" drive screw driver. That seems pretty pathetic to me.

[cj91legss]

[PhyrraM]

That needs to be drilled perfectly in the center and drilled out almost all the way to the threads. That will relieve the pressure and allow the threads to turn again. I can tell you from experience that working in a hole - with hand tools - is not the best way to approach this problem.

The safest way is to let a machine shop do it. They have the machines and fixtures to exactly center the drill (or more likely an end mill) and remove the material right up to the base of the threads, yet without removing anything from the block. It doesn't have to be a automotive machine shop, in fact a general machine shop ("job shop") will likely charge you less and do a better job - as long as they already have the proper tooling (most will).

[cj91legss]

I called a machine shop yesterday and explained to them what happened and they said i could bring it in and they can look at it. I have a Friend that works at a machine shop (non automotive) that is going to come by and take a look at it as well. If it cant be extracted right now, then I guess I'll have to slap an N/A block in it and go from there.

I'm just concerned about the valves and piston clearance. I'll have to do some research, I'm tired right now and have no motivation to look into it.

[91Beater]

You still have the broken bolt head? One thing you can do is to drill a hole down the center on a drill press. I'd start with 1/8 or 3/32 and use it to guide the drill bit.

Fit the drilled broken head, hold it in place with a socket and feed the bit through where the ratchet goes in to drill the pilot. Oil the bit liberally. Use sharp bits, high RPM and patience so you don't break the bit.

Practice on a scrap metal. Drill an 1/8 pilot, next size up and go up incrementally and very carefully so the bit don't grab and break.

Drill so you can use the biggest extractor possible.