Codes 17, 22, and 41

[Nibbib]

So my check engine light came on and I got the codes 17,22,41.

I called my local Subaru shop and they said most likely the 22 knock sensor can cause the 41 but, I'm really confused about the 17 which is 4th injector being faulty, and I did the whole clear the code thing with both green and black plugs, and I got the steady flash the check engine light does when the codes are cleared.

And this morning I was driving it and the light came back on and had the same three coeds

The shop said to start with a knock sensor before I really rest the ecu by battery or fuse I thought I would ask here also.

Any input would be great

[lucas]

change the knock sensor first, its easy and more then likely itll make the other codes go away. Start cheap man.

[Nibbib]

Well I felt around the plug and it was loose but the wiring is kinda janky and still idles high.. 1200-1500

[lucas]

did you replace it? or reset the codes again?

[Nibbib]

I looked at the wiring for the knock sensor and it was poorly repaired and I'm waiting for my buddy to hook me up by soldiering it back together and i need a new mail plug so it stays clipped in all the way

[Legacy777]

You can check the resistance of the injectors and see if the #4 injector resistance is different.

What sort of symptoms or issues are you experiencing?

[Nibbib]

I'm having, runs rich on deceleration and idles around 1200-1500 after I get on it

I'm going to a junkyard today after work to find a good knock sensor and plugs then get them sodered on and re set the ecu and see if that will fix it because before the cel would come on for 20 mins then turn off and then turn back on 10 mins later and i after I tried to fix it the cel is staying on now with the same three codes so I know that the knock sensor needs fixed then I'll look at the 4th injector

[Legacy777]

Sounds like a plan.

[Nibbib]

well got my male plug and wire and hopefully tomorrow I'll get it all fixed and then clear the ecu.

[Nibbib]

So here's an up date I got my plug all put in and at first cel was still on so I thought oh well new knock sensor but today the cel was off but didn't stay off it turns on 2 mins after driving so when I got home I checked the codes same three but two new ones so the 5 I have are

17,22,23,41,45 in order I cleared them and let the car sit for a little while came out to start it then 20 minutes later all five are back not really sure where to start I know the knock sensor is pretty cheap

So if some can point me in the right direction on where to start lol

And car does fine under boost and every thing

[Legacy777]

Have you tried the active diagnostic with just the green plugs? I'd start with that. Also, if you have a multi-meter you can check the resistance of all four injectors and see if the fourth injector's resistance values are different than the other three.

[Nibbib]

I haven't done the D-mode yet I will when I get home

But a little update cel will turn off and then back on now like it did before so I'm wondering if something is wrong with the ecu?

[Legacy777]

If the CEL turns on and off that's an indication the active code/problem is intermittant. Do the d-check mode and see what you get.

[Nibbib]

So the d-check came up with. 51 and I'm confused my car has been swapped with a 5speed so how do I go about figuring out which 51 it is

[Nibbib]

51 Neutral switch Abnormal signal entered from neutral
51 Inhibitor switch Abnormal signal entered from inhibitor switch

The tranny swap was done before me and I've owned the car for a little over a year and within the past two months I've replaced the whole vacuum line system and I did my fount mount and I also cleaned my iacv but when I pulled it off I did notice that the tan plastic peice on top looked like it had a hair-line crack...

[Legacy777]

Do you know if the neutral switch from the MT is hooked up properly?

Has the TCU been removed?

[Nibbib]

Not sure I've looked and sorta read the write up you have on doing the 5speed swap but the wiring under the dash just looks like a big cluster fuck.... I'm just confused on why the d-check has the 51 now and not when I bought the car..

[Legacy777]

It's possible the wiring with the swap was ok and has worked loose, which is causing the code. Unfortunately, it will require some further diagnostic and testing to trace that to determine the cause.

[Nibbib]

I'll check that, but a little good news is that the wiring was done right, it also has a good switch.

So now I'm still having the cel come up with
17- Injector #4 Fuel injector inoperative (Abnormal signal emitted from monitor circuit)
41- air/fuel learning

How do I check if the proper electrical current is getting to the injector?

And I haven't checked the d-check yet

[Legacy777]

Have you checked the resistance of the #4 injector compared to the other injectors? It's a simply and quick test.

[Nibbib]

Yea 1,2 & 4 were at 12.2 and the 3rd was at 12.5 so really close.

Might the ecu be messed up? I have done the d-check yet since I'm only have 17 and 41 being stored in the ecu

[Legacy777]

Ok, yeah those numbers are fine.

I would suggest checking the wiring from the injector to the ECU to see if it's good, and if it's still not working, it could be the ECU.

[Nibbib]

Okay do you have a diagram of the wiring?

[Legacy777]

The stuff you need to know forum is your friend.

http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=14485

[Nibbib]

update: i have no cels and i didnt do anything to the car the check engine light has been off for a week and i cant tell why, the weather is warmer in oregon now that the only reason i can think of, hahaha

but i do have a high idle again its not as bad but it will hold around 1250-1500 rpms

the IAC should be pretty clean from when i replaced all the vacuum lines and i asked a local subaru shop and they said maybe the TPS?? but i know my IAC has a hair line crack on the plastic top.....

any thoughts would be great..