Dankberries 1993 Impreza ej23t/25d build

[dankberries]

New ball joint are day and night! Holy sh*t the steering is stiffer and much more responsive! Love it!
True story , my ball joint boots where not even cracked or worn, but I could move them back in forth effortlessly with one finger. New ones took a hammer to move into place, major improvements, highly recommended!


And I want to keep this video foremost of my posts . This is the latest of my car.
http://youtu.be/-7b4XUGQ_s8

Colorado wrx/Sti owners club:
http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=53271

[mike-tracy]

I like the car, but I am jealous since the only time snow stuck around I had to work and couldn't enjoy it. I have an 00 coupe in the dark blue color and can't wait to swap it someday.

[dankberries]

Got some new hawk hps 5.0 brake pads and new DBA rotors. I also decided to switch from kart boy rear adapters to 06wrx backing plates, I didnt like how exposed the rotor was with the other backing plates/dust shield. Annnd did new rear wheel bearing since I had it all apart. Annnnd painted my calipers.. oh and custom air ducts welded on the front dust shields.

[BoneIslandScooby]

How did you get Nissan 4 pot fronts and 2 pot rears for $200.00 in rebuilt condition? I paid $225.00 for front and rear total, but they need to be rebuilt. The rears were nicely powdercoated though. I did not get the Aluminum front calipers. Mine are iron. Also, I'm sure plenty of people would be interested in those brackets for the front 4 pots. Do they allow you to mount a 2005 Legacy GT front rotor?

[dankberries]

How did you get Nissan 4 pot fronts and 2 pot rears for $200.00 in rebuilt condition? I paid $225.00 for front and rear total, but they need to be rebuilt. The rears were nicely powdercoated though. I did not get the Aluminum front rotors. Mine are iron. Also, I'm sure plenty of people would be interested in those brackets for the front 4 pots. Do they allow you to mount a 2005 Legacy GT front rotor?

At the time of purchase my wife was the manager @ checker auto parts(employee discount).
I've come up with three variations of brackets depending wheel/rim and rotor size. Currently using 05' gt rotors just bairly tucked under 16' rims.

[cj91legss]

What Nissan are those from, or does it even matter? Are they larger than FHI 4 pots?

[dankberries]

What Nissan are those from, or does it even matter? Are they larger than FHI 4 pots?

These can be found on the skyline gtr R32, z32 300zx TT, and s15 Silvia. They are virtually the exact same as Subaru FHI 4pots, both made by sumitomo, both use similar hardware.
The major differences, Nissan's where available in cast or aluminium(much lighter), they where available in a 26mm or 30mm size(with the 30mm can fit larger rotors than Subaru FHI 4pot i.e. LGT 05'-08 or Sti brembo rotors), and the biggest difference being the front calipers bolt on differently, hence the need for adapter brackets. However the rear calipers are a direct fitment with 06' wrx backing plates or kart boy rear adapters.
Oh and the price difference. $800+ for all four Subaru or $200+ for Nissan.

Sumitomo made the same 4 pots for Nissan, Subaru, Toyota , Mitsubishi, and possibly others I don't know.
I'm toying with the idea of making brackets for the Mitsubishi 4pots found on the 3000gt vr4. Something about being sacrilegious and having Mitsubishi calipers on a Subaru excites me lol.

[dankberries]

Thought I would try out some lift:

Front and rear comparison:



More lifted pics:

[cj91legss]

You have enough imprezas?

[dankberries]

You have enough imprezas?

According to my wallet, Yes.
In my mind, Hardly enough!
Wish I had the funds to swoop this absolutely mint condition "Unicorn". $3500 would take it but he will only sell if I promised to never modify it. If it was mine, it would be swapped.

[dankberries]

Started swapping out the transmission today, rather untraditional Thanksgiving.
JDM v.4 sti 4.11 5speed and new parts:

New exedy clutch:

New Megan motor and tranny mounts, also pitch stop:

New SS clutch that goes all the from master to slave. Replaces hard and soft line:

02 wrx clutch pedal assembly including gas pedal:


OEM 02 wrx flywheel.

Also discovered my drive shaft was wasted. Thought that vibration was unusual.

[Stack8]

Looks awesome! I would love to be able to swp an engine! let alone make it look that good!

[macipusy]

Looking good!...some serious stuff happening there.

I love all the GC's.

[dankberries]

After installing the new transmission I've been having some troubles getting the clutch to work properly.
My clutch pedal is only engaging about an inch off the floor. My first thought was a bad master or slave, I ended up replacing both but it didn't help any.
It seems as though the throwout bearing will not attach to the pressure plate. But I'm not exactly sure.
Yes this a brand new exedy clutch setup.
Yes the retaining clip was on the pressure plate, even perfectly aligned with balancing marks.
Yes the throw out was installed on the transmission first, then mated to engine.
Yes at the point of being mated I pushed the fork back to attach to bearing to pressure plate.

Ony after replacing the slave cylinder I noticed the fork had some play in it, I could move it an inch forward and back(perhaps not attached?)

Video of slave movement: (ignore the 4 women talking about nasty women things, just watch slave)
http://youtu.be/Q8MKUyT157Q

Video of clutch fork and throwout bearing:
http://youtu.be/pe68rhHrbB8

What's most confusing to me, if the throwout is NOT attached, then how the hell am I able to engage and disengage the clutch at all?
It seems if it wasn't attached that it would not be possible to engage the clutch. The clutch works and the car can drive, just its an inch off the floor.

[Legacy777]

You will get some movement with the clutch fork, that's normal. I'd say maybe a 1/2 or so is normal from my memory.

Can you pull the clutch back up to it's normal position? Typically when the clutch does not return all the way to the top it is due to the fact the pressure plate spring force hasn't been able to exert its pressure through the hydraulics back to the master cylinder and then clutch pedal.

What size clutch slave & master cylinder are you using? Are you 100% positive you have bled all the air from the system? My brother and I had to bleed the air from his 323 GTX over Thanksgiving. Depress and release the clutch pedal about 10 times, hold on the last one, open the bleeder screw, immediately close it after the fluid comes out, and then repeat the process. Make sure to keep an eye on the fluid in the clutch master cylinder. You don't want to run it dry.

[dankberries]

You will get some movement with the clutch fork, that's normal. I'd say maybe a 1/2 or so is normal from my memory.

Can you pull the clutch back up to it's normal position? Typically when the clutch does not return all the way to the top it is due to the fact the pressure plate spring force hasn't been able to exert its pressure through the hydraulics back to the master cylinder and then clutch pedal.

What size clutch slave & master cylinder are you using? Are you 100% positive you have bled all the air from the system? My brother and I had to bleed the air from his 323 GTX over Thanksgiving. Depress and release the clutch pedal about 10 times, hold on the last one, open the bleeder screw, immediately close it after the fluid comes out, and then repeat the process. Make sure to keep an eye on the fluid in the clutch master cylinder. You don't want to run it dry.

Yes I can pull it back up to its normal position. There is about six inches of useless travel before getting to that last inch at the floor. I'm using a 13/16 slave and 02 wrx master(1 1/16?)
I'm absolutely 100% sure the system is bled. Done many of these.
I have an inch if not more of play in the fork, seen in my video of clutch fork.

[dankberries]

Before I take this transmission back out, I just want someone to confirm to me that it wouldn't be physically possible to engage the clutch without the throwout bearing being attached to the pressure plate.

[cj91legss]

No you cannot engage the clutch without the bearing attached to the plate.
http://youtu.be/qDk81AJpbCA
http://youtu.be/8ioD40SWch8

[macipusy]

Sorry, never mind.....you are running a pull type clutch set up, not push. On the push style clutch setups, the TOB will not clip into the pressure plate.

Have you tried clipping it to the pressure plate first, and then inserting the fork into the TOB tabs once you are close to mating the engine/trans?

[dankberries]

No you cannot engage the clutch without the bearing attached to the plate.
http://youtu.be/qDk81AJpbCA
http://youtu.be/8ioD40SWch8

Thanks man that's great video.
So the amount of play I have is normal? http://youtu.be/pe68rhHrbB8

My throwout must be attached because I can engage the clutch. Just at an inch off the floor.

[dankberries]

Sorry, never mind.....you are running a pull type clutch set up, not push. On the push style clutch setups, the TOB will not clip into the pressure plate.

Have you tried clipping it to the pressure plate first, and then inserting the fork into the TOB tabs once you are close to mating the engine/trans?

I have not tried that yet. I didn't know that was possible.

[cj91legss]

I kinda think there's a problem somewhere between the slave and the clutch pedal. Under neath the dash, did you check to see that pin is attached where the rod connects to the pedal?

[dankberries]

I kinda think there's a problem somewhere between the slave and the clutch pedal. Under neath the dash, did you check to see that pin is attached where the rod connects to the pedal?

Most certainly. I just swapped to wrx pedals and also purchased a brand new master for testing. I've also adjusted it at the pedal but hasnt helped.
I also picked up a new slave for testing .
And I'm using a brand new SS line from master to slave.
And I've bleed the f**king sh*t out of it. Absolutely no air in my line.

[dankberries]

My Local Subie Guru looked at my video and thought for sure that was bad. He believes 3/8in. Play is normal but what I'm seeing is at least an inch if not more.
I'm totally confused/lost. I may need to take it All apart and confirm that the throwout is infact secured. I'm absolutely dreading taking everything back apart. I'm working on the ground and it sucks seriously bad, wish I had a lift. Ruff times in December in the CO mountains cold AF.

SideNote in my mind: why the F* would i take it All apart if I know the clutch does engage/disengage just at floor.!! This problem Screams HYDRAULIC problems but I put new sh*t in! And im masterful at bleeding clutches, I own a drift car w/ a 1400$ clutch that wastes stock Masters/Slaves. I replace on the regular.

[dankberries]

I think I've concluded my problem.

I went out on a whim and thought I could get away with a resurfaced flywheel. While this has worked for others , its certainty not recommended.
I think the shop I sent it to may have taken too much material away.