WRX fuel pump in an N/A??

[Danteandsoob]

So I been having issues with acceleration, where if I press the gas peddle down past 50% the car stutters like a fuel-cut. I saw someone had this exact same problem a while ago in this thread: http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic. ... 96&start=0
They replaced the fuel pump and fixed everything. I could go to a junkyard and get a stock N/A fuel pump, but I got my hands on a WRX fuel pump that looks like it will fit. Will this work for on a non-turbo car because the WRX pump flows more? If it works, will I get other problems? (lose of MPG, lose/gain in power,etc.)

[Legacy777]

It should work. The fuel pressure regulator will bypass excess fuel to maintain proper pressure in the fuel rails.

[Danteandsoob]

Sweet, you're the man Josh.

So I shouldn't have any loses because of this?

[Legacy777]

What do you mean by losses?

[Danteandsoob]

I just meant if there would be any negative affects from a high flow rate.

So I just replaced the pump and I'm stiff having the same problem. Injectors? Spark?

[SILINC3R]

A lot of us upgrade to the Walbro fuel pump just because they are cheap and ours are so old. They aren't that high flowing and as Josh stated the regulator only takes the required fuel anyway. The pump is just to make sure the flow is more constate and stable. If you are getting fuel cut like symptoms make sure all your vacuum hose are connected and intake system.

[Danteandsoob]

Could the IAC be the issue? I've been having to adjust it regularly because it always drops the idle too low.

[Legacy777]

You shouldn't be adjusting the IAC valve. The ECU takes inputs from various sensors and adjusts the idle electronically. You need to fix the problem, not the symptom. The idle fluctuation is a symptom.

Out of curiousity, have you checked for stored codes and done the active diagnostic test?

What modifications do you have on the car? Do you by chance have an "intake"/pod style filter?

[Danteandsoob]

I have checked for any possible codes.

I still have the airbox, but with the 45* style airbox, not the 90* that comes with the box. Snorkus delete.
I noticed it started a bit after the intake tract and box change. I wonder if it's just too much air-to-fuel mixing.
If so that sucks because the gains were noticeable when I did that, but I digress.
I also have the TB coolant bypassed.
>7xxx mile V-Powers, >10,xxx used NGK wires.

[Danteandsoob]

Update: So today I cleaned the MAF with MAF cleaner, still didn't help. After that I changed the spark plug wires with an existing pair to see if the pair on the car was torn some where. Still nothing. Tonight I will change the airbox to the 90* style and see if that helps.
I don'r think the TB cooent bypass would affect anything because cooler air in is always a good thing.

2nd edit: so I went home and changed the 45* to the 90*, swapped out the MAF from the other car, and cleaned that one as well. Absolutely nothing changed. Every vacuum hose was perfect as well so that's not it either.

One thing I noticed was that It bogs/stutters UNDER 1800 rpm. After that it's totally fine. Any ideas what else I can check??

[Legacy777]

Yeah, the 45 deg airbox should be fine.

Have you checked your knock sensor? Is the plastic connector the white or gray style connector? These cars had issues with knock sensors causing "bogging" at certain RPM's.