I search for all sorts of things in the mornings before work always looking for good deals on car parts. I stumbled across these wrx/sti adjustable camber plates. Now I know nothing about camber/toe/caster but I could easily read up. In fact there's simple descriptions on the eBay page that are fairly easy to understand, so I guess I know something now.....
Anyways I know there for a GD and I'd have to re drill the tower holes to use them and have no problem doing that since I have also been eye balling some GD titanium jdm strut bars as well.
I'd like to get some opinions from you guys about these. Maybe they're worth the 80 bucks or not. FWIW My 92 already has sti suspension.
Also these would just completely replace the tophats right? I didn't see anything on the page about installation.
I tried to google these too but didn't see any thing on the wrx forums about the company.
Item here
http://www.ebay.com/itm/261703655761?_t ... EBIDX%3AIT
Camber plate questions.
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cj91legss
- Fifth Gear
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Camber plate questions.
91 L-TW Wagon with a full Swap -RIP
92 SS Prefaced, GD dash swapped, 22T/205 Hybrid 20 psi - BEAST!
93 SS Bone Stock Gone!
94 TW Bone Stock Gone!
91 SS 4EAT Sold!
98 LGT 4EAT
98 LGT Wagon 4EAT
92 SS Prefaced, GD dash swapped, 22T/205 Hybrid 20 psi - BEAST!
93 SS Bone Stock Gone!
94 TW Bone Stock Gone!
91 SS 4EAT Sold!
98 LGT 4EAT
98 LGT Wagon 4EAT
Re: Camber plate questions.
They will fit in the towers, but be at an angle. That is just fine and gives you more caster (more positive caster is generally a good thing), you just have to be sure to set them in the same position from left to right. In fact, I pretty much always swap the plates from left to right so that the adjustment is angled in and back, set them to the max, and then adjust camber at the hub from there.
The problems that you will have, is that the bottom of the bearing on those sits lower than it does on a stock tophat. So the front could end up anywhere up to 1/2" taller afterward.
The other problem is that those are going to clunk and rattle probably right away and then only get worse. A good spherical bearing for that application costs about $40 on it's own so you are not getting quality.
Personally I have the whiteline offset tops. Gets me more camber and caster, uses a stiffer material, keeps ride height/bump travel where it is supposed to, and lasts a pretty long time and doesn't clunk. They're a little under $200.
The problems that you will have, is that the bottom of the bearing on those sits lower than it does on a stock tophat. So the front could end up anywhere up to 1/2" taller afterward.
The other problem is that those are going to clunk and rattle probably right away and then only get worse. A good spherical bearing for that application costs about $40 on it's own so you are not getting quality.
Personally I have the whiteline offset tops. Gets me more camber and caster, uses a stiffer material, keeps ride height/bump travel where it is supposed to, and lasts a pretty long time and doesn't clunk. They're a little under $200.
Last edited by jamal on Thu Jan 29, 2015 6:50 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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cj91legss
- Fifth Gear
- Posts: 6322
- Joined: Fri Jun 20, 2008 8:17 am
- Location: Lakewood, Wa 98439
- Contact:
Re: Camber plate questions.
Good point about the bearings. I will likely pass on them then. I'm going to look more into something adjustable since my 92 goes thru tires. I also found a thread about alignments at home. I'll give that a good read.
91 L-TW Wagon with a full Swap -RIP
92 SS Prefaced, GD dash swapped, 22T/205 Hybrid 20 psi - BEAST!
93 SS Bone Stock Gone!
94 TW Bone Stock Gone!
91 SS 4EAT Sold!
98 LGT 4EAT
98 LGT Wagon 4EAT
92 SS Prefaced, GD dash swapped, 22T/205 Hybrid 20 psi - BEAST!
93 SS Bone Stock Gone!
94 TW Bone Stock Gone!
91 SS 4EAT Sold!
98 LGT 4EAT
98 LGT Wagon 4EAT
Re: Camber plate questions.
Tire wear is usually just a toe issue, or worn out bushings maybe. As long as the tires are pointed straight and all the parts are in good condition you can actually get away with quite a bit of camber before uneven wear becomes an issue (although it also depends on the tire and how you drive). With worn out suspension bushings and tops, the alignment of the wheels while driving down the road isn't the same as it is when it's on the alignment rack, so even if things are perfectly straight to start, you can still end up with funny wear.
There is already front camber adjustment, so these aren't really going to help you there. The main reason for an adjustable top plate is to get well past the factory range for better track/auto x grip. Stock adjustment is going to get you to maybe -1 degrees of camber, which is fine for driving around but not going to be ideal when cornering really hard (if the outsides of the tires are wearing faster, you need more negative camber).
I widened the lower holes in my front struts, plus have the offset front tops. That gets me up somewhere over -2.5 degrees. If I wanted more than that I would have to get a plate, but it's a pretty acceptable compromise between grip and tire wear for me.
There is already front camber adjustment, so these aren't really going to help you there. The main reason for an adjustable top plate is to get well past the factory range for better track/auto x grip. Stock adjustment is going to get you to maybe -1 degrees of camber, which is fine for driving around but not going to be ideal when cornering really hard (if the outsides of the tires are wearing faster, you need more negative camber).
I widened the lower holes in my front struts, plus have the offset front tops. That gets me up somewhere over -2.5 degrees. If I wanted more than that I would have to get a plate, but it's a pretty acceptable compromise between grip and tire wear for me.