I chose it because of it was expandable with the option of adding other sensors, and more importantly, it allowed for a narrow band simulator wire so I could just replace my existing narrow band 02 sensor. The install was actually pretty straightforward, and after getting it hooked up, everything worked right out of the gate.
I ordered the DM-6 Genertion 4 SM-AFR kit that came with the AFR sensor along with a multi-gauge display.
The multi-gauge display came with the gauge, an extensions, splitter (for additional sensors if you choose not to pigtail I would imagine).
The SMF sensor came with the little sensor module, a grey wire for narrow band output that can be pinned into the pigtail going to the guauge, the Bosche Wideband sensor (LSU 4.9), a wiring harness that connects the wideband to the sensor module, a daisy chain cord (for additional sensors), and some power wire (ground & power).
I ran the harness through the rubber plug behind the clutch pedal that comes out near the brake master cylinder. I had already ran wires through it for my AWIC pump and my boost gauge hose, so it was pretty simple to cut a little larger opening and fit the new harness wire through. The harness plug is pretty good size though, so getting it through the plug was a bit of a struggle, but all in all, not too bad.
To plug the narrow band wire into the ecu, I found the oxygen sensor's signal pin (B43.6 - White wire) from an EJ20 ECU pinout in one of the Rob Tune threads (I'm running a Rob Tune - but the pinout should be the same on an EJ22T ecu). I just used a sewing needle to pull the pin out of the harness and then spliced a connection to plug in my own narrow band signal wire. I made it reversible so I could pull it out if I need to.
You can see here that I had to plug the pinned grey wire (supplied) into the pigtail connector of the gauge. It has two empty spots for pins to be added to the connector. Both supply an analogue output.
I wasn't sure where to put the module at first, but I wanted it under the dash somewhere and hidden away. I thought about hiding it behind the radio, but found a good spot for it above the driver's right knee under the dash. There is a metal lip that I was able to zip-tie the module to. With all the connections in there, it is pretty solidly in place and shouldn't be going anywhere.
I wired power to a switched ignition power wire that I had previously used for the AWIC pump, so that was easy enough to splice in. I then used ground on the a bolt into the chassis between the driver's right knee and the radio.
The little sucker is pretty bright I have to say but not too obtrusive. The LED lighting is definately more vibrant than an incandescent gauge. The gauge is touch sensitive with 3 touch areas for changing modes and readouts.
With the one sensor I have the AFR, volts, sensor life expectancy, and sensor reaction speed. With each of those you can change how that information is displayed on the gauge in a few different ways.
The gauge is reading a bit rich at idle on there because the engine was cold and I had just reved it to see it work. Normally it sits at about 13.6-14.7 while idling.
I took it for a drive and was seeing the it read in the 12's under WOT with 13psi of boost on the vf-23 and the rob-tune. I've wanted to get this thing installed before playing with any higher boost numbers. I'm thinking this is a little lean (?). I'll be doing some more testing and looking for boost leaks and/or getting my injectors cleaned and flow tested. I'm getting some knock light flicker under load when boosting and I need to figure out if it is a legitimate warning or not.
So far I like it, but haven't had much time to play around with it yet.
-Ryan
