No boost, only 3000 rpms. PLEASE HELP

[legacyfrank]

I just installed 2 catch cans and modified my intake and I got it all back together and now my car will not hit boost or go over 3000 rpms. It idles good and I had a check engine light for just a minute. My car had ran great before I added the catch cans and everything else. I had the turbo off the car and before starting the car I had primed the turbo. I replaced the PCV valve and I sprayed some maf cleaner into the maf and lightly blew it dry. Did not take the actual sensor out. Maybe did I screw up the maf?

In the picture below, a couple things that I am not sure about to would be the crap quality hose clamps on the red hose. They are harbor freight clamps so maybe not a good seal would cause this issue?

Another thing, the hose from the IACV not having a clamp... would a small leak there cause this?




I had also shortened this hose about 8-10 in. I did not think that would cause any issues but that was another change. Or do I have something routed wrong here with the boost controller and the solenoid?





And here is a simple diagram of my catch can set up. had modified a previous one I saw on here. To me this setup is correct because everything gets routed back to the original spot.



Maybe I should have the boost control solenoid hose connect to the inlet at a different spot in comparison to IACV and purge valve?




That is everything I can think of. Any input is much appreciated, I would really like to get back to driving this car. I will be getting better clamps and double check the vacuum setup in the morning.

[Legacy777]

Your diagram looks good.

The big thing I have question about is the boost control solenoid. Are you using the stock boost control solenoid or a MBC or something non-stock? If you're using the stock boost control solenoid you have the hose connections wrong. You have it routing into itself. The only reason I could see to do this would be if you are not using it, but if that's the case I don't know why you would bother hooking up the boost control solenoid vent line into the intake tubing.

Also, have you checked the ECU for codes? If the CEL came on there's likely a code stored.

[legacyfrank]

Thanks a lot Josh for the reply.


I have a manual boost controller and boost gauge that was installed by the previous owner and has worked for me the last 2 years. The BCS was plumbed that way previously and everything seemed to work fine. I have not checked the codes yet eaither, I will be doing that later today. I could only find 2 green T shaped plugs under the dash, not a black one as described in the sticky for checking codes. Can I just use the green ones and drive the car around to check it?

I noticed that in the link below they route the MBC a little bit different. Mine goes from the turbine housing nipple to the MBC then to the waste gate actuator. Is this incorrect?

http://legacycentral.org/library/literature/hbc.htm

[Legacy777]

You can try using the green connectors to see if there are any active codes. This would only likely be helpful if the CEL is currently on. What year is your Legacy? Check on the other side of the steering column. On the later years the black connectors were on one side and the green on the other.

How you describe the MBC routing sounds correct, except it's called the compressor housing nipple and not turbine housing.

[legacyfrank]

My car is a 94. There are 2 black T shaped plugs that are connected together with 2 wires to them that are on the other side from the green plugs. When I disconnected these, the beep noise that comes from your key in the ignition while your door is open (mine always beeps even with the key out and the door open for some odd reason) this continuous beeping had stopped, but that might be a whole different issue on it own. But I do not see anything else that would plug into it.

When I plugged the 2 green plugs together and turned the key the fans would cycle and all the dash lights turn on and it sound like something else turning on.

[legacyfrank]

I just let the car warm up, shut it off, then plugged the 2 green plugs together and then drove around for a little bit and the check engine light would just flash consistently.

[Legacy777]

That black T plug is something different and should be left connected.

Did you follow the procedure on my site for using the green connectors? If so and the continuously blinking indicates there's no codes present.

[legacyfrank]

I took everything apart and found a line plugged still from fitment of my coffee can mod.

Thanks

[Legacy777]

Ok, glad you figured out what the problem was.