91 Legacy Turbo lots of cel problems.

[ICEMANFiZ]

So I picked up a 91 Turbo legacy 5spd and finally pulled the codes.
Code 17 injector 4
Code 22 knock sensor (replaced still there)
Code 23 air flow sensor
Code 24 air control valve
Code 35 canister purge solenoid valve
Code 45 pressure sensor and exchange valve.

Now the car runs fine for most part. Every once in a while I will get a small fuel cut under full load for a split second every once in awhile but it runs fine. Car has 197k and no prior history on work done.

Any ideas where to start? I have put anew knock sensor in and nothing. I've cleaned iacv with sea foam and nothing. Clean maf sensor... Car doesn't feel like a turbo car but can hear a small whine of turbo when under load, but nothing like the Wrx's I've owned over the years.





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[mike-tracy]

clear the codes and see what comes back

[ICEMANFiZ]

clear the codes and see what comes back

I tried twice. They all stayed.


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[mike-tracy]

What procedure did you use to reset the codes? Sometimes code 35 causes you to not be able to clear the other ones. Is the purge valve connected electrically and are its vacuum lines routed properly and not cracked or leaking?

[ICEMANFiZ]

What procedure did you use to reset the codes? Sometimes code 35 causes you to not be able to clear the other ones. Is the purge valve connected electrically and are its vacuum lines routed properly and not cracked or leaking?

After I diagnosed the codes I unhooked battery multiple times for a period of time and pumped brakes. Never did they go away. Car seems to run fine, just not familiar with Turbo legacy power to know if it's in some kind of limp mode or full potential.


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[mike-tracy]

It's 160hp when stock, so it feels pretty close to an outback, Forester or other ej25 subaru, with torque coming on sooner.

I think it's worth a shot to try clearing codes the official way, using the test connectors. Legacy777 also mentions pulling a power relay to clear codes, but I don't remember which one.

[mike-tracy]

Dave, I'd definitely suggest using the method on your web page. Some ECUs (I don't know about any particular ones) do store trouble codes in nonvolatile or semi-nonvolatile memory, so a battery disconnection doesn't delete them.

There's also a bonus with the "proper" memory clearing procedure: it has a self-diagnostic built in. Basically, the ECU does some active checks for problems. Only if the problems are actually gone will it clear the codes. If your neutral switch is missing, but the other problems aren't still there, it should clear the other codes, I think.

It's not as complicated as the instructions sound. Just hook up both sets of connectors (the green pair and the black pair), and turn the ignition on. You'll hear various solenoids cycle and stuff as the car tests them. Then start the engine and drive for a while normally. The CEL start blinking after a while.

If it's making 1-second long blinks about a second apart, then the codes are cleared. If it's blinking a trouble code, then it still found that problem.

[ICEMANFiZ]

It's 160hp when stock, so it feels pretty close to an outback, Forester or other ej25 subaru, with torque coming on sooner.

Have you driven around with just the green connectors attached? That will show you just the active codes.

I think it's worth a shot to try clearing codes the official way, using the test connectors. Legacy777 also mentions pulling a power relay to clear codes, but I don't remember which one.

I can try just green connectors and drive around. The fan kicking on and off is annoying. Lol

Thanks for info


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[ICEMANFiZ]

Dave, I'd definitely suggest using the method on your web page. Some ECUs (I don't know about any particular ones) do store trouble codes in nonvolatile or semi-nonvolatile memory, so a battery disconnection doesn't delete them.

There's also a bonus with the "proper" memory clearing procedure: it has a self-diagnostic built in. Basically, the ECU does some active checks for problems. Only if the problems are actually gone will it clear the codes. If your neutral switch is missing, but the other problems aren't still there, it should clear the other codes, I think.

It's not as complicated as the instructions sound. Just hook up both sets of connectors (the green pair and the black pair), and turn the ignition on. You'll hear various solenoids cycle and stuff as the car tests them. Then start the engine and drive for a while normally. The CEL start blinking after a while.

If it's making 1-second long blinks about a second apart, then the codes are cleared. If it's blinking a trouble code, then it still found that problem.

Sweet! I will plug them both in when I get off work and drive home. Within 10 miles to my house it should do what it's suppose too.

I report back the details...

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[ICEMANFiZ]

So I plugged both in on my drive home.... it was only blinking code 35 with both plugged in all the way home.

I get home unplug green after I shut off car and turn key back on and all the codes were still blinking.

Any ideas?


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[mike-tracy]

Since only code 35 came on during the active test, that's the only one you actually have (or at least, the only one the ecu sees for now). Some ecu's won't erase the other codes until it's cleared, and yours seems to be one of those.

Check the vacuum reference guide here:
http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?t=15268

Make sure all the vacuum lines coming off the purge control solenoid (PCS), as well as to and from the charcoal canister are hooked up correctly, and have no cracks or pinhole leaks. Make sure the PCS is plugged in. After you've checked all that and replaced hoses as needed, and done the active diagnostics mode again, if you still have the code your PCS may be bad.

[ICEMANFiZ]

Since only code 35 came on during the active test, that's the only one you actually have (or at least, the only one the ecu sees for now). Some ecu's won't erase the other codes until it's cleared, and yours seems to be one of those.

Check the vacuum reference guide here:
http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?t=15268

Make sure all the vacuum lines coming off the purge control solenoid (PCS), as well as to and from the charcoal canister are hooked up correctly, and have no cracks or pinhole leaks. Make sure the PCS is plugged in. After you've checked all that and replaced hoses as needed, and done the active diagnostics mode again, if you still have the code your PCS may be bad.

Thanks for the help Mike. I will check this over too. It's crazy the cel won't go away and delete these stored codes... I even pulled battery and ecu fuse pumped breaks and sat for 8 hours tell this morning and still right there. Lol Yet my other obd Subarus would delete with disconnect almost instantly.


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[mike-tracy]

If I hadn't seen that particular code doing the same thing on other cars, I'd think you were doing something wrong, lol. But I have seen it

[Legacy777]

Code 35 will only come up if the electrical part of the canister purge solenoid is bad. You likely need to replace the solenoid. If you have a used one you could try that, but how the hoses are hooked up won't cause the CEL to come on.

The reason code 35 is like and doesn't allow the other codes to clear is because it's emissions related. Replace the solenoid and then run the active diagnostic again with just the green connectors. If nothing comes up then clear the codes following the procedure with both the green and black connectors connected.