Oh great hive mind of the internet, share your infinate knowledge with me!



Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
Moderators: Helpinators, Moderators
When the hose is not kinked at all, the engine will start, idle at 2k, and stay where it was reved to. If i didnt kink it, i would have multiple issues on the road.Legacy777 wrote:Welcome to the BBS.
Why is/are you kinking the hose going to the idle air control valve? That would likely explain why the idle is poor.
Ill try to check/replace it when i get payed next. I kind of spent all of my money on car parts when i bought it.Aki wrote:The low idle when cold sounds like a coolant temp sensor. Start with that, easy to test. There's one for the gauge and one for the ECU, you'll want to test/replace the latter (2-wire).
xxthatcrazyhobox wrote:When the hose is not kinked at all, the engine will start, idle at 2k, and stay where it was reved to. If i didnt kink it, i would have multiple issues on the road.Legacy777 wrote:Welcome to the BBS.
Why is/are you kinking the hose going to the idle air control valve? That would likely explain why the idle is poor.
Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
Kind if. I unplugged the batt and un kinked the hose. But it was only unplugged for a max of 15 minuts.Legacy777 wrote:xxthatcrazyhobox wrote:When the hose is not kinked at all, the engine will start, idle at 2k, and stay where it was reved to. If i didnt kink it, i would have multiple issues on the road.Legacy777 wrote:Welcome to the BBS.
Why is/are you kinking the hose going to the idle air control valve? That would likely explain why the idle is poor.
Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
In my opinion you are trying to fix a symptom rather than a cause. In troubleshooting you need to fix the root cause of the problem. Subaru did not intend for the IAC hose to be kinked.
If I'm understanding you, if the hose is not kinked the idle stays at 2,000 rpm. What other issues do you have? Have you tried unplugging the electrical connector from the IAC valve to see if the behavior is different or if the idle stays at 2,000 rpm?
Same question about these symptoms.My symptoms are.... car idles at 1500 when warm and barly idles at 500 when cold. I need to constantly pulse the throttle to keep it running until it gets warm, and even then it wont idle untill i have driven it at least 5 minuts. I also only get about 10-14 mpg (i know, American db). For this i am referencing the picture with the circle.
Other symptoms include the engine cutting off sometimes when i hit boost, and the clutch not grabbing well.
These happen when the hose is kinked. It is un drivable when it is un kinked.Legacy777 wrote:Your post is not clear, which is I asked the question about the issues/symptoms occurring when the hose is not kinked.
Do these symptoms occur with the IAC hose kinked or not kinked?
Same question about these symptoms.My symptoms are.... car idles at 1500 when warm and barly idles at 500 when cold. I need to constantly pulse the throttle to keep it running until it gets warm, and even then it wont idle untill i have driven it at least 5 minuts. I also only get about 10-14 mpg (i know, American db). For this i am referencing the picture with the circle.
Other symptoms include the engine cutting off sometimes when i hit boost, and the clutch not grabbing well.
cartwheels wrote:It sounds like your idle air control valve is stuck open or malfunctioning in some way.
No, i havent thought of unplugging the iacv yet. Ill try.Legacy777 wrote:cartwheels wrote:It sounds like your idle air control valve is stuck open or malfunctioning in some way.
What he said.
Have you tried unplugging the electrical connector from the IAC valve to see if the behavior is different or if the idle stays at 2,000 rpm?