Standalone ECU Wiring HELP please.

[91Legacyresto]

Little background here. I rebuilt a 22e recently with 25d heads and intake. Going to use this hybrid motor until I have my 22t block filled with forged internals. I'm using the stock 22e engine harness, connectors, and original wiring throughout the car to keep it somewhat simplified.

I have 90% of all the wiring figured out for the standalone I bought. But I need a little input as to how the ignition switch works and will supply power to the standalone. I was told that the self-shutoff needs to be connected in order for anything to receive signal or power when I turn the key in the ignition.

I already figured out the 5v reference needs to go to the IACV power. The PWMs I've also figured out, and I believe there 2 more grounds I need to connect. I'm making a plug n play unit with a breakout board I bought for the stock ecu connectors inside the car. I have included the diagram for the standalone and our cars wiring below. Any extra help would be greatly appreciated as I'm stupid close to finishing this up.

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[scoobiedoo22]

I'm very interested in your findings as I have recently been looking into the SpeedyEFI Fishdog standalone as a real serious contender for engine management (at least for the poor man!!!) but I don't need to sell you that on it. Looking at your pinouts, I see what you mean...there is the 12 volt source (B48.2 & Pin 9) but nothing for the ignition "switch" (B58.12) on the FIshdog side. My best suggestion would be to get on the Facebook forums and reach out to the Speedy guys directly as I know they are very active on the forums. To help on the bbs-end of things, look at the sticky compilation thread and just about anything with "EJ20G", "EJ20G Robtune", or "EJ22T" Pinout should net you some great info on the stock harness side of things. Those were always my main sources when making patch harnesses.

Keep us posted as I imagine these Speedy/Speeduino units are gonna get more popular as Rob, unfortunately, seems to be more than gently moving away from the early gen Subaru ECU market.

[91Legacyresto]

I'm currently apart of the subaru NA/T forum which has both of the speedyefi guys on it. Issac has been a great help along the way. Unfortunately i cant get quite a straight answer for it. I went with the fishdog because it has everything (or so it seems) that our older simpler engines need to run and get a proper tune.

So I've been digging around for diagrams and I came across 2 that somewhat simplified the cars harness side of it for me. Still a little confusing. I believe it goes battery - fuse block - ignition switch - ecu - self shut off circuit - main relay which then powers everything including the ecu. I was told the ignition switch feeds the SSC which triggers the main relay.

So technically I should just have to connect my ignition switch wire straight to a 12v source right? And possibly connect the SSC to a 12v source as well? I'm not opposed to running my own wires, fuses, and switches if it will make it all work. Would kinda be like a kill switch right? I know theres a way bc theres plenty of subarus using a fishdog already.

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[Legacy777]

I can try and help you with this a I'm very familiar with the Legacy wiring. I wired and installed a Link G3 Plus stand alone ECU in my Legacy. I would just need to see the information for your particular ECU. Do you have any links/information you can share for me to look at?

Also, in reading over your posts I'm not sure some of the findings you've made are correct. You mention a 5v reference voltage for the idle air control valve. There is no 5v reference voltage that needs to go to the IAC valve. If you can give me some links/more information on exactly what you're using I can take a look at it and give you some feedback.

[91Legacyresto]

1. I was a big dummy a couple days ago. The 5v reference goes into the TPS not the IACV. Pwm1 and 2 are the closed/open circuits for the IACV.

2. I think I solved my issue with the self shut off wire. It needs to see 12v, and my SpeedyEFI does not have a spot for the ignition switch to run through itself to power the SSC. So it should be just as simple as jumping the ignition switch on the original connector over to the SSC. So when I turn the key in the ignition, it should send power through the SSC allowing everything else to power up afterwards. It should also cut power to the SSC when I take the key out. Correct me if I'm wrong?

3. I've added just about every ground from the original car side harness into the new ecu so everything should be grounded properly.

4. I believe I have it all figured out now. I just mainly need clarification on the ignition switch to SSC and if it works like I think it does.

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[Legacy777]

Sorry for the delay in responding. I looked and didn't hook up the self-shutoff to anything. Here is my Link install ECU-I/O table.

https://main.experiencetherave.com/suba ... -O_Map.pdf

[91Legacyresto]

It's all good man. I appreciate the input you're helping me with. Seems like you have a few things connected that I do not. What is mainly concerning me is the starter, idle, and A/C switches you have connected. Are those what sends power to your ecu? I noticed you didnt use either of the 2 control unit power supplies at all. So does one of those keep main power flowing into the ecu? I was told the ignition switch powers the self shutoff, which apparently allows power to flow into the main relay allowing everything to recieve power.

Lots of little things I wont be using, like all the MAP, MAF, wastegate control, canister purge control, oxygen sensor. My new ecu has a built in internal MAP sensor I'll be using, as well as a GM iat sensor, and a aem wideband.

1. I was told that MY ECU doesnt care about the starter switch. (I assume it tells the starter when to crank over, am I wrong?)

2. Not exactly sure what the idle switch does...

3. A/C switch, is this for the air conditioning or does it stand for alternating current? (I feel like a dummy asking this one, I deleted my air conditioning bc I never used it).

4. If your car starts without giving the SSC power, I'm kinda curious as to what's giving your ecu its main power. I was also told without the SSC connected, the car won't shut off when you remove the key bc the main relay would still be receiving power keeping things turned on.

5. Sorry if I'm a little confusing. Just a small bit of clarification is all I need. I've looked at our wiring diagrams for days and cant come up with anymore answers for myself.

Thanks for the help man!!! You're just about one of the last guys who still checks this site and helps out. I appreciate all the input a lot. You've helped me more than once in the past.

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[Legacy777]

I did use the two control unit power supplies, I just didn't label it specifically on that chart since it was pretty self explanatory. Yes, you would want to use those two feeds for the ECU. OR....what you can do is run a separate lead from the battery through a separate relay setup to the new ECU. Use those control power supplies to trigger the relay and provide a power feed to the new ECU. I saw this because over time the wiring can have additional resistance and you may experience some voltage drop from the battery to the ECU. If your voltage at the battery and at the ECU power supplies is the same then you should be fine.

The other thing I did is went a little further/(maybe overboard) on the grounding. The ECU grounds all tie into ground point on the back of the intake manifold on the driver's side. I ran a 10 gauge ground wire from the battery to that point to tie everything together, and similarly ran another ground wire from the battery to the chassis and starter ground point.

The starter switch is used if your ECU has a fuel enrichment during engine cranking. If your ECU doesn't have that feature then there shouldn't be any need to hook that up.

On the older stock ECU's they used the idle switch to tell the ECU when the throttle plate was closed. The newer ECU's calculated based on the position of the throttle plate upon startup. (which is why you shouldn't start the car while depressing the throttle)

AC switch is for the air conditioning. It tells the ECU when the air conditioning is on and the ECU adjusts idle rpms & afr slightly

I hope that clarifies things, but if you need anything else let me know. I was looking for my Link ECU thread and it appears I didn't have one thread dedicated to the install, but rather a long thread talking about ECU's and such.

[91Legacyresto]

You just clarified everything I needed to know man. I appreciate all the input and patience. As far as I know iv got everything hooked up right and it should be ready to go. I've been taking some tuning lessons. Tuners are expensive and I'd rather know what my car is doing rather than having someone else set it up. This is gunna be my experiment for the future 22t setup. I want to be able to help others in the future and keep these platforms alive.

You can never have enough grounding! I use to be heavily particular on how I use to run my audio systems so I'm familiar with good grounds.

My ecu does have warmup enrichment but it doesnt need the starter switch to use it. I clarified that with the SpeedyEFI owners themselves. Thank you for clarifying that's what that does.

The idle switch will be completely useless to my standalone as well as it wont need that signal.

I deleted my A/C so that's definitely useless to me

Waiting on some yellow top injectors, BPV, and welding the exhaust. Otherwise it's all ready to go now and start tuning. I'm hoping I'll get a safe 14 or 15psi out of this setup. If my math was right it should be around 8.5:1 comp ratio. 22e block, 25d heads, and 22t MLS gasket. I removed and cleaned the pistons so I'm hoping to get good results from this setup

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[91Legacyresto]

Lmao my place was a mess at the time I took this picture

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[Legacy777]

Looks like a nice setup!

I read up on tuning and while I completely understand how to do it and theory, it is more of an art form then hard and fast way to do it. Not saying I couldn't learn, I just didn't have the time or patience to deal with it and found it easier for me at least to pay someone to do it. However, having someone that is intimately knowledgeable about your specific ECU is critical.

Re the start-up enrichment; there are varying levels of enrichment. The LInk as crank enrichment which injects during cranking, you have a post-startup enrichment, and then a warm-up enrichment. All of these various enrichments allow you to get as close to the stock ECU's functionality. This is why I went with the Link back in the day.....and why I didn't go with a stand alone prior to that as I didn't want to sacrifice the stock ECU's functionality.

[91Legacyresto]

Thanks dude, the ex manifold n up pipe were rotated to have a straight path for the turbos intake.
Tuning is definitely an art form. The car is no longer my daily driver so it'll be a whole learning process along the way. I have a few buddy's who have done this ecu swap already and are willing to help me out when I run into weird spots. The ecu actually has the cranking enrichment, starting enrichment, and warm up enrichment based on the coolant temp and other factors. The ecu comes with a base tune that should get me started. However, I dont really plan on making the car drivable for probably a few weeks to a month until I feel what I've done timing and fuel wise is safe across everything.

I know it's a lot of parameters and graphs and setting and such. I get kinda lucky bc I'm usually off by 2pm everyday (construction worker lol). So it gives me time to learn and play around with the software on spare time. It's the same way I rebuilt the motor in my living room haha. Having a second car is definitely going to help me out during this process.

I want to post up a full build log at some point here soon when I drop the motor in and slap the ecu in as well. I have a few 1st gen friends that want a standalone option, but dont want to pay a ton for one, or a ton on a tuning. I'm only 22 so with time I'm sure I can make it an art form I'll love to do. My ultimate dream is to open a performance shop some day, but this economy now days is getting rough.

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[Legacy777]

Well good luck with the project and definitely take lots of pictures and keep notes. When you get to that point let me know and I'll add you to the build group if you'd like to create a build journal.

Keep us updated on your progress!

[91Legacyresto]

Back again lol. So now i believe im having a voltage drop issue. I have all the wiring to the fishdog nicely done and connected. Tunerstudio (TS) shows the batterys voltage at 12.0 eventhough im seeing 12.6 at the battery with a volt meter. Then while cranking, TS only shows 10.0v. How much voltage should it drop if everything is normal? 2v seems like a significant drop while cranking. I also think this is causing me issues, with my coolant temp sensor and crank sensor. TS doesnt see any crank signal eventhough the harness has continuity throughout it. The coolant temp reads correct only being a few degrees off of ambient air temps with the ignition off, but switched to "on" or while cranking it jumps majorly to 180 deg.

I know above you had mentioned about running a new relay to the ecu. Clarify me if im wrong, but you said i should use the cars original control power supply wires to trigger my new relay, which would then send a fresh clean signal to the ecu. Im familiar with wiring now lol. What type of relay would you recommend? Im guessing any simple on/off relay fed from the battery and separate fuse would work.

Also, any extra tips for grounding? As far as grounding goes i only have the original ground from battery to back of starter, and a smaller ground from battery to chasis behind headlight. Im thinking of adding another from battery to intake manifold, and battery to chasis. Any particular point on the chasis you found to be good or should any spot be alright as long as there isnt paint under it?

Youve always been a big help along the process of my build man. Thankyou lots in advance and for all the patience with my questions.

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[Legacy777]

Just to clarify.....So with the key in the ignition and in the "ON" position you have a measured voltage at the battery of 12.6v and 12.0v in TS? Have you tried measuring the voltage with your meter at the ECU in this scenario to confirm your meter and TS are reading the same?

What is the voltage at the battery while the engine is cranking? Does it also show 10v or something different?

It sounds like you have some wiring issues. Can you provide details on exactly what you hooked up to where? Or is what you posted in your original thread what you did? I'd have to go back and review.

First you need to see if your voltage drop is really an issue or just a weak battery. Second, for the coolant temp sensor to do that there is either a ground issue or some sort of other problem with the wiring or ECU. Question; how are you verifying the coolant temp sensor is correct when the ignition is off....since the ignition switch is supposed to turn on/off the ECU?

I'd suggest adding another ground from the battery to ECU ground point on the back of the intake manifold and another chassis ground. If you don't have 0 ohms between the battery and starter I'd also suggest adding another beefier wire as well.

[91Legacyresto]

Good news. I have solved all of my wiring issues. Mainly by adding a few extra ground wires to the harness. More good news. The car had perfevt sync off of the 36-2-2-2 crank gear immediately and fired up pretty quick.

She was running super rich at first. Around a 10.2 afr. I definitely need to play with the fuel map and warm up enrichment settings. I was able to get it to a 13.5 afr last night on warm up around 1100rpm after dialing down the ve table a bit. I think my warm up enrichment is a little too high for what it actually wants to see.

Im going to get the idle dialed in first and get it moving first before i compile all the info into my build.

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[Legacy777]

Good deal and congrats!

Glad you got it figured out.