Yet Another No Spark Thread

[Scruff_]

Banging my head against this one as I'm getting my Touring Wagon back on the road.

When parked it was dead stock w/ 4.11 trans/diff added, it looks like the only wiring done before my ownership was a 12v ignition jumper wire to the starter, in place of the factory black connector. This allowed me to start the car without the clutch being in.

I took the engine out to do head gaskets/reseal and have it back together with new gaskets and hoses all around (give or take 1 or 2), but had to fix a few wiring issues and added a few mods. Initially we found out the starter motor we installed had an internal short, we swapped it out for a good starter and it cranks, sounds like great compression as well once it built oil pressure (sidenote - after getting the engine back in we tried to use the factory starter connector and it wouldn't crank, with the jumper wire it would allow it to crank).

Now with everything wired in it will crank/no spark. Definitely getting fuel, spark plugs are wet, coil is getting power.

Mods/additions that I made are the following -

TD05
Slanty IC
DW200 Fuel Pump
Green MAF
550cc Injectors

EJ20G (U8) ECU w/ robs ignition converter (triple checked wiring, also plugged in factory ECU, still no spark)
ECU Extension Harness (all wiring under dash is on the extension harness, when testing factory ECU I removed this so it was 100% factory wiring except for the starter wire)
Field Simple Fuel Controller Hyper R and AFR Monitor (wired only into extension harness, neither tap or intercept anything ignition related)
Greddy Turbo timer w/proper jumper harness (only required a good ground to body, also removed for testing w/ no changes)

I had to replace the body side knock sensor connector (purchased from iWire), as well as the cam position sensor connector (wires were cracked up to the connector, salvaged new connector off of an extra harness).

Diagnosis I have done so far is as follows, I have yet to see ANY spark whatsoever -

Swapped coil pack, ignitor, cam and crank sensors from working engine(s)
Confirmed cam gears are correct, timing is correct, cam sensor should be reading the reluctor
Swapped U8 ECU for Z5, as well as completely removing the extension harness and turbo timer harness and reinstalling the OEM T-Leg ECU
Added spade connectors to my spliced cam pos sensor harness to swap + and - signal wires (no change)
Checked grounds, everything appears to be solid, all under hood connectors seem to be seated as well
Checked under hood and under dash fuses, all seem to be fine

As far as the ignition goes, only modifications would be the cam pos sensor splicing and robs 4 to 2 converter, which I think I have ruled out since without it/with the factory ECU it still has a no spark condition. I'd also think even with poor splicing for the converter that I would see some sort of spark at one of the plugs. Only CEL code is 45. Could that prevent spark?

Any advice would be appreciated, I'm wondering if I'm somehow missing a ground or if there is a fuse or relay that I'm not accounting for. At this point with the amount of parts I have swapped back and forth and diagnostics I've done, I can only assume it is something really stupid and simple and all of the work I've done up to this point has been missing the actual issue at hand.

[Scruff_]

Update!

Added a few grounds just in case and confirmed everything is good to go, since I was pretty confident there aren't any issues with the coil or ignitor, I backtraced the cam and crank sensors to the ECU connectors, crank sensor wires were confirmed good, but the negative signal and shield wires had resistance between the ECU wires and cam sensor connector (surprisingly, somewhere downwind of my repair; I'm assuming wires have cracked where the cam/crank sensor and knock sensor harnesses meet the main body harness at the firewall).

Ran new shielded wires from the cam sensor into the cabin and used a deutsch connector to connect them into the ECU side of my extension harness, and it fired up first crank!!!

I need to track down a mean oil leak (I'm assuming it is the oil return from the turbo) and it should be back on the road!